castrol gtx
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harrisbaig (09-12-18)
#3
If you run it in 10w30 and run it reasonable intervals, it will be OK. But, as he said, it is not the best choice in this engine. I ran that for 5k miles as a “flush” oil a year or two ago. There is good evidence sticking with one oil is best, but also good evidence running one interval of a different oil after several of the same is also good.
Personally I use Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage for 7.5k intervals. Robust 30 weight that resists shearing that leads to sludge (a 10w30 will always have a big edge for that vs. a 5w30), a quality additive package. Cheap after rebate from Walmart. 300k miles and the car runs like new and uses no oil. I like it. The Mobil 1 can be had cheaper than the GTX, so there is no reason to let price be a factor.
Personally I use Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage for 7.5k intervals. Robust 30 weight that resists shearing that leads to sludge (a 10w30 will always have a big edge for that vs. a 5w30), a quality additive package. Cheap after rebate from Walmart. 300k miles and the car runs like new and uses no oil. I like it. The Mobil 1 can be had cheaper than the GTX, so there is no reason to let price be a factor.
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harrisbaig (09-12-18)
#4
To add, Mobil usually offers semi annual rebate promotions. Here's the link to the current one which expires 10/31.
https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...tor-oil-coupon
https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...tor-oil-coupon
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harrisbaig (09-13-18)
#5
To add, Mobil usually offers semi annual rebate promotions. Here's the link to the current one which expires 10/31.
https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...tor-oil-coupon
https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...tor-oil-coupon
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harrisbaig (09-13-18)
#7
On a related note, Fram Xg3614 filters are amazing filters and Fram recommends them out to 20k or 25k miles of use. I have read much about them at BITOG and even cut one open myself to inspect after I ran it ~16k miles. I run two oil change intervals (15k) before replacing it. The small amount of used oil still in the filter is not a bad thing (and some say leaving it is actually a good thing - some real science there) so I don't bother removing it at the change.
Last edited by Oro; 09-13-18 at 12:11 PM.
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harrisbaig (09-13-18),
wmj259 (09-13-18)
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#9
What particularly impressed me with the Fram in my long-service experiment was that the ADBV never failed and the filter never leaked-down overnight and gave dry starts in the morning - or at least that I ever detected. I would get that after a short while with the Motorcraft filters I was using before that (and they are pretty well regarded filters, made by Purolator). The K&N should also perform well at that from what I hear - I have no personal experience with them. This engine is hard on filters because of the stupid location under the exhaust header and horizontal mounting.
#11
With the Fram, the oversized one is the XG3600. The Fram Ultra are in the general category of quality as the K&N, but with some finer filtration specs and a few dollars cheaper. Good filters, both.
What particularly impressed me with the Fram in my long-service experiment was that the ADBV never failed and the filter never leaked-down overnight and gave dry starts in the morning - or at least that I ever detected. I would get that after a short while with the Motorcraft filters I was using before that (and they are pretty well regarded filters, made by Purolator). The K&N should also perform well at that from what I hear - I have no personal experience with them. This engine is hard on filters because of the stupid location under the exhaust header and horizontal mounting.
What particularly impressed me with the Fram in my long-service experiment was that the ADBV never failed and the filter never leaked-down overnight and gave dry starts in the morning - or at least that I ever detected. I would get that after a short while with the Motorcraft filters I was using before that (and they are pretty well regarded filters, made by Purolator). The K&N should also perform well at that from what I hear - I have no personal experience with them. This engine is hard on filters because of the stupid location under the exhaust header and horizontal mounting.
The oversized filter fits in there without issue, so glad I figured this one out.
#12
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User 122922 (09-20-21)
#14
The only exception I have with that rule is if I find an oil with a superior additive package or performance. I rave about Castrol 0W30, which was known for years as German Castrol because it was made there but now is made in Belgium and had great oil analyses and a superior additive package. However, I would use a 10W30 as I live in Florida and have 175K on the clock.
This thread from Bob is the Oil Guy talks a bit more about the German Castrol, https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...rol#Post718643
This thread from Bob is the Oil Guy talks a bit more about the German Castrol, https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...rol#Post718643
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harrisbaig (09-14-18)
#15
I like the M1 10w-30 HM because the base oils is very robust, and there are very little, if any, viscosity index imp rovers in it compared to a 5w or 0w base oil. The HTHS value is 3.5 (as high a film strength as you can have in a 30 before it's into 40 range). But in truth he add-pack is "OK" in that oil and not truly exceptional. I actually supplement mine with one ounce/qt of oil with Lubegard Biotech. I can tell a difference.