can I use a gasket sealant on the intake manifold?
#2
First, how would an intake manifold gasket go bad by itself? Did you remove the intake but didn't replace the gasket when putting it back in? 2nd, are you talking about the top or the lower (2 pieces) intake manifold gaskets?
#3
#4
The original problem was started with error codes PO 325 and PO330. Both are knock sensors which when bad. In getting to the knock sensors, removal of the intake manifold is necessary. The knock sensors were replaced with new ones along with all new gaskets, hoses, solenoids, and many other new parts that were safe to replaced since the job getting to the knock sensors was so labor intensive and time consuming. Valve cover gaskets and major tune up were also done. The knock sensors and intake gaskets have been replaced twice and the overheating has been going on "off and on" since last October 2017. I am extremely puzzled about where the leakage is. I have changed hoses, intake gaskets, check other overheating causes such as water pump, thermostat (which is new also), heater core, etc. and can't pin point or verify the cause of the overheating. It has been diagnosed by 2 professional mechanic shops and repaired twice by two mechanic shops and the problem won't go away. So I did all the labor myself this time to see for my self if all new parts were replaced. When I got to the gaskets, and I saw no sealant on them, I wondered if that had been left off and maybe should have been used and that would explain why the car keeps loosing fluid and evenly overheat. Some have guest that it might be the head gasket causing the leak, but I do not have the symthoms of a head gasket leak. Anyone have any ideas as to what I need to do next or which way I should proceed in solving this overheating problem?
#5
If you don't find wetness or puddle of coolant under the car, it must have been leaked into the engine. But have you determined that the overheating is due to loss of coolant? At what rate is the coolant going down? Have you checked thermostat? To me, you should never use RTV on intake gaskets, also make sure you use the genuine toyota gaskets and the bolts around the lower intake block are torqued to spec and tightening pattern is followed.
The original problem was started with error codes PO 325 and PO330. Both are knock sensors which when bad. In getting to the knock sensors, removal of the intake manifold is necessary. The knock sensors were replaced with new ones along with all new gaskets, hoses, solenoids, and many other new parts that were safe to replaced since the job getting to the knock sensors was so labor intensive and time consuming. Valve cover gaskets and major tune up were also done. The knock sensors and intake gaskets have been replaced twice and the overheating has been going on "off and on" since last October 2017. I am extremely puzzled about where the leakage is. I have changed hoses, intake gaskets, check other overheating causes such as water pump, thermostat (which is new also), heater core, etc. and can't pin point or verify the cause of the overheating. It has been diagnosed by 2 professional mechanic shops and repaired twice by two mechanic shops and the problem won't go away. So I did all the labor myself this time to see for my self if all new parts were replaced. When I got to the gaskets, and I saw no sealant on them, I wondered if that had been left off and maybe should have been used and that would explain why the car keeps loosing fluid and evenly overheat. Some have guest that it might be the head gasket causing the leak, but I do not have the symthoms of a head gasket leak. Anyone have any ideas as to what I need to do next or which way I should proceed in solving this overheating problem?
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ToyotaFanz (02-09-18)
#8
Can overheating be caused by faulty intake gaskets?
If you don't find wetness or puddle of coolant under the car, it must have been leaked into the engine. But have you determined that the overheating is due to loss of coolant? At what rate is the coolant going down? Have you checked thermostat? To me, you should never use RTV on intake gaskets, also make sure you use the genuine toyota gaskets and the bolts around the lower intake block are torqued to spec and tightening pattern is followed.
#9
#11
I am new to this site, but I am going to try to attach some pics . . .
As you can see in one of the pics, I socket (12mm) and ratchet extension fell underneath the coolant bypass hose when I was disassembling the intake manifold. the only way to get it out was removal of the hose so I could get to it.
As you can see in one of the pics, I socket (12mm) and ratchet extension fell underneath the coolant bypass hose when I was disassembling the intake manifold. the only way to get it out was removal of the hose so I could get to it.
#12
Don't use Fel-pro, stay with OEM, also the torque and torque sequence are important, it should be a in a crisscross pattern starting from the center, also re-torque in 2 hours because the sealing material will bed in. Make sure the center hose connections (in one of your pictures) are tight with no leaks.
I am new to this site, but I am going to try to attach some pics . . .
As you can see in one of the pics, I socket (12mm) and ratchet extension fell underneath the coolant bypass hose when I was disassembling the intake manifold. the only way to get it out was removal of the hose so I could get to it.
As you can see in one of the pics, I socket (12mm) and ratchet extension fell underneath the coolant bypass hose when I was disassembling the intake manifold. the only way to get it out was removal of the hose so I could get to it.
#15
Also I want everybody to know, I tried the over the counter liquid sealant from Auto Zone. Blue devil, I tried twice and Bar's Leak I have tried once. They both worked, but only temporary. They never permanently fixed the problem.