slight sluggishness and hesitation when accelerating from idle
#1
slight sluggishness and hesitation when accelerating from idle
Hi All,
I noticed when driving my 99 ES300 this morning there was some slight sluggishness and hesitation when accelerating from idle. It didn't feel like a smooth acceleration. The car has 128K on it and I did the trans. fluid flush like 20K miles ago. One thing *I think* is occurring also is the car is going thru gas faster than usual. Not sure if the 2 issues are interrelated. There are no check engine lights on.
Any suggestions what the problem might be? I was going to do the following:
1. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer
2. Check for cracks in the connected area between air filter and MAF.
3. Clean the throttle body (any recommended cleaning products?)
Also is it safe to drop a fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank? If so which brand/product do you recommend?
Anything else that comes to mind would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I noticed when driving my 99 ES300 this morning there was some slight sluggishness and hesitation when accelerating from idle. It didn't feel like a smooth acceleration. The car has 128K on it and I did the trans. fluid flush like 20K miles ago. One thing *I think* is occurring also is the car is going thru gas faster than usual. Not sure if the 2 issues are interrelated. There are no check engine lights on.
Any suggestions what the problem might be? I was going to do the following:
1. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer
2. Check for cracks in the connected area between air filter and MAF.
3. Clean the throttle body (any recommended cleaning products?)
Also is it safe to drop a fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank? If so which brand/product do you recommend?
Anything else that comes to mind would be appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
They are all reasonable trouble shooting ideas, with the following comments:
Your no 1 option should be the last, and in terms of a fuel injector cleaner, make sure that you get one that says that it's compatible with the Catalytic converter(s)
Your no 1 option should be the last, and in terms of a fuel injector cleaner, make sure that you get one that says that it's compatible with the Catalytic converter(s)
#4
did this just happen today out of the blue or is this something you have been experiencing for some time and its gotten worse?
You can go to autozone and have them connect a OBD reader to the car and see if there are any errors on the O2 sensors or ignition coils.
You can go to autozone and have them connect a OBD reader to the car and see if there are any errors on the O2 sensors or ignition coils.
#5
this happened out of the blue. maybe i'll take the car to autozone and have them run the scanner. i also did a visual inspection of the area from the air filter to throttle body and see some cracks in the attached image (maybe thats the culprit and need to change both the rubber pipes).
#6
Those cracks can definitly cause the symptoms you have. time to get new ones. You could TEMPORERALY close them up with duct tape, till you get new ones.
You may have other ones that will only become apparent once you remove them and examine them more closely.
Phil
You may have other ones that will only become apparent once you remove them and examine them more closely.
Phil
#7
would this be the correct replacement part - http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FbFFMgodIygA2Q?
seems smaller than what the engine currently has.
seems smaller than what the engine currently has.
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#9
would this be the correct replacement part - http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...FbFFMgodIygA2Q?
seems smaller than what the engine currently has.
seems smaller than what the engine currently has.
The one on Parts Geek may however be a generic picture, so who knows.
#10
You could easily check for vacuum leaks.
How To Find A Vacuum Leak - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
How To Find A Vacuum Leak - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube
His type of leak, could also have been caused, not only by deteriorating rubber hoses, but also by weak engine mounts.
Last edited by PFB; 03-07-14 at 01:08 PM.
#12
quick update - i've ordered the parts, but had to take the car for a 5 minute drive and the rpm is now hovering at the "1" line and the engine/car is vibrating at idle. also during the drive the check engine light came on. needless to say, i immediately turned around and went home.
hopefully the parts come in soon...
hopefully the parts come in soon...
#13
As I mentioned in my original reply, you can fix it TEMPORERALY with duct tape until your Parts come in. Your latest symptoms are not fully indicative of cracked air box hoses. So you may have another problem as well. Get the check engine code read.
You should also check your engine mounts. Weak engine mounts could have been the contributing cause to the cracked hoses.
Phil
You should also check your engine mounts. Weak engine mounts could have been the contributing cause to the cracked hoses.
Phil
Last edited by PFB; 03-10-14 at 11:16 AM.
#14
i got the error codes read. they are the following:
p1354
p1153
p1133
also i noticed a softness in the brakes when i was driving. i'm assuming this issue is greater than just the hoses and it will need to go to the shop.
p1354
p1153
p1133
also i noticed a softness in the brakes when i was driving. i'm assuming this issue is greater than just the hoses and it will need to go to the shop.
#15
p1354=VVT Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1)
p1153=Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
p1133=Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Not sure what they all mean together, but these are what they are
p1153=Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
p1133=Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Not sure what they all mean together, but these are what they are