Jrsygrl8

Hello there, I'm new here and I just got my 2000 Lexus ES300 last week. When I got it, the person I purchased it from was following me to my house and had to stop for gas and got $5 regular gas and the check engine light came on, we thought it was because of the gas cap. Since then, $25 of high octane gas was put in on top of that. I went to go to my mechanic today to have the check engine light turned off and he told me that the code was P0330, Knock Sensor - Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2). Could this have happened because low octane has being put in. When the mechanic turned off the code, I could only drive 4 blocks and the check engine light came back one and it sent out the same code. Can anyone help or have had the same problem? Thank you so much!!!

nsghtbrwry

Nope. The recommended fuel is 91 octane, but these engines run fine on 87 octane. Case in point: the exact same engine in the Avalon and Sienna calls for 87, but says that it will perform better on 91. Beyond 100k knock sensor failure is common on these engines.

The knock sensors have to be replaced, and it's a fairly involved job; requires removal of the plenum and intake manifold. After that, you can access the knock sensors - you should also replace the knock sensor harness and water bypass hose while you're in there. The harness is an additional $27 or so, and the hose is about $15-20. If the hose bursts in the future and dumps water in the Vee, you have to remove the intake and plenum all over again to replace it. Oh yeah, and obviously replace the plenum and intake manifold gaskets.

Do not use aftermarket sensors, these cars are equipped with special sensors resonant at 7.6 kHz. A lot of aftermarket/parts store sensors are not; they are all just microphones, but if they pick up the entire frequency range they'll throw the same codes (even if they are working properly). Official Denso sensors from Toyota/Lexus will be about $170 apiece (you need two), but a lot of people have had luck with fake "Densos" off eBay, which run about $40/pair. YMMV, HTH

Jesterking

I actually just changed out both knock sensors, KS wire harness, bypass hose, on my son's 2000 Lexus ES300. It was a little time consuming, but wasn't all that bad. We got everything back together last night, but I still need to fill with coolant, and buy a new battery for it. But, I trust it'll be just fine when we do crank it over.
OH also, I went out and purchased a Chilton's repair manual for 2000 Toyota Camery/Lexus ES300, which is typically the first tool I buy any times I get a different vehicle.
AS stated above, it is a pretty involved job, however, for me, I cleaned a LOT on the intake plenum and manifold, inside and out, especially the mating surfaces of the intake plenum and manifold, and where they also bolt to the block. On the mating surfaces, I used a small wire brush that had been pretty worn. It worked well for removing any unwanted or obstructing goo on the super smooth mating surfaces. That cleaning took some time, was tedious.
Actually, I have a 2004 ES 330...and my latest "not as planned" fun time is with the driver's side ( I can never remember if Driver's is left or right...shrug?) headlight. wow, that has been soooo much fun....here's the timeline: headlight stops burning. go to walmart (ONLY because of the time, only place open). I look up my car on their little cute kiosk, it gives me bulb number like, maybe it was H7, or something like that...regardless...I purchased two, and when attempting to change them realized...THE BULBS I bought = WRONG part...I look on line, and the interwebs (for the most part) called for a 9006 bulb. WRONG again. by literally matching the bulb to the existing bulb, I finally now had 2 9005 bulbs! I put them in. SAME result...driver's headlight, low beam, non-functioning. I switch the bulbs. Same result. Driver's side= no low beam. I use multimeter to check power to headlight connector = just fine. pleanty of juice. So, now back to the interwebs, where I shall thwart the pitfalls of disinformation and completely incorrect information.
Enter: Ballasts - little miniature computers, more or less, which control the amount of power, flow of electricity, and basically act as a transistor, to regulate the briughtness etc of your headlights.
So, no part store in town (Austin, TX) seems to carry these snazzy doo dads, so back on the interwebs.?
Should prolly go OEM on these, I plan to. the parts run un the 50-100 dollar range. IDK how easy theyre going to be to get changed, I believe they reside on the underside of the whole light assembly. good times. it was JUST a headlight....Just a headlight...