03 transmission slipping
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garnb (10-28-21)
#2
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I have an 05 ES330 and have done 4 drain and fills, and notice smooth shifting while letting the car do most of it's acceleration in 3rd gear. why do you think your transmission is slipping?
#3
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while switching gears the rpm will go up then go down, and felt some vibration going into second gear i was told thats how you tell thats you have a transmission issue, im not sure if its true or not
Last edited by haitianb0i; 01-21-16 at 07:46 PM.
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garnb (10-28-21)
#6
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GD iPad just lost my full reply so let me try again:
At that mileage let's assume no service hx. Another data point is in 2003 Toyota started putting WS ATF in cars. I do not know if it went in the ES300. It's not good stuff. Very prone to thermal breakdown.Will start to show symptoms you describe even with mild use at around 100k in 4Runners, etc.
I'd do a flush (don't bother with filter - not needed). MaxLife ATF is well-priced (gallons at WalMart or Autozone) and effective. Here's how:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-pics.html
Change your PS fluid at the same time. Here's how.:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-needed.html
Then do a simpler drain/fill on each system every 30k miles.
At that mileage let's assume no service hx. Another data point is in 2003 Toyota started putting WS ATF in cars. I do not know if it went in the ES300. It's not good stuff. Very prone to thermal breakdown.Will start to show symptoms you describe even with mild use at around 100k in 4Runners, etc.
I'd do a flush (don't bother with filter - not needed). MaxLife ATF is well-priced (gallons at WalMart or Autozone) and effective. Here's how:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...lush-pics.html
Change your PS fluid at the same time. Here's how.:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/10...ce-needed.html
Then do a simpler drain/fill on each system every 30k miles.
#7
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I got to disagree with Oro on that one. WS fluid was for the 5ES. 4ES and older used Toyota Type IV. I recommend against a full transmission flush as it could cause pieces to dislodge and block passages in the transmission. A few fluid drain and fills with driving in between should suffice.
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#8
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I did not say I knew it had WS in it; but it sure does sound like worn fluid. And if it was at some point dealer serviced, it would possibly have had WS put in as it was sometimes done, though it should not have as it is not good for T-IV applications.
A flush as shown WILL NOT dislodge anything; it's not a pressurized machine flush at all (check the link). The pressure for the exchange of fluid is provided by the transmission's own oil pump. If THAT can cause a problem, it would do so in daily driving.
But on a further note, the oft-repeated mantra of flushing causing problems is a bit outdated IMO; there has been a lot of technical discussion of this on BITOG and no one can come up with a genuine example. I've opened a few very high mileage transmissions and if you are at the point you have something that can get in a line or solenoid floating around on the other side of your filter, you're already looking at a rebuild in the very near future.
A flush as shown WILL NOT dislodge anything; it's not a pressurized machine flush at all (check the link). The pressure for the exchange of fluid is provided by the transmission's own oil pump. If THAT can cause a problem, it would do so in daily driving.
But on a further note, the oft-repeated mantra of flushing causing problems is a bit outdated IMO; there has been a lot of technical discussion of this on BITOG and no one can come up with a genuine example. I've opened a few very high mileage transmissions and if you are at the point you have something that can get in a line or solenoid floating around on the other side of your filter, you're already looking at a rebuild in the very near future.
Last edited by Oro; 01-23-16 at 07:52 PM.
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Yeah I would do a flush and refill and while you disconnect the battery so it's fresh. I use Lucas Oil auto trans conditioner every once in a while to keep it smooth too.
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