hesitation off the line - then smooth ?
12-12-17, 01:58 PM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
hesitation off the line - then smooth ?
I have a 2000 ES300 w/ 96,000 miles.
I noticed recently that my car does not accelerate off the line smoothly - It will hesitate - sort of a chugging action untill I get to about 4000 rpm and then it accelerates just fine with full power. It's when I first press the gas pedal from a stop and for about 5 or so seconds of acceleration (from 0 to 30 or so) that the car chugs somewhat, but if I keep the gas pedal pressed (as entering an on ramp to the freeway from a stop), and the car rpm's rise over 4000 or so, sudden power kicks in. Car runs smooth at all speeds otherwise. This only happens with the engine under load. If I rev the engine while in park - the engine revs great and sounds great.
Any insights? Fuel filter is brand new (air filter too), No MIL codes or check engine light. rubber intake hoses were replaced. Car idles fine.
Thanks
I noticed recently that my car does not accelerate off the line smoothly - It will hesitate - sort of a chugging action untill I get to about 4000 rpm and then it accelerates just fine with full power. It's when I first press the gas pedal from a stop and for about 5 or so seconds of acceleration (from 0 to 30 or so) that the car chugs somewhat, but if I keep the gas pedal pressed (as entering an on ramp to the freeway from a stop), and the car rpm's rise over 4000 or so, sudden power kicks in. Car runs smooth at all speeds otherwise. This only happens with the engine under load. If I rev the engine while in park - the engine revs great and sounds great.
Any insights? Fuel filter is brand new (air filter too), No MIL codes or check engine light. rubber intake hoses were replaced. Car idles fine.
Thanks
Last edited by mzeitlin; 12-12-17 at 02:03 PM.
12-14-17, 09:28 PM
#2
Pole Position
Any insights? Fuel filter is brand new (air filter too),
All the sensor malfunctions I can think of would throw a code. A VVT OCV failure could cause this a short while but should throw a code before very long.
12-18-17, 07:24 AM
#3
Mine is doing the same exact thing. I too thought it was a fuel filter issue, but my father says no way. Here are my codes after it started doing it daily.
C1201
P0440
P0441
P0446
P0440
P0441
Hope this helps you. Let me know what you figure out and I will as well. I just sold my second vehicle too... Of course the Lexus would start giving me problems just days after selling my other vehicle. Looks like I'll have to rent something when I can get around to a shop that can diagnose this issue correctly and not just guess.
C1201
P0440
P0441
P0446
P0440
P0441
Hope this helps you. Let me know what you figure out and I will as well. I just sold my second vehicle too... Of course the Lexus would start giving me problems just days after selling my other vehicle. Looks like I'll have to rent something when I can get around to a shop that can diagnose this issue correctly and not just guess.
12-18-17, 11:44 AM
#4
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
The problem started suddenly. One day fine - the next day chugging up to about 3500 rpm then smooth. The chugging is not so bad that I can't drive the car - just that if I have to accelerate quickly, I can't depend on the car to jump like it usually did. Once at 4000 rpm - it purrs as acceleration continues. No issue at steady speed or idle. Just from a dead stop or low rpm.
I have no trouble codes. I'm thinking perhaps poor gasoline or injectors and a new batch of gas may clear it up.
(DKinATL : your trouble codes are evaporator related)
I have no trouble codes. I'm thinking perhaps poor gasoline or injectors and a new batch of gas may clear it up.
(DKinATL : your trouble codes are evaporator related)
12-18-17, 01:53 PM
#5
Ignition coils and/or wires
12-18-17, 04:32 PM
#6
Okay, I might save you some time troubleshooting with this post.
Our cars are doing the exact same thing. Today, it began to run really rough at idle speeds after a couple weeks of doing what yours does. On the way home from the office, the check engine light started flashing finally revealing her secrets. You might be slowing having a VVT solenoid failure.
My codes were as follows:
P1354 -- VVT system (Bank 2)
P0300 Random Misfire
P0302 -- Misfire on 2
P0304 -- Misfire on 4
P0306 -- Misfire on 6
I bought a front bank VVT solenoid (right side toward the front of the car), replaced it using a 10mm swivel in 5 minutes in the Auto Zone parking lot just now. Roughness stopped right away and drove 9 miles home with no hesitation, sputter, misfiring whatsoever. I do still have one lingering issue. The car will still not go into overdrive. I'm assuming the codes need to be cleared, but Auto Zone will not do that, naturally.
