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Seems like changing the fuel filter solved my issue, after taking out the old, I use a air hose to blow out all the gunk and it was literally black gas and a lot of debris. I'm guessing that the fuel filter had to get filled up, which is why the car was hesitating to stay running.
Welp, I just had more codes pop up onto my car.
Engine:
P1656 OCV Bank 1
P1663 OCV Bank 2
This caused my car to jerk, if i push the gas it would act normally. Had this feeling a few times before.
Transmission:
P1760 Linear Solenoid for Line Pressure Control Circuit Malfunction
Emissions:
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Malfunction
It sounds like your car was poorly maintained and/or sat around for too long. Old fluids, carbon buildup, sludge, etc. could all be a factor in your engine's performance.
If I recall correctly, there are some filters you can clean out for the OCVs, do a quick search for it on the forum (my 98 doesn't have them, so I'm not familiar).
Since you saw some nasty gas in the lines, I would recommend inspecting the gas tank as well. You said you replaced the pump twice, did you notice any gunk in there. Was the filter sock replaced along with the pump?
How old is the gas in your car?
It sounds like your car was poorly maintained and/or sat around for too long. Old fluids, carbon buildup, sludge, etc. could all be a factor in your engine's performance.
If I recall correctly, there are some filters you can clean out for the OCVs, do a quick search for it on the forum (my 98 doesn't have them, so I'm not familiar).
Since you saw some nasty gas in the lines, I would recommend inspecting the gas tank as well. You said you replaced the pump twice, did you notice any gunk in there. Was the filter sock replaced along with the pump?
How old is the gas in your car?
Maintenance by me is pretty consistent with oil changes and fluids, timing belt/waterpump, struts/controlarms. The previous owner was a crap, and did neglect the car. Rear shock coil was broken, literally. It did sit for about a month after this cutting off issue started, but that fuel filter was dirty, the fuel sock was replaced with the fuel pumps, but now it seems like the fuel filter was the consistent cause of the car cutting off not the fuel pump. I'm not sure about oil sludge/carbon buildup. This would could only be seen from dropping the oil pan and the intake manifold/cylinder heads?
Gas is pretty new, I did add a can of SeaFoam to it right after the new fuel filter. There wasn't add gunk in the gas tank, when we change the pumps.
I have looked into the OCV valves, and will see if they are clogged.
Doing some research, I've come across the Charcoal canister being an issue. Specifically when the purge and vent solenoids are giving error codes. Does this seem reasonable?
Will be digging into the OCV's and see whats going on with those.
Did you consider the possibility of a partially blocked catalytic converter or another exhaust system component?
What pressure should the exhaust gas be at? I ordered a cat pressure and wanted to understand regarding this so I can be ready.
The car does not seem to be able to continue running, from what I have noticed beyond the warming temperature. I watched a video that explained temperature can increase resistance in a fuel injector, causing it to not fire, and shutting off the car completely. Even though the car runs initially at cold.
This seems plausible. I know have to figure out if its a whole bank of fuel injectors that are going bad. This seems odd now to think about, since I have removed a fuel injector connector while the car was running and it continues to run, just with hesitation. In this case how many would have to be not firing for a car to stall?
So, I just replaced the charcoal vapor canister, and took the car outside to then change the OCV valves solenoids. I decided to touch a screwdriver to the injectors to see if they were pinging. As I was checking the injectors hidden by the firewall, the screwdriver hit the ground wire+another wire, that is connected to the intake manifold on the passenger rear side. Car then turned off. I didn't notice this and thought hmm thats weird.
Turned the car back on and then went back and wiggled that ground wire, and it shut off the car.
seems like this wire was loose the whole time, causing all these car shut-offs on highways and stuff. I just re-tightened that wire, and the car has been running for the last 15 minutes fine. Still getting the transmission solenoid codes, but otherwise no issues.
All this time people have been telling me there's a loose ground somewhere, and I just wasn't looking in the right spot . I am now confused as to why that ground was loose. I am trying to remember if I did any work on the passenger engine side.
I will now replace the OCV solenoids because I already have them. And now I'm getting the A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank2Sensor1) code. I remember changing this oxygen sensor, few months ago, not sure whats going on now. Any suggestions?
You should check other ground lugs the engine should still run with that one disconnected. Disclaimer: I have not actually tested this. Congrats on finding the problem or at least part of it.
You should check other ground lugs the engine should still run with that one disconnected. Disclaimer: I have actually tested this. Congrats on finding the problem or at least part of it.
Theres two wires that share that ground, one wire from the body to the manifold and another wire that gets piggy-tailed into the main wiring harness bundle.
That ground seems to control the intake manifold and maybe the injectors right? Car still running, and now I'm looking into the B2S1 oxygen sensor.
Looking up ground location points and will check them all.
Theres two wires that share that ground, one wire from the body to the manifold and another wire that gets piggy-tailed into the main wiring harness bundle.
That ground seems to control the intake manifold and maybe the injectors right?
Could be. On some Toyota models there is a ground lug on the bottom of the intake (hard to see) if that fails the engine won't run.
Interestingly, I now have P1135 and P1155 A/F sensor codes. These two oxygen sensor I have replaced before. Any idea what could be causing this? Both of these are before the Cats, so it must be a bad sensor? They are both giving fixed 3.29V readings.
Hey bud, I think its more grounds. Seems like maybe someone took the upper intake off and didn't secure the grounds back.
Anyways check the back of your intake manifold, there is another ground wire that secures to the back of the intake facing the firewall, it apparently grounds the heater circuits. I had this problem when I removed and replaced my intake to swap a knock sensor. (ref: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...135-p1155.html). Its tight back there but try to clean the surface and the terminal with a wire brush, the connection needs to be good, those heater circuits are sensitive.
Its interesting how when you get a ton of different codes attacking each one of them individually is often the wrong strategy, something so general as a ground loose causes all sorts of havoc.
07-29-18, 06:52 PM
seems like this wire was loose the whole time, causing all these car shut-offs on highways and stuff. I just re-tightened that wire, and the car has been running for the last 15 minutes fine. Still getting the transmission solenoid codes, but otherwise no issues.
. I am now confused as to why that ground was loose. I am trying to remember if I did any work on the passenger engine side.
