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Recently I smelt burning oil while driving my 97 es300. I had a buddy, who works at a toyota dealership, take it in and have the techs look it over. They gave me a list of what all needs to be done to the car. Majority of it I can do myself, such as struts and axles, but am unsure about a few things.
I was quoted $800 for parts and labor to replace cam seals, crank seals, timing belt, water pump, and necessary gaskets in one go. Is this a fair price? Can I do this myself with basic tools?
I'd say $800 is the going rate for doing all the items you listed. Doing it yourself is doable if you are mechanically inclined.
There are videos out there showing how to replace the timing belt and water pump. Watch it to determine if you can do it. I know the video shows a Lexus SUV but the engine is the same and the procedure is the same. The video shows the use of air tools but regular hand tools can be used. Replacing the seal requires the removal of the cam shaft pulleys which the video does not show.
I did it myself. But, it wasn't my first cam belt job, and I have tools for most jobs.
You will need a few specific tools which do cost money.
You need a camshaft holding tool.
I had this kind.
I wished I spent the extra money to get this one, cos the one I had was pretty crap, it would slip off the cam spoke and I would hurt my knuckles on something metal, and it was weak. It's ruined now after one use.
You need a harmonic balancer puller.
I had something like this.
It's used for this.
But I never used it, because the cam timing had been done before, the harmonic balancer just cam away in my hand.
and you will need an oil seal puller,
there are two main kinds. I used this kind. It was perfect for the job.
This kind will not be usable for the rear cam seal, so you might as well get a decent one in the start and not risk scarring the cam / sealing surface.
Besides the cam holder tool, you need something to hold the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) so you can torque the nut back, I think it's supposed to be around 180 ft-lbs (need a big torque wrench too). I made both of my tools, but I have a welder and all the fab tools.
Getting the seals without scratching the cams is a pain, too. I prefer to drill a small hole in the metal ring of the seal, put a #8 sheet metal screw in and pry it out. But the ES requires a very short stubby right angle drill to get to the back seal. Yup, another tool to buy.
Besides the cam holder tool, you need something to hold the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) so you can torque the nut back, I think it's supposed to be around 180 ft-lbs (need a big torque wrench too) ....
Suddenly the $800 seems like a bargain.
a 1/2 inch impact wrench will do it if it's been done before, and a 3/4 will do it if it hasnt. I'm fairly sure those electric versions won't do the job, but hey my wife says I'm wrong most of the time so take that as you will.
Thanks for the help everyone! I don't have any of those tools... I'm assuming I'm going to need a timing light as well? I'm sure this is something I can do, but I don't have the time or experience. This is my daily driver/only running vehicle at the moment. I'll take a look at the videos posted and see if it can be done over the weekend.
For taking the bolt off, yes. But getting it properly torqued back on, you have to hold the crank still and use a big torque wrench.
.. I just rattle them back on again, using a rattle gun. It's only 120-180nm, that's more than an arm / hand tools can do, but any good mechanic will rattle a main nut for a box of beers my local did.
I'm assuming I'm going to need a timing light as well?
Well, your car is a '97, but isn't it solid state on Lexus by then? My '91 Audi needs one for that, but not my '98 Isuzu/Acura.
If you friend who took it in is a "wrench" and can help you, go for it. But I have to say, $800 for PARTS and LABOR to do all that sounds like a good, deal, and possibly a deal written for "friends and family" so to speak, and especially from a dealership. I'd be seriously tempted to take it.
You can do it for $300-ish yourself; maybe scooch more because I know you are going to find bulged coolant hoses, bad lines, etc. and it's going to take more time and effort. Which is a reason to do it yourself, you can get them and control costs, quality, etc. OTOH, I'd plan on the car being down a good four/five days while you sort through this stuff so if you plan on knocking it out on a weekend, I'd say a '97 you haven't torn down before sounds like a thing that will take some time to make right. I'd line up a spare car for a week from a friend/family and then start on a Friday night with a knowledgeable friend.
a 1/2 inch impact wrench will do it if it's been done before, and a 3/4 will do it if it hasnt. I'm fairly sure those electric versions won't do the job, but hey my wife says I'm wrong most of the time so take that as you will.
I've used the bump method with success when my 1/2 high-end impact wrench would not remove the crankshaft bolt.
I've never had to use my harmonic puller. The harmonic balancer just slid off.
I've used the bump method with success when my 1/2 high-end impact wrench would not remove the crankshaft bolt.
I found if the bolt has never been removed since factory, the bump method doesn't work all the time. Impact is the way to go. You will need a good compressor for that.....
If the bolt has been removed before, it comes off easily with the bump (starter blip) method.
drkandre, sound like you have never done a timing belt job before.
Therefore, since this is your daily vehicle, you shouldn't attempt this job on your own.
You should:
1. Have someone that knows how to do it and let you to watch/learn.
2. Or just have a mechanic replace the seals (and timing belt, crank seal, water pump) for you.
drkandre, sound like you have never done a timing belt job before.
Therefore, since this is your daily vehicle, you shouldn't attempt this job on your own.