Will disconnecting the battery resolve this problem, or does anyone know what I can do to get the car to forget about the safe mode or what ever the hell it's called that tells the vehicle to completely forget about overdrive? Thanks so much
Edit -- Scratch that. After cranking the car the second time, the CELlight was off and the car shifts perfectly now.
Our cars are doing the exact same thing. Today, it began to run really rough at idle speeds after a couple weeks of doing what yours does. On the way home from the office, the check engine light started flashing finally revealing her secrets. You might be slowing having a VVT solenoid failure.
My codes were as follows:
P1354 -- VVT system (Bank 2)
P0300 Random Misfire
P0302 -- Misfire on 2
P0304 -- Misfire on 4
P0306 -- Misfire on 6
I bought a front bank VVT solenoid (right side toward the front of the car), replaced it using a 10mm swivel in 5 minutes in the Auto Zone parking lot just now. Roughness stopped right away and drove 9 miles home with no hesitation, sputter, misfiring whatsoever. I do still have one lingering issue. The car will still not go into overdrive. I'm assuming the codes need to be cleared, but Auto Zone will not do that, naturally.
Will disconnecting the battery resolve this problem, or does anyone know what I can do to get the car to forget about the safe mode or what ever the hell it's called that tells the vehicle to completely forget about overdrive? Thanks so much
Edit -- Scratch that. After cranking the car the second time, the CELlight was off and the car shifts perfectly now.
Last edited by DKinATL; 12-18-17 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Edit for solution
12-19-17, 02:43 PM
#7
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Okay, I might save you some time troubleshooting with this post.
Our cars are doing the exact same thing. Today, it began to run really rough at idle speeds after a couple weeks of doing what yours does. On the way home from the office, the check engine light started flashing finally revealing her secrets. You might be slowing having a VVT solenoid failure.
My codes were as follows:
P1354 -- VVT system (Bank 2)
P0300 Random Misfire
P0302 -- Misfire on 2
P0304 -- Misfire on 4
P0306 -- Misfire on 6
I bought a front bank VVT solenoid (right side toward the front of the car), replaced it using a 10mm swivel in 5 minutes in the Auto Zone parking lot just now. Roughness stopped right away and drove 9 miles home with no hesitation, sputter, misfiring whatsoever. I do still have one lingering issue. The car will still not go into overdrive. I'm assuming the codes need to be cleared, but Auto Zone will not do that, naturally.
Will disconnecting the battery resolve this problem, or does anyone know what I can do to get the car to forget about the safe mode or what ever the hell it's called that tells the vehicle to completely forget about overdrive? Thanks so much
Edit -- Scratch that. After cranking the car the second time, the CELlight was off and the car shifts perfectly now.
Our cars are doing the exact same thing. Today, it began to run really rough at idle speeds after a couple weeks of doing what yours does. On the way home from the office, the check engine light started flashing finally revealing her secrets. You might be slowing having a VVT solenoid failure.
My codes were as follows:
P1354 -- VVT system (Bank 2)
P0300 Random Misfire
P0302 -- Misfire on 2
P0304 -- Misfire on 4
P0306 -- Misfire on 6
I bought a front bank VVT solenoid (right side toward the front of the car), replaced it using a 10mm swivel in 5 minutes in the Auto Zone parking lot just now. Roughness stopped right away and drove 9 miles home with no hesitation, sputter, misfiring whatsoever. I do still have one lingering issue. The car will still not go into overdrive. I'm assuming the codes need to be cleared, but Auto Zone will not do that, naturally.
Will disconnecting the battery resolve this problem, or does anyone know what I can do to get the car to forget about the safe mode or what ever the hell it's called that tells the vehicle to completely forget about overdrive? Thanks so much
Edit -- Scratch that. After cranking the car the second time, the CELlight was off and the car shifts perfectly now.
