jbar2016

Hey, so i recently purchased a 97 es300. I have a p0330 knock sensor code, and when it triggers the cel it throws the car into a kind of limp mode, kind of reminded me of a 1.6 sentra i had once...

Anyways i have been looking over this car and first it has autolite platinums in the front 3 cylinders they also look fairly new, i am planning on replacing the plugs in the car with denso tt's, the wires to the rear plugs are in worn shape, and the plastic harness is broken in a few places. The coil closest to the drivers front had a broken wire connection and the plug wire harness was missing causing it to lift up, i replaced it but the one i got may also be bad.
i will list the codes i got before i began working on the car below.

The first time i drove the car after resetting the cel the code popped up within a few hundred feet, tested this twice. I went and got a used oem coil at pick n pull installed it, i noticed a light missfire but the car went a block or 2 and then the code came up when i began to accelerate from a stop sign. I have not replaced the rear plug wires as of yet but i have new ones with a new harness.

P0300
p0301
p0303
p0304
p0305
p0306
p0135
p0330 only one to return...
p1300

Bumbobee

So what is your question?

My knock sensors went and I had to replace them. Used the aftermarket ones from rock auto and they work fine. Some people on this forum have a bad experience with aftermarket knock sensors and will say to use only original ones.

jbar2016

Thanks for the reply,

Well my main question was supposed to be: under certain circumstances has anyone seen the knock sensor code emerge from another issue?

As from my original post:
i have single tip plugs that are known to be unreliable in many different makes of cars, they also show possible signs of a fuel rich mixture.

one of the coils electrical connectors was broken and basically crumpled in my fingers, the same coil had a bad contact to the rear plug wire.

Also, i changed the wires to the rear plugs today and the engine seems to be running smoother now.

ES300NZ

I've read that some people have issues with the harness which traces into their from the side the engine which can cause the knock sensors to trigger. Also, I've read that some people found as their engines got older they made more noise (or just random) in a general sense and that triggered the acoustic knock sensors which can be resolved by moving them to another location one a bracket. You'd have to do your own research on that cos my memory is failing me there.

But, as someone with quite abit of automotive electrical experience, no knock sensor codes tend not to come up with anything other than genuine (very real), knock (preceeding engine failure), or sensor failure/wiring failure.

I had a similar issue, for me it was caused by the fan's not running when the engine was hot, (previous to my ownership) so when we bought the car it had damaged the engine coil plugs, injector seals, and caused the rear (drivers side), head ; to leak at the water bridge (just the seal really). I'd investigate if the engine actually has the fans running, cos I pulled plugs to re-pin into my harness off a earlier model car with much more km's and those were fine. There were other issues with the same car (radiator), and cambelt/water pump, leaking cam seals, .. quite abit actually.

jbar2016

Thanks for the sensor info, i was planning on changing the knock sensors and related wiring, vc gaskets and plugs at the same time.

There is no evidence of a cooling system failure and the fans both work. as for that brittle coil my guess is that whenever the plug clip broke, the coil overheated and caused the igniter code, but i have replaces that coil so its all good now.

The car runs pretty quiet, and sounds strong and healthy, the fuel injectors are a bit noisy but she does have 201,000 on it

ES300NZ

fuel injectors are a tad noisy, it's age, .. no issue, .. I just like that noise actually.

jbar2016

Yea im not worried about the injectors, anyway i installed the new plug wires the other day the car runs and drive much better now, took the car to the garage about 1.3 miles and the cel did not come back until i was leaving, also i have noticed twice now the light coming on during a turn first taking a left from a stop sign and then again taking a right out of the garage parking lot, after being at a complete stop

tomf

It's likely you have a malfunctioning knock sensor. You will have to replace it. Possibly it will get so bad your ES will go into limp mode. Then you will have little choice.

I would not place to much importance on when the light comes on. It's most likely just a coincidence.

jbar2016

Yea i figured it the sensors, i was hoping to simply replace the wires somehow until i can get the cash up to do the entire job, reason i want to try that is everytime i move the cable, it either takes longer or not long at all for the cel to illuminate depending on possition i believe.

jbar2016

Hey so i have an update!

I still plan on replacing the knock sensors if i need to, just dont have the funds yet, anyway yesterday i picked up a set of iridium ngk's and installed them, wish this job was a bit easier but i completed it with no major hiccups. So after i installed the ngk plugs there is an immediate change in the way it idles, revvs higher at first startup, maintains idle very smoothly, before the change it would seem to run good, but the engine was vibrating in park and would get worse when put into drive, and Icrazy if i put the ac on. So it looks like the pugs closest to the knock sensors, the front plug was a standard platinum, the rear plug was loose, able to turn with out using the ratchet, im not sure of the cyl. Numbers but there the 2 closest to the pass fender...
The other 5 plugs were autolight double plats, they were well past there life point
So far i have not been able to take it on an extended test drive but i did drive it further than the cel was letting me before, and as of now the cel remains off.

Today i am going to take it on the highway, and i will update after.