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A clarification I wrote I have actually tested this (running with no ground on the plenum) I meant to write I have NOT actually tested this sorry for the error. Thanks for the info Power6 on the ground on the back of the manifold looks like Toyota is still doing this.
Hey bud, I think its more grounds. Seems like maybe someone took the upper intake off and didn't secure the grounds back.
Anyways check the back of your intake manifold, there is another ground wire that secures to the back of the intake facing the firewall, it apparently grounds the heater circuits. I had this problem when I removed and replaced my intake to swap a knock sensor. (ref: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...135-p1155.html). Its tight back there but try to clean the surface and the terminal with a wire brush, the connection needs to be good, those heater circuits are sensitive.
Its interesting how when you get a ton of different codes attacking each one of them individually is often the wrong strategy, something so general as a ground loose causes all sorts of havoc.
Could you clarify where that extra ground cable is?
After digging around, I noticed a wire that splits off from the main harness. There is a support bracket on both sides of the intake. (Standing infront of the car) On the passenger side, there is another ground wire, and I felt it wiggle around. . Another loose ground. Very interesting.
I went to get emissions tested, and they said I have to drive it for about a week, since the car does its own tests and they find the result from it.
I just scanned my car and it has P0440 code for PURGE VSV. I just changed the charcoal canister(had new solenoids on it)
Could this just be from the resting gases in the gas tank? I did add a can of seafoam for cleaning on the last fill-up.
Upon clicking the thumbs down icon:
This may not make you happy and may not cure your particular issue, but I had a persistent P0440 I just cured. After following the diagnostics (vacuum test, etc.) the dx was to change the canister. Being both frugal and thorough, I tried another cheap trick first.
I took off the gas cap, cleaned it with alcohol very thoroughly. I then applied my go-to grease for brakes, electrics, rubber, etc. - Sil-Glyde.
No more P0440. Had I changed the canister, it *Might* have gone away with the fresh solenoid valves (actually I would have replaced the valves, not the canister - much cheaper and easier than whole canister), or it might have stayed given another weak place in the system (cap seal). Then again, everything tested OK per the manual.
Normally my P0440 was re-occurring every 10 days or so after a reset. It has now been a month and no reappearance. I was going to wait another month to verify before making a general post about this trick.
Normally my P0440 was re-occurring every 10 days or so after a reset. It has now been a month and no reappearance. I was going to wait another month to verify before making a general post about this trick.
Thanks for the reply Oro.
I went with changing the WHOLE canister because the solenoids themselves were 50-80 dollars each. $20+ and i got a whole assembly.
I used the EVAP CHECK test on techstream and it mentioned that the pressure was the same as atmospheric. That means a leak in the gas tank side and not the canister side? I will check again.
I will try that gas cap trick. Just washed the gas cap with electronic cleaning alcohol. Don't have any proper rubber lubricating grease at the moment.
Last edited by wmj259; 08-24-18 at 05:19 PM.
Reason: spelling=bold
This reminds me, I did notice what seemed to be a vacuum line that attaches to a cylindrical object between the radiator and engine on the driver side. Is that for what I suppose to be a active dynamic motor mount? I dont think that currently there is a vacuum assisted motor mount installed ? Could that be causing this "leak"?
That software you're using is called Techstream? The info you're getting out of it looks very sophisticated. Would you mind elaborating on how it works and what you need to hook up to the car?