hooterbif

I have searched the threads and cannot find a clear explanation for the screws/bolts that have to be removed in order to remove the glove box in an 1995 ES300 (although I have seen many threads regarding other models and years).

I can easily see the three screws in a row along the top of the glove box, but removing them does not allow me to pull the glove box out.

Can someone provide advice/pics for this year and model?

Oro

I have a later model, and don't know exactly. But no one else has answered today and I'll try to help. Try one of these two angles:

1) later models have a damper on the side, is yours equipped with one?
2) on similar vintage SC and GS models, I know that once you remove those screws, the trick is just to pull/pry harder. Those have a one-way clip in the track grooves you just need to pull past.

Toyota is fond of that trick (2) when clearance issues are important, like on pillar covers and other trim. I bet it might apply here.

hooterbif

Thanks for the response!

I figured it out.

There are actually five philips-head screws that need to be removed. Three are all in a row at the top of the glove box on the inside. There is another one to the lower left of the glove box. It is a bit hard to see, but you can see it, and access it, without removing any trim. The final screw is a bit more difficult. You need to remove the lower panel (by unsnapping it) and then remove the small rectangular panel just below the glove box (by unsnapping it). Now, that fifth screw will be to the lower right of the glove box.

I also realized that there are three more screws that have to be removed. They are all in a row below the glove box door and can be removed with a 10 mm hex driver. Now, the glove box door will come off and then the glove box interior can be removed.

Now comes the hard part. I am trying to figure out why my heat isn't working quite right. First, the blower does not come on when the first four bars of the heater display are on. The blower only comes on when I increase the heat to five bars. Then, the air is not quite hot. It sort of vacilates between hot and cool. It seems like it is hotter if I rev the engine up to around 4K rpm. I have read some threads on here about checking the servo motors (or the heater resistor). I am trying to do that, but I guess that I now have to remove the Engine Control Unit in order to check the Air Inlet Servomotor. Then, I have to move to the driver side and check the Air Outlet Servomotor and then the Air Mix Servomotor. I can hear the Air Mode Servomotor doing something when I change modes. I can also hear something when I change from outside air to recirculated air.