I thought about the VVT, but my engine idles great and then will rev just fine once I get past the low RPM range. I have no engine engine codes and it has been doing this for more than a week now. I did open one of the VVT's and it's spanking clean and moves freely (changed oil every 5,000 miles since new w/ Mobil 1). Spark plugs are young (< 15,000 miles). When I rev the engine from idle while in park, it revs fine - only under load. I hope it's not the transmission - although it shifts normally.
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12-19-17, 10:40 PM
#8
I thought about the VVT, but my engine idles great and then will rev just fine once I get past the low RPM range. I have no engine engine codes and it has been doing this for more than a week now. I did open one of the VVT's and it's spanking clean and moves freely (changed oil every 5,000 miles since new w/ Mobil 1). Spark plugs are young (< 15,000 miles). When I rev the engine from idle while in park, it revs fine - only under load. I hope it's not the transmission - although it shifts normally.
It's a failing solenoid. You heard it hear first (before yours stars to truly run rough, shoots into limp mode removing your OD and makes you panic, of course.)
Keep me updated on which bank starts to misfire.
12-22-17, 06:56 AM
#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Mine did the same thing as yours. Idled great with no issues and would rev superbly after the low RPM issues. I didn't have any codes and we thought about it all. My father has owned a Jap repair shop for 3 decades and kept telling me it was the tranny. Over and over again he said this as when I would take the car to him, he would drive it and it wouldn't do ****. Only happened on trips over 20 miles at first. Then progressed. And progressed.
It's a failing solenoid. You heard it hear first (before yours stars to truly run rough, shoots into limp mode removing your OD and makes you panic, of course.)
Keep me updated on which bank starts to misfire.
It's a failing solenoid. You heard it hear first (before yours stars to truly run rough, shoots into limp mode removing your OD and makes you panic, of course.)
Keep me updated on which bank starts to misfire.
what do you mean by removing OD and panic? When I click OD off, car runs fine - shifts immediately.
12-24-17, 10:29 AM
#10
If you don't want to wait, you can change them both for about $150 in under a half-hour if you just want the car to stop running like this. I wish I would have known what it was before spending hours trying to figure it out. My dad kept telling me it was the tranny going because the car wouldn't ever throw any codes outside of emissions codes from a while back. It will run rougher and rougher as it took mine a few weeks to finally get bad enough to throw the codes listed above.
Good luck! Keep me updated
12-27-17, 06:00 AM
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
VVT Solenoid. When the CEL is finally tripped by this solenoid issue, your car will go into "limp mode" and OD will no longer work and your car will jerk too making you panic thinking it's your transmission. Let us know what your codes are when it finally goes so we can tell you which one to replace.
If you don't want to wait, you can change them both for about $150 in under a half-hour if you just want the car to stop running like this. I wish I would have known what it was before spending hours trying to figure it out. My dad kept telling me it was the tranny going because the car wouldn't ever throw any codes outside of emissions codes from a while back. It will run rougher and rougher as it took mine a few weeks to finally get bad enough to throw the codes listed above.
Good luck! Keep me updated
If you don't want to wait, you can change them both for about $150 in under a half-hour if you just want the car to stop running like this. I wish I would have known what it was before spending hours trying to figure it out. My dad kept telling me it was the tranny going because the car wouldn't ever throw any codes outside of emissions codes from a while back. It will run rougher and rougher as it took mine a few weeks to finally get bad enough to throw the codes listed above.
Good luck! Keep me updated
When I inspected one of the VVT's they are spotless and clean (I have changed my oil very 5,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic).
It may just be the gasoline going bad as this car is not driven much anymore. I added some Shell 89 Octane and it seems the car is running smoother - less jerky on acceleration.
12-27-17, 04:56 PM
#12
Overdrive (OD) works fine. In fact, I have been pushing in the OD button this past week just to check on the transmission shifting and run the engine at a higher rpm on the highway to vary my driving style.
When I inspected one of the VVT's they are spotless and clean (I have changed my oil very 5,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic).
It may just be the gasoline going bad as this car is not driven much anymore. I added some Shell 89 Octane and it seems the car is running smoother - less jerky on acceleration.
When I inspected one of the VVT's they are spotless and clean (I have changed my oil very 5,000 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic).
It may just be the gasoline going bad as this car is not driven much anymore. I added some Shell 89 Octane and it seems the car is running smoother - less jerky on acceleration.
