my new system
#16
Lexus Champion
George, you are getting a voltage pop, your amp is picking up the jolt of electricity going into your amp and sending it to the subs. my switch kinda stops this problem, but not totally, i don't even notice it anymore.
a capacitor might do it, get a 1 farad capacitor so the electricity runs to that first instead of to your amp. capacitors will also keep your battery from being drained for a second when your bass hits really hard.
capacitors are about 50-70 dollars
a capacitor might do it, get a 1 farad capacitor so the electricity runs to that first instead of to your amp. capacitors will also keep your battery from being drained for a second when your bass hits really hard.
capacitors are about 50-70 dollars
#17
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i have the same problem with mine, when i turn on my car it makes a thump, the loudness depends on how high my bass switch is turned when i get into the car. i can't turn off my radio though, because the amp picks up a constant signal, a STRONG signal, and my subs don't stop hittin until i turn the radio on... it's not a huge deal because my radio is always on. but how can we stop the thump when we start our cars???
#18
Lexus Champion
Alright guys, you need switches. I just went out to my car, turned on my radio, my interior speakers popped (because they come on with the radio/which I turn off when I turn off my car). I turned on my subs and there was no pop at all, off and on, off and on, no popping. Then I turned off my radio with the trunk closed... and left the amp on, no signal being bounced around in my trunk, no loud bass signal. Guys, I'm pretty sure that installing a switch in my power line is what did it. All I have is a small metal switch that is under my dash that turns on and off power to my subs amplifier. I have no popping and no loud bass with the radio off. And this way I can leave my radio off if I want... There are times when I don't want it on
#19
Originally posted by EGainer
George, you are getting a voltage pop, your amp is picking up the jolt of electricity going into your amp and sending it to the subs. my switch kinda stops this problem, but not totally, i don't even notice it anymore.
a capacitor might do it, get a 1 farad capacitor so the electricity runs to that first instead of to your amp. capacitors will also keep your battery from being drained for a second when your bass hits really hard.
capacitors are about 50-70 dollars
George, you are getting a voltage pop, your amp is picking up the jolt of electricity going into your amp and sending it to the subs. my switch kinda stops this problem, but not totally, i don't even notice it anymore.
a capacitor might do it, get a 1 farad capacitor so the electricity runs to that first instead of to your amp. capacitors will also keep your battery from being drained for a second when your bass hits really hard.
capacitors are about 50-70 dollars
#20
Lexus Champion
Ha, I guess a capacitor isn't gonna do it. lol. well I'm still sticking with my switch idea, i mean it's 3-4$ to get the switch and put it in. And you will have the ability to turn on and off your subs. I don't get that popping sound anymore so I don't know if it's the switch or not. But I do remember getting it at one point...
#21
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here guys, i found this on Rockford Fosgate's tech support online:
"Question
What causes turn on / off pops and thumps and how can I get rid of them?
Answer
When a car audio system utilizes additional components such as amplifiers and processors, those devices are turned on and off automatically with a signal from the source unit (known as remote turn-on).
Occasionally, those components may have built in delays that turn them on and off at different intervals. This is especially common when mixing different brands of components into a single system. These different turn on/off intervals may cause an audible "pop" or "thump" when turning the system on or off.
For example, if the amplifier in a system turns on before a crossover, the crossover may send a small transient signal to the amplifier. Because the amplifier is already on, it amplifies the transient signal causing the turn-on noise.
There are different methods to cure a turn-on noise, including devices that "delay" the turn-on of the amplifier until after the other components have come on and "settled down". These delay turn-on devices are available from most car audio accessory suppliers.
To cure a noise at turn-off, the amplifier must shut off before the other components in the system. To do this, you must delay the turn-off of the other components until after the amplifier shuts off.
This sounds like a lot of work to figure out, and it can be frustrating to get rid of such noises, but patience and a little "stick-to-it-iveness" will help you to find the source of your trouble and fix it. See your local Rockford Fosgate dealer for additional assistance if you run into trouble."
so EGainer, u are right. the switch u have acts as the delay device that the article talks about, that's why u don't get the jolt of energy when u turn on ur car. great job. i got another question, does the switch have to be on the power line? or can i install on on the remote turn-on wire? oh, can u should us a pic of ur switch and it's location. thanx again for ur help!!
"Question
What causes turn on / off pops and thumps and how can I get rid of them?
Answer
When a car audio system utilizes additional components such as amplifiers and processors, those devices are turned on and off automatically with a signal from the source unit (known as remote turn-on).
Occasionally, those components may have built in delays that turn them on and off at different intervals. This is especially common when mixing different brands of components into a single system. These different turn on/off intervals may cause an audible "pop" or "thump" when turning the system on or off.
For example, if the amplifier in a system turns on before a crossover, the crossover may send a small transient signal to the amplifier. Because the amplifier is already on, it amplifies the transient signal causing the turn-on noise.
There are different methods to cure a turn-on noise, including devices that "delay" the turn-on of the amplifier until after the other components have come on and "settled down". These delay turn-on devices are available from most car audio accessory suppliers.
To cure a noise at turn-off, the amplifier must shut off before the other components in the system. To do this, you must delay the turn-off of the other components until after the amplifier shuts off.
This sounds like a lot of work to figure out, and it can be frustrating to get rid of such noises, but patience and a little "stick-to-it-iveness" will help you to find the source of your trouble and fix it. See your local Rockford Fosgate dealer for additional assistance if you run into trouble."
so EGainer, u are right. the switch u have acts as the delay device that the article talks about, that's why u don't get the jolt of energy when u turn on ur car. great job. i got another question, does the switch have to be on the power line? or can i install on on the remote turn-on wire? oh, can u should us a pic of ur switch and it's location. thanx again for ur help!!
#23
Instructor
remote turn on delays
http://www.installationproducts.com/type in search remote turn on delay and u will see what the guys are talking about , I used them all the time when im using stock unit that don't have the remote wire and the only way is when you turn on the ignition. I hope it helps u guys.guys by the way u can order from here but is only for Installer. but Im sure you guys can get this at your regular stereo shop
#24
I had the same problem... I installed an on/off switch on the remote line and it works fine. It is a pain in the *** though. I was told in order to stop this you must change the stock amp located under the passenger seat. The stock amps remote line is not enough volts to power an aftermarket amp, therefore you must use an igntion controlled wire for your remote turn on wire. Unfortunatly, using such a wire brings us to our "feedback" problem. You get this "feedback" because the amps on and the radios not (obviously). I am going to look into one of those delay moduals though. I'll let you guys know how things turn out.
PS. A capacitor has nothing to do with this and will not fix it. However, if you have a powerful system you should have one anyway. Not only does it help save your alternator, but it produces cleaner, harder bass notes.
PS. A capacitor has nothing to do with this and will not fix it. However, if you have a powerful system you should have one anyway. Not only does it help save your alternator, but it produces cleaner, harder bass notes.
Last edited by zutoo; 07-04-03 at 08:32 AM.
#25
Ok, I just checked out the site posted above. If you are getting a "thump" when you start the car a delay timer will stop this. You still will not be able to turn your radio off without gettting "feedback" though. Ever since I installed the on/off switch I no longer get the "thump" when I start the car though. Ever since I installed the switch, even if I leave the switch and the radio on when I leave the car, I don't get the "thump" anymore when I start the car. So if your having problems, try a switch before you try anything else. It seems to be the cheapest alternative to the "feedback/thump" problem. If you don't want a switch you can always change your stock headunit and this should correct the problem.
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