Cost break for 2 Repair Jobs?
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Just bought 1998 ES 300 and first post! Not mechanically inclined and asking for your thoughts. I am going to have new timing belt and water pump job, likely at Toyota dealership or independent shop specializing in Japanese auto repair. From what I can gather, looks around $800-$1,000 parts and labor for this work. The vehicle also needs front and rear valve cover repair which seems to be in the neighborhood of $600 - $700. My question: Should I get a bit of a price break since the repair work involves a lot of labor disassembling the engine in sort of the same vicinity? Thanks.
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Two big jobs... doesn't hurt to ask for discount. Most shops/dealerships do give discounts. Important thing is to get the job done right and with good parts.
1. Timing belt job - Inspect/change all the related parts like water pump, hydraulic tensioner, pulleys, cam and crank seals (I used Aisin timimg kit & oem seals)
2. Valve cover (Is it leaking or just seeping?) - Here in Austin, I paid around $375 at an independent shop. While you are doing this, easy to get to spark plugs if needed, PCV valve, clean throttle body, iacv etc
How many miles on the car? Previous history of timing belt job or valve cover job done?
1. Timing belt job - Inspect/change all the related parts like water pump, hydraulic tensioner, pulleys, cam and crank seals (I used Aisin timimg kit & oem seals)
2. Valve cover (Is it leaking or just seeping?) - Here in Austin, I paid around $375 at an independent shop. While you are doing this, easy to get to spark plugs if needed, PCV valve, clean throttle body, iacv etc
How many miles on the car? Previous history of timing belt job or valve cover job done?
Last edited by 80es300; 11-15-16 at 08:45 PM.
#5
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I did both jobs myself, I can tell you it's a huge pain in the a$$.
I did the valve cover gaskets first, there's quite a bit of things that need to come off for those lousy gaskets to be changed.
Also, there are a few things that are bound to break and will need to be replaced.
Those electrical connectors for the spark plug coils, the release tabs more than likely will be ready to snap off. Along with the connectors for the Vacuum switching valves.
The plastic wire insulator box that sits under the plastic engine cover should be ready to crumble and disintegrate. Other little hoses may have hardened and snap off as well.
I would recommend a throttle body and IACV cleaning, pcv valve and grommet change, and spark plugs as well.
As for the timing belt, I suggest you change the 2x cam seals 1x crank seal. Your kit should include a timing belt,new waterpump, all new idler pulleys, auto tensioner and new drive belts.
Thermostat is optional and will cost more money, I did it for completeness since my kit included it.
Both jobs are no fun and is worth the money most independent mechanics charge.
If you want to save money you have to do it yourself, but only attempt if you are mechanically inclined, there's lots of good videos showing the whole process.
That crank bolt is on there really tight esp if it was never removed since it was built, you're gonna need access to a impact wrench or may need to use the bump method to get it off.
I did the valve cover gaskets first, there's quite a bit of things that need to come off for those lousy gaskets to be changed.
Also, there are a few things that are bound to break and will need to be replaced.
Those electrical connectors for the spark plug coils, the release tabs more than likely will be ready to snap off. Along with the connectors for the Vacuum switching valves.
The plastic wire insulator box that sits under the plastic engine cover should be ready to crumble and disintegrate. Other little hoses may have hardened and snap off as well.
I would recommend a throttle body and IACV cleaning, pcv valve and grommet change, and spark plugs as well.
As for the timing belt, I suggest you change the 2x cam seals 1x crank seal. Your kit should include a timing belt,new waterpump, all new idler pulleys, auto tensioner and new drive belts.
Thermostat is optional and will cost more money, I did it for completeness since my kit included it.
Both jobs are no fun and is worth the money most independent mechanics charge.
If you want to save money you have to do it yourself, but only attempt if you are mechanically inclined, there's lots of good videos showing the whole process.
That crank bolt is on there really tight esp if it was never removed since it was built, you're gonna need access to a impact wrench or may need to use the bump method to get it off.
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