valve cover peek
02-14-19, 06:49 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
valve cover peek
99 at 205K
no engine issues, no leaks.
so far have done reuglar changes with dino.
i am thinking of now swithcing to mobil 1 10-30 fully syntheitc high mileage. just out of curiosity want to peek inside the front valve cover to see how much sludge is there.
can i do that easily without changing gasket or sparkplug seals.. jsut take a look and put it back on. please let me know if it is a bad idea and i will leave it alone.
thanks.
no engine issues, no leaks.
so far have done reuglar changes with dino.
i am thinking of now swithcing to mobil 1 10-30 fully syntheitc high mileage. just out of curiosity want to peek inside the front valve cover to see how much sludge is there.
can i do that easily without changing gasket or sparkplug seals.. jsut take a look and put it back on. please let me know if it is a bad idea and i will leave it alone.
thanks.
02-14-19, 09:25 AM
#2
If you decide to remove the valve cover you would need to replace the gasket. You maybe OK not changing the spark plug seals, but replacement is fairly straightforward and not difficult.
02-14-19, 11:37 AM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
whats a good source for gaskets and washers
02-15-19, 08:03 AM
#4
Keep in mind it’s not that simple. Here is everything you would need to consider.
Draining and refilling the radiator to remove the top hose. Then purging the air out of the system.
Replacing the valve cover gasket.
Replacing the valve cover bolts.
Potentially breaking and replacing the ignition coil connectors due to old age.
Reapplying the RTV sealant to the valve cover.
its not difficult, but time consuming and may make it tricky. Also be careful not to overtighen the valve cover bolts as they easily snap.
Draining and refilling the radiator to remove the top hose. Then purging the air out of the system.
Replacing the valve cover gasket.
Replacing the valve cover bolts.
Potentially breaking and replacing the ignition coil connectors due to old age.
Reapplying the RTV sealant to the valve cover.
its not difficult, but time consuming and may make it tricky. Also be careful not to overtighen the valve cover bolts as they easily snap.
The following users liked this post:
harrisbaig (02-15-19)
02-15-19, 08:25 AM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
Keep in mind it’s not that simple. Here is everything you would need to consider.
Draining and refilling the radiator to remove the top hose. Then purging the air out of the system.
Replacing the valve cover gasket.
Replacing the valve cover bolts.
Potentially breaking and replacing the ignition coil connectors due to old age.
Reapplying the RTV sealant to the valve cover.
its not difficult, but time consuming and may make it tricky. Also be careful not to overtighen the valve cover bolts as they easily snap.
Draining and refilling the radiator to remove the top hose. Then purging the air out of the system.
Replacing the valve cover gasket.
Replacing the valve cover bolts.
Potentially breaking and replacing the ignition coil connectors due to old age.
Reapplying the RTV sealant to the valve cover.
its not difficult, but time consuming and may make it tricky. Also be careful not to overtighen the valve cover bolts as they easily snap.
thx
02-15-19, 02:46 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
When i did my valve covers on my 1MZ on my 00RX
I didnt have to take the coolant hose off --- valve cove slid under it. (Maybe just pull up on the hose to get more clearance)
I left the coil connectors on the coil when i pulled it out and just cleared it away from the valve cover.
Valve cover bolts came out easily and just required a snug tight fit.
It's a shoulder bolt to keep you from smashing the valve cover gasket.
I did put FIPG on the areas that need it though to eliminate a possible leak.
I didnt have to take the coolant hose off --- valve cove slid under it. (Maybe just pull up on the hose to get more clearance)
I left the coil connectors on the coil when i pulled it out and just cleared it away from the valve cover.
Valve cover bolts came out easily and just required a snug tight fit.
It's a shoulder bolt to keep you from smashing the valve cover gasket.
I did put FIPG on the areas that need it though to eliminate a possible leak.
The following users liked this post:
harrisbaig (02-19-19)
02-16-19, 08:04 AM
#7
If I were you I'd stick to dino. Switching to synthetic will likely cause an oil leak because it cleans the engine so well that the dirt sealing your old brittle gaskets is cleaned away. Hence oil starts leaking. Just my humble suggestion.
The following users liked this post:
HydroDog (04-29-21)
Trending Topics
The following users liked this post:
04wES (08-19-19)
02-19-19, 05:44 AM
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
have you tried switching to synthetic in your 2 99 es?
02-19-19, 05:45 AM
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
When i did my valve covers on my 1MZ on my 00RX
I didnt have to take the coolant hose off --- valve cove slid under it. (Maybe just pull up on the hose to get more clearance)
I left the coil connectors on the coil when i pulled it out and just cleared it away from the valve cover.
Valve cover bolts came out easily and just required a snug tight fit.
It's a shoulder bolt to keep you from smashing the valve cover gasket.
I did put FIPG on the areas that need it though to eliminate a possible leak.
I didnt have to take the coolant hose off --- valve cove slid under it. (Maybe just pull up on the hose to get more clearance)
I left the coil connectors on the coil when i pulled it out and just cleared it away from the valve cover.
Valve cover bolts came out easily and just required a snug tight fit.
It's a shoulder bolt to keep you from smashing the valve cover gasket.
I did put FIPG on the areas that need it though to eliminate a possible leak.
thx
02-19-19, 05:47 AM
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
do you recommend any dino oil? how about castrol gtx high mileage?
02-20-19, 12:36 PM
#13
Remember, you have a 20 year old car. So any currently rated API dino would be vastly superior to the oil recommended in your owner's manual. I think the current rating is SN and the oil recommended in your user's manual is SJ. Feel free to use whatever oil you want. I usually use supertech or high mileage in my son's 99 ES300. (140,000 miles)
Full disclosure: In my 99 ES300 (210,000 miles) I used full synthetic but it started leaking oil two weeks after I made the change. I had to change the valve cover gaskets but still had a small leak. I never had to add oil between 5000 mile oil changes but there was always an oil spot under my car.
Full disclosure: In my 99 ES300 (210,000 miles) I used full synthetic but it started leaking oil two weeks after I made the change. I had to change the valve cover gaskets but still had a small leak. I never had to add oil between 5000 mile oil changes but there was always an oil spot under my car.
02-20-19, 01:36 PM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
Then again, if its not leaking, why replace it. Lol
the smaller vacuum hoses rately gets replacing unless its damaged but they stay pretty pliable even with age.
Its the the Purge VSV hose that tends to cook under here. (Bigger hoses)
Cant remember the ID of it (inner diameter)
3/8, 1/4. Not really sure.
Any parts store can match this up and just charge by the foot.
Be carefull though when replacing these.
The vavle also get brittle and might break.
But if your just pulling the front VC, you shouldnt even need to move these.
