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#1
Driver School Candidate
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Hey guys, I'm new here and just wanted to say hi to everyone. I own a 1998 Lexus ES 300 that I bought last year for 1700. It has 250K miles on it and the tranny went out on me last month. I am in the process of swapping it out. My dad and I have been struggling to get it out because the butt end of the tranny keeps hitting the chassis. Any suggestions?
#2
Lead Lap
Hey Roddrickd,
I just went through this myself. You have to drop the entire subframe to remove the transmission. You remove the steering rack bolts, and use some string to support the rack.
You'll notice the bottom of the motor isn't flat. I made a wooden cradle to support the engine, and put that on top of four axle stands. Dropped the motor about 10mm all up in the end, it was more practical than leaving on my hoist for a week, and safer. I also wanted to clean up the subframe and paint it. (previously leaking steering rack, wanted to see future leaks).
When you re-install, note there is a filler hole for the final drive unit, and the main transmission (which i did through the dip stick hole), if you fail to fill the final drive unit, it could well fail. (install cv's first or leaky leaky).
The CV's will pop out if you slacken off the cap screws (hex bolts), and give your self about 1 inch travel, then use the shaft like a slide hammer and bang the shaft outwards with the bolts in place but slackened off. They are all held in place with snap rings. (metal ring on shaft inside).
It's probably one of the worse gearbox removal jobs I've had to do, .... bar working on diesel vehicles
I just went through this myself. You have to drop the entire subframe to remove the transmission. You remove the steering rack bolts, and use some string to support the rack.
You'll notice the bottom of the motor isn't flat. I made a wooden cradle to support the engine, and put that on top of four axle stands. Dropped the motor about 10mm all up in the end, it was more practical than leaving on my hoist for a week, and safer. I also wanted to clean up the subframe and paint it. (previously leaking steering rack, wanted to see future leaks).
When you re-install, note there is a filler hole for the final drive unit, and the main transmission (which i did through the dip stick hole), if you fail to fill the final drive unit, it could well fail. (install cv's first or leaky leaky).
The CV's will pop out if you slacken off the cap screws (hex bolts), and give your self about 1 inch travel, then use the shaft like a slide hammer and bang the shaft outwards with the bolts in place but slackened off. They are all held in place with snap rings. (metal ring on shaft inside).
It's probably one of the worse gearbox removal jobs I've had to do, .... bar working on diesel vehicles
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Roddrickd (12-16-16)
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