shoomsa

Hello all. I am new to the forum and have just passed 93K on my 2004 ES 330. I am about to do the 90K maintenance. I read some threads and found them very helpful. Here is a list of what I am going to get done. Because of the low mileage I hope this car will last me another 100+K miles if I take good care of it. Any opinion or feedback would be greatly appreciated. TIA

1) Transmission Flush (or just change?)

2) Brake Check, bleed and change the fluids

3) Coolant Flush

4) Timing Belt Change

5) Water Pump change (usually done around 120K but because the age of care and already taking out timing belt, get it done)

6) Spake Plug and wiring changed

7) check power streering

8) A/C belt (I dunno if this needs to be adressed)

9) Check hoses.

Chocolate

You're right on the money. Only do a drain and fill on the transmission fluid, not a flush. There is also a transmission filter you can replace but it's not absolutely neccessary. I did replace mine, along with a 3x drain and fill of T-IV sourced off eBay, as at around 106K it was the first time the transmission fluid was ever replaced.

Useful video from our member Speedkar:

pauloil

if you plan to take the plenum off and do the plugs, do the PCV also. we have coil packs, so no wires.

Oro

1) Definitely, I would do a flush. It's easy and the drain/fill changes too little fluid for no real gain. Skip the filter/dropping the pan; never needs it unless clear signs of problems in drained fluid or your pan is leaking.

DIY:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-pics.html

Valvoline Maxlife at Walmart in the gallons. Don't use inferior T-IV or WS. Get 3 gallons and have some for PS.

2) Definitely.

3) Use toyota Red (or pink if you want, Red is more practical IMO). In gallons at carquest, Or Pentofrost A1 at Napa, O'Reilly's, etc. Same stuff. Block taps are easily accessible so drain it, too. If the car does not have Red or Pink in it, then you need to very thoroughly flush it with dH2O!

4) Do not neglect tensioner and idlers. They fail, too (ask me how I know!). Some kits don't have them; make sure to get them.

Here are a couple sites that really helped me when I did this:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/83...ming-belt.html

http://diyservice-en.blogspot.com/20...on-1mz-fe.html

http://www.instructables.com/id/Timi...yota-Lexus-V6/

I would skip the cam seals unless they are obviously leaking. There is more risk of a leak from removing/re-installing than just staying with a clearly good seal IME. The FSM is predicated on a) professional mechanic w/complete set of specialty tooks, and b) someone else paying. Skip this part unless indicated as necessary.

5) Definitely.

6) Allow time. Big job getting back to rear bank. If there, might as well do valve cover gaskets at the same time. Personally, if the front plugs look good and no leaks, I'd skip it for now. These plugs are good for more miles than stated.

7) Put a good synthetic atf in there. (Maxlife left over from AT flush). Here's how:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-needed.html

8) Change a/c and PS belt with high-quality ones like Gatorback or similar. Otherwise very prone to squealing on these cars.

9) Yep, and PCV valve as mentioned.

Other:

1) Consider cleaning ISV and MAF (use caution with MAF and no solvents on it).
2) Check motor mounts and upper torque strut for tearing; they are prone to it and it creates hard shifts as engine rocks. Check RockAuto or Ebay for replacements, not dealer.
3) While air box is off, pull the oil lines to the OCV's and clean/check the filters.
4) Check or change Air filter,
5) At least pull and clean if not change the cabin filter (behind glove box).

When it's all done, switch to Mobil 1 5w-30 HM oil (or Pennz. Platinum, or similar) and go w/7.5k OCI's. Our car loves it and runs like new at 240k, uses almost no oil between changes.

shoomsa

WOW....I really appreciate the tips and feedback!