Too much transmission fluid?
#1
Too much transmission fluid?
I have a 92 ES300. When I bought it, six months ago, the transmission fluid was within the acceptable range on the dipstick. There was and is some hard shifting and occasional hesitation in shifting, but I get to and from work with no problems. I wanted to add some slipstop product to the tranny, so I checked the dipstick to see how much room I have. The level is reading about an inch above the max level on the dipstick. Nothing has been added to the transmission since buying this car. The dipstick is the correct one for this car. Has anyone seen this before? Any solutions?
#4
#5
Okay, but what I'm seeing is no change, even when I've hit the freeway at 75mph. It's consistently at one inch past the hot temp limit line on the dipstick. I don't see how this is possible, considering that trans fluid is not seeping out of every gasket.
Last edited by Miles253; 12-05-15 at 09:18 PM.
#6
Sounds like the transmission is over filled, the dipstick will only show fluid so high. Drain some out and check again, but while you're at it drain the pan and re-fill with ~2 liters and check. Then fill until you get the level right.
#7
And you are sure the fluid has had at least a pan drain/fill in the last 50k miles (preferably 30k) with the right fluid?
Last edited by Oro; 12-06-15 at 02:32 AM.
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#8
I'm not sure ANY servicing had been done to this car prior to me buying it. I do know the fluids were clean, although there were some fine metal filings, very little, in the trans fluid. The level was within the normal range, however. And yes, I have moved through the gears as theannual says, before checking the level. I'm wondering if it's somehow possible for too much of the fluid to get trapped in the area of the dipstick, but I am not familiar with the layout of the transmission. Transmissions are intimidating. It's probably best for me to just do the drain and fill, so I can learn a little more about this car. Everything else I have worked on had been previously done wrong.
Are there any other fluid systems in contact with the transmission system?
Are there any other fluid systems in contact with the transmission system?
#9
That is a sound idea; set a baseline with at least some new fluid in it. A good way to judge cleanliness of atf is to do a drop test. Let a drop fall on a piece of white paper towel, and absorb. Examine the dot closely and see if dirt, etc. are retained or migrate to the edges of the drop. You can see dirt a simple look misses when it's in suspension. Even clean fluid, over time, will shear down out of grade. Obviously, WAY slower than engine oil, but it still happens in an AT over enough time.
I would also recommend a little SeaFoam in it for a few days or more before the drain/fill. It can clean up things nicely. If you can't find their "TransTune," or it is much more, just use the regular. Based on the MSDS info, there is no difference, just the red dye.
I GUESS your fluid type is DexIII, verify. Many of us use Valv. MaxLife synthetic from WalMart as a DexIII/VI, T-IV, and WS replacement. Cheap and good in gallon jugs, It is a great fluid. If a change improves the problem, then I would do a 2nd drain/fill 1k miles later to up your new fluid ratio. Then do it every 30k. One jug/$17 should do a single drain/fill. Get two new washers from Napa or somewhere (because you'll likely do a 2nd one soon).
The unit is in fact a transaxle with the front diff included. I think in that year range there may have been a 2nd drain for the diff. unit so research the method here; I have not worked on that year range but have read this elsewhere so heads up.
Use the left over fluid to replace your PS fluid. SeaFoam in there for a week ahead of time is also wise.
PS method:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-needed.html
Simple and effective. You don't need the brass plug on the vertical tubing, just make it long enough to stay above the reservoir.
Where do you live?
I would also recommend a little SeaFoam in it for a few days or more before the drain/fill. It can clean up things nicely. If you can't find their "TransTune," or it is much more, just use the regular. Based on the MSDS info, there is no difference, just the red dye.
I GUESS your fluid type is DexIII, verify. Many of us use Valv. MaxLife synthetic from WalMart as a DexIII/VI, T-IV, and WS replacement. Cheap and good in gallon jugs, It is a great fluid. If a change improves the problem, then I would do a 2nd drain/fill 1k miles later to up your new fluid ratio. Then do it every 30k. One jug/$17 should do a single drain/fill. Get two new washers from Napa or somewhere (because you'll likely do a 2nd one soon).
The unit is in fact a transaxle with the front diff included. I think in that year range there may have been a 2nd drain for the diff. unit so research the method here; I have not worked on that year range but have read this elsewhere so heads up.
Use the left over fluid to replace your PS fluid. SeaFoam in there for a week ahead of time is also wise.
PS method:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-needed.html
Simple and effective. You don't need the brass plug on the vertical tubing, just make it long enough to stay above the reservoir.
Where do you live?
Last edited by Oro; 12-06-15 at 01:27 PM.
#10
I live in the northwest, in Tacoma, WA.
Thank you for this trove of information you have given me, it will help when I do the drain and fill next weekend. There is indeed a front differential that requires separate draining, and I have located both drains.
In the examination process, I also noticed that the oil pan was put on too tight, squishing the gasket and causing leakage. More fun! Time for an oil & filter change, anyway.
I'll update my progress, thanks again.
Thank you for this trove of information you have given me, it will help when I do the drain and fill next weekend. There is indeed a front differential that requires separate draining, and I have located both drains.
In the examination process, I also noticed that the oil pan was put on too tight, squishing the gasket and causing leakage. More fun! Time for an oil & filter change, anyway.
I'll update my progress, thanks again.
#11
The Walmart on Union in Tacoma usually has the gallons of MaxLife ATF; that is where I buy it. If you look on line it says "unavailable," but it is usually on the shelf. Iive in King co. but travel to Gig Harbor 2x a month to visit elderly parents.
The torque spec for drain pan bolts is usually like 9~10 ft/lbs. Clean those surfaces really well scraping them, then acetone to get them totally clean and free. I like to use Permatex Aviation #3 as a gasket dressing. Works well, not pricey. Once you get the pan on and torqued, if you can, leave the car overnight and the unit (engine or tranny) empty. Then re-check the torque the next day before filling. Then again a week later. The gasket will slowly take a set and if you do that, then it should not leak for a very long time.
The torque spec for drain pan bolts is usually like 9~10 ft/lbs. Clean those surfaces really well scraping them, then acetone to get them totally clean and free. I like to use Permatex Aviation #3 as a gasket dressing. Works well, not pricey. Once you get the pan on and torqued, if you can, leave the car overnight and the unit (engine or tranny) empty. Then re-check the torque the next day before filling. Then again a week later. The gasket will slowly take a set and if you do that, then it should not leak for a very long time.
#12
mine seems to be overfilled as well, on a rebuilt tranny :/.. although i do have a leak somewhere, not sure if its the actual bellhousing or the pan itself..
is bellhousing leak common? or is it rear main?
is bellhousing leak common? or is it rear main?
#13
I live in the northwest, in Tacoma, WA.
Thank you for this trove of information you have given me, it will help when I do the drain and fill next weekend. There is indeed a front differential that requires separate draining, and I have located both drains.
In the examination process, I also noticed that the oil pan was put on too tight, squishing the gasket and causing leakage. More fun! Time for an oil & filter change, anyway.
I'll update my progress, thanks again.
Thank you for this trove of information you have given me, it will help when I do the drain and fill next weekend. There is indeed a front differential that requires separate draining, and I have located both drains.
In the examination process, I also noticed that the oil pan was put on too tight, squishing the gasket and causing leakage. More fun! Time for an oil & filter change, anyway.
I'll update my progress, thanks again.
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