Yes. Your OD works fine. As did mine. Once the car finally trips the codes for the issue, it will automatically go into limp mode. Only then does your OD go out. You may have to manually shift the car too. I did a couple times as it wouldn't downshift shift on its own. Your OD will work fine until the car trips the codes and the CEL starts flashing and your car downshifts out of OD. Before my car finally told me the truth, we tried switching off OD as well when we suspected a failing trans. Also put in 89 octane as I thought it might be the fuel filter / bad gas because I have another daily I drive frequently. Nope. Wasn't that either.
My VVT solenoid appeared clean as well. It was coated in clean oil, after all. Replaced it as that's the direction I was pointed toward here based on my codes and reading old threads. After? Car reset automatically after two key cycles and the CEL went off and OD returned. Been running perfect ever since.
It's one of your VVT solenoids. You heard it here first!
Last edited by DKinATL; 12-27-17 at 05:00 PM.
01-08-18, 03:12 PM
#13
*** Please Read ***
Yes. Your OD works fine. As did mine. Once the car finally trips the codes for the issue, it will automatically go into limp mode. Only then does your OD go out. You may have to manually shift the car too. I did a couple times as it wouldn't downshift shift on its own. Your OD will work fine until the car trips the codes and the CEL starts flashing and your car downshifts out of OD. Before my car finally told me the truth, we tried switching off OD as well when we suspected a failing trans. Also put in 89 octane as I thought it might be the fuel filter / bad gas because I have another daily I drive frequently. Nope. Wasn't that either.
My VVT solenoid appeared clean as well. It was coated in clean oil, after all. Replaced it as that's the direction I was pointed toward here based on my codes and reading old threads. After? Car reset automatically after two key cycles and the CEL went off and OD returned. Been running perfect ever since.
It's one of your VVT solenoids. You heard it here first!
Yes. Your OD works fine. As did mine. Once the car finally trips the codes for the issue, it will automatically go into limp mode. Only then does your OD go out. You may have to manually shift the car too. I did a couple times as it wouldn't downshift shift on its own. Your OD will work fine until the car trips the codes and the CEL starts flashing and your car downshifts out of OD. Before my car finally told me the truth, we tried switching off OD as well when we suspected a failing trans. Also put in 89 octane as I thought it might be the fuel filter / bad gas because I have another daily I drive frequently. Nope. Wasn't that either.
My VVT solenoid appeared clean as well. It was coated in clean oil, after all. Replaced it as that's the direction I was pointed toward here based on my codes and reading old threads. After? Car reset automatically after two key cycles and the CEL went off and OD returned. Been running perfect ever since.
It's one of your VVT solenoids. You heard it here first!
I truly appreciate the update on this. I have three misfire codes as well even after a couple coils were replaced, which subsequently posted the same misfire messages.
I did not see a VVT code like you did. I wonder if replacing this vvt sensor would still be worth a shot. The car definitely has intermittent issues like you describe having.
I am replying because I thought I"d ask where your sensor was. My car is a 2000 ES. I will look in the mean time.
Thanks
01-09-18, 10:43 AM
#14
Hey don't know if this is any help, but taking BOTH battery wires off the battery posts and holding them together for 60 seconds will completely clear everything.... very glad to hear it wasn't anything catastrophic
01-29-18, 11:55 AM
#15
Hey there DKinATL,
I truly appreciate the update on this. I have three misfire codes as well even after a couple coils were replaced, which subsequently posted the same misfire messages.
I did not see a VVT code like you did. I wonder if replacing this vvt sensor would still be worth a shot. The car definitely has intermittent issues like you describe having.
I am replying because I thought I"d ask where your sensor was. My car is a 2000 ES. I will look in the mean time.
Thanks
I truly appreciate the update on this. I have three misfire codes as well even after a couple coils were replaced, which subsequently posted the same misfire messages.
I did not see a VVT code like you did. I wonder if replacing this vvt sensor would still be worth a shot. The car definitely has intermittent issues like you describe having.
I am replying because I thought I"d ask where your sensor was. My car is a 2000 ES. I will look in the mean time.
Thanks
Curious if the OP has an update?
Last edited by DKinATL; 01-30-18 at 06:18 PM.