speedkar9

Here’s how to replace the stabilizer bar links and bushings on a Toyota Camry (or any FWD Toyota/Lexus):
Front end clunks over bumps are a common occurrence on many vehicles with worn suspension parts. The stabilizer bar end links have two ball sockets on either end which can wear out. Additionally the sway bar bushings, which attach the sway bar to the sub-frame can also enlarge, become dry and worn and cause the sway bar itself to have excessive play and clunk, knock, click or pop when the car is driven on a bumpy road.

To diagnose this, disconnecting the two sway bar end links and taking the vehicle for a test drive can narrow the problem down. This video is a step by step tutorial on to replace the stabilizer bar links and bushings on many FWD Toyota vehicles, such as the Toyota Yaris, Echo, Matrix, Corolla, Camry, Sienna, Highlander, Avalon, Solara and Lexus RX300, RX330, RX350, ES300, ES330 and ES350.


To replace the end links, two nuts are removed, one from the strut, and the other from the sway bar.


Even after double wrenching and PB blaster, I couldn’t get the sway bar link nut to break free:


So I had to grind it off:


The new link is an Original Grade part from Mevotech. I like how the boot is enclosed with a ring clip instead of opened out like the old link:

To replace the sway bar bushings, the sub-frame has to be dropped slightly to access two rear bracket bolts. This is because the sway bar bolts on top of the sub-frame, but is underneath the body, not leaving enough room to back off the bolt.


The front bracket bolt can be removed using a ratchet through the wheel well.

Ratchet on the 12mm bolt, one click at a time:

Rear bracket bolt, with a ratcheting wrench:

Its too close to the body of the car, hence the subframe has to be dropped:

Release these three bolts to drop the subframe:

The bracket has an arrow on it, possibly indicating the front of the vehicle although the bracket looks symmetrical.

I used a Mevotech Supreme bushing as a replacement, and installed it the same way as removing it.
I put some brake grease on the rubber to prevent squeaking, since it seemed like there was some grease on the OEM bushing that I pulled off.
New stabilizer link installed and torqued to 55 lb-ft.


Enjoy!

HomerJay

Another excellent DIY with sharp video and pictures! Thank you for posting, I'm sure this will come in handy for many.

djayz4u

What are symptoms that these parts need to be replaced? Would it cause the engine to shake upon acceleration? I have replaced the dogbone. I have 241,000 miles on my car (ES 330) and I am getting a horrible shaking above 30 mph on acceleration and as the car decelerates. When idle/park the engine does not shake even when I press on the accelerator. On a further note, I do hear some 'grinding', similar to when the caliper is sticking to the rotors but my brakes are fine. You can hear the revolutions as I increase speeds, then it goes away after the 3rd or 4th acceleration. I also hear a noise when I turn right, but only on the 1st or send turn, then that goes away as well.