rear caliper won't float
06-06-18 | 07:11 PM
#1
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From: VA
rear caliper won't float
2001 lexus es300. Removed rear brake pads and on right side couldn't get caliper back over new pads. That's when I noticed the caliper wasn't floating in and out. Pivots fine. Doesn't feel like it is stuck, but like it is locked.
06-06-18 | 07:41 PM
#2
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From: Alberta
If you can pivot the caliper on the slide pin then you'd think it would move in and out. If you free up the brake line from the strut you should be able to remove the caliper off the slide pin completely, try that. Have you tried compressing the caliper piston to make sure it moves freely? Warning: if you do this make sure you pump the brakes before you drive the car otherwise you won't have brakes initially.
06-06-18 | 08:03 PM
#3
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I used a clamp to push the piston in some and then was able to push it in more with my hand. So it moves freely. Caliper pivots fine and seems to have free play when I try to move it around. Can't believe it is seized. More like there is a position where there is something obstructing it from going in. Pads were worn almost to backing plate. Is it possible the caliper moved so far due to the worn pads that it went past something that would prevent it from moving so far that it slide out?
06-06-18 | 08:09 PM
#4
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Maybe. I've worked on cars where the rear slide pins were badly seized I had to hammer on the caliper only way I could get it off.
06-06-18 | 08:32 PM
#5
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I put a big clamp on it and it didn't seem to move at all. That is why I say it seems like something has locked it from moving, not that it is stuck. Never have run into this before. I put penetrating oil on it and will let it soak over night and see if there is any difference in the morning. Starting to look like I need to get a caliper and bracket since I don't think I can separate them.
06-06-18 | 08:33 PM
#6
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I put a big clamp on it and it didn't seem to move at all. That is why I say it seems like something has locked it from moving, not that it is stuck. Never have run into this before. I put penetrating oil on it and will let it soak over night and see if there is any difference in the morning. Starting to look like I need to get a caliper and bracket since I don't think I can separate them.
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06-06-18 | 11:00 PM
#8
Pole Position
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From: wa
Others have said the slide pins on these calipers are prone to seizing because of poor hat design (the rubber bellows that protects the pin body). You can get new pins cheaply, but also clean out the bore they slide in - spray with carb cleaner and scrub in there with a pipe cleaner, etc. When you put them back in, use a good coating of Sil-Glyde or similar silicone grease. That is great for brakes, electrical connectors, door gaskets/hoses - very useful stuff.
Running down a caliper bracket may not be cheap or easy. If the penetrant doesn’t work, try a propane torch and then pulling/hammering them. Very, very few seized items won’t yield to the almighty torch...
Running down a caliper bracket may not be cheap or easy. If the penetrant doesn’t work, try a propane torch and then pulling/hammering them. Very, very few seized items won’t yield to the almighty torch...
06-06-18 | 11:13 PM
#9
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06-07-18 | 01:34 AM
#10
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From: pa
Yeah, for some reason Lexus/Toyota caliper pins are prone to seizing even when rubber boots are ok. I finally learned to service my calipers every 2-3 years when I replace brake fluid. Have not seen this on the Acura, Honda and Subaru vehicles I work on.
06-07-18 | 06:43 AM
#11
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Thanks for all of the info. I was able to get the caliper to move enough to get the new pads in. Used a big clamp. Will drive it so e and see if the cooler is sticking. I think I will need to replace something. Local parts place has caliper and bracket for $70 + core. If only I could get upper bracket bolt loose. Tough to get old 😕
06-07-18 | 07:19 AM
#12
Pole Position
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From: wa
Harbor Freight has decent 1/2” x 18” breaker bars for $10 after coupon usually. Critically, they have nice round handles on them vs. the flat, palm-friendly extensions on ratchets. Then go to Home Depot or Ace and get a 24” section of steel pipe that fits on the end. You know have a variable-length 18” to 3’ breaker bar that should remove any bolt or nut on the car, including the wheel hub nut and the crank shaft, for less than $20. If a nut or bolt won’t let go with that, a penetrant soak or heat will certainly get it. AeroKroil is the best penetrant and best applied well ahead of time (days). In comparison, PB and Liquid Wrench are just no where near as effective.
06-07-18 | 07:51 AM
#13
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From: NY
Glad you were able to install the new pads. Regarding the difficulty pushing the piston back, did you loosen the cap on the master cylinder while try to compress the piston? That will help allow fluid to flow back into the braking system while compressing the piston.
06-07-18 | 10:42 AM
#14
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Piston was never a problem to move back in. I did use a ratchet with a wrench on the end for more leverage. Used this same combination to get bracket bolts off rear calipers on my Suburban a couple of weeks ago. I'll check to see how it is working after I drive it some and if caliper is still not moving well, I will try removing and replacing slide pins. Any idea how hard it will be to remove the slide pin?
06-07-18 | 04:25 PM
#15
Pole Position
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From: wa
They should just slide out if not stuck.
A quick test is after driving, go around and put your hand on the wheel center. A sticking piston or seized slide pins will drag the pads and generate a lot of heat. The effected wheel will be noticeably hotter than the properly working one(s).
A quick test is after driving, go around and put your hand on the wheel center. A sticking piston or seized slide pins will drag the pads and generate a lot of heat. The effected wheel will be noticeably hotter than the properly working one(s).