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So you dropped the subframe, suspension, steering out the bottom with the engine and trans attached? could you have done it without a lift?
I have noticed that it could ALMOST come out of the top, but the transmission sticks out past the "frame rail" (unibody horn?) enough to make it impossible. I can see sliding the trans over and pulling the motor and then the tranny, but not as a set. Curious to hear what you did
So you dropped the subframe, suspension, steering out the bottom with the engine and trans attached? could you have done it without a lift?
I have noticed that it could ALMOST come out of the top, but the transmission sticks out past the "frame rail" (unibody horn?) enough to make it impossible. I can see sliding the trans over and pulling the motor and then the tranny, but not as a set. Curious to hear what you did
Correct I dropped the subframe with the engine/transmissions till bolted together, steering rack, and suspension (not the shocks). It would be very difficult to do it without a lift, you would need to either have the car raised about 4-5 feet (I believe) off the ground to clear the engine from below. Having access to something like the quick scissor Jack's may be helpful.
Iirc I remember watching the transmission rebuild video and the author said he had dropped the transmission from below, so that may be feasible.
Correct the transmission is a little larger on the driver side wheel well, and would probably contact the frame. Maybe tilting the subframe a little would give a little more clearance but not sure.
I finished installing everything and now I hear that here's an exhaust Leak on the firewall manifold. Damn. Sounds like a motorcycle.
Also hilariously the radiator side catalytic converter was toast. The catalyst was broken and bouncing around and the debris was stopped in front of the shared converter. Funny how I had passed emissions 2-3 months earlier.
I was able to find the leak. It turned out to be where the firewall exhaust manifold meets the return Y pipe. I added the old exhaust gasket squeezed with the New exhaust gasket and that fixed the leak.
This dude put a video on YouTube showing dropout the driver side of a 3rd gen Odysseylow enough to slide the tranny out if the wheel well. I made mental note and would try that in any fwd car
The engine and trans have been running great, until recently when the passenger long shaft cv axle popped out while on the highway. Towed it back and installed a new axle and it seemed like whatever happened was enough to pop the spring clamp out out of the shaft bearing motor mount.
Added more trans fluid. And added a crush washer to the oil pan drain plug.
I just started having a misfire code for cylinder 1&6. I moved cylinder 6 to cylinder 2, 2>4, 4>6.and that must have been a intermittent code.
I just moved cylinder 1>4 and the misfire code went to cylinder 4.must be a bad coil.
I have a bunch of spare coils from the previous engine except the part numbers are different. This replacement engine had coil # 90919-00234.
The old engine coil #90080-19016.
Are these compatible?
I checked on megazip, and i couldn't find both part #'s.
I checked on lexuspartsnow and it says that #90919-00234 was replaced by #90080-19016.
For the sake of conversation, I was thinking of how I’d do this without a lift.... transmission r and r would be jacked way up on 3 ton jack stands and level. Engine and rack pinion supported from top. Drop subframe and all attached (except rack) and leave struts in car. Tranny jack to remove trans. Not sure about those long legs that seem to locate the subframe, if it has to be perfectly level. Seems to be easier to lift one end if the subframe to meet the body and turn a couple threads, then to the other and tighten when all corners and loosely connected. Might not work that way because of the pegs.
The the engine would be out from the top, radiator and support removed. Just thought: the ac has to be evacuated. I have the ability to properly charge ac, but not evacuate, unless and empty r134 tank with vacuum can suck it out and be reused. Seems impossible to get to zero air and all freaon. Seems bad to just let it escape into the air....
The long legs of the subframe have to be aligned somewhat perfectly/level to the main car frame. I will check the clearances again under the hood. The engine does not have hoist lift points (hooks for lifting). May have to use a 2x4 under the oil-pan to support from below.
The subframe will have to be lifted together as the car frame has 4 corner locating tabs. Seen pin picture at each corner:
The A/C will have to be machine evacuated. The refrigerant is a green house gas.
02-05-19, 04:48 AM
