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The 1998 Lexus ES300 went in for a regular oil change, and I was notified that the threads on the drain plug on the oil pan were cross threaded and would leak. Right now the oil pan has a slow leak due to an oversized bolt in the drain plug. I have the oil pan and the rubber gasket along with the RTV sealant.
My first question is what kind of oil do you recommend for the vehicle. Normally it has been changed with standard synthetic blend 5W-30. The engine currently has 112K miles on it.
I was wondering if 0W-40 from Mobil 1 would work as well. I have 0W-40 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Engine Oil European Formula Link here. Would it be okay to use that oil in this car or should I stick with the synthetic blend from Firestone. I wanted to switch the engine oil to full synthetic if it is a good thing.
I have the slightest clue as to how to change the oil pan. Am I just taking the bolts out and it will come right off? Is there a detailed step by step for this model on the forum. I performed a search but was unable to find anything. I also wanted to inquire about the sealing process. I have the RTV sealant and an actual gasket. Do I apply one of the methods or do I use both the gasket and the RTV.
I have personally never changed the oil a vehicle before but I understand the concept. Any help would be greatly appreciated on this matter.
Oil: for viscosity use what Lexus recommends.
For replacing the oil pan search Youtube there are many, many vids on the subject. Use RTV only not a conventional gasket.
Oil: for viscosity use what Lexus recommends.
For replacing the oil pan search YouTube there are many, many videos on the subject. Use RTV only not a conventional gasket.
but you recommend use the RTV sealant. I will go ahead and do that tomorrow. I just wanted to know your reasoning for choosing that method over using a traditional rubber gasket.
I found plenty of methods with conflicting reports of removing other components to access the oil pan. It seems like to me there are 10 mm bolts on the pan that need to be removed and it should come off with some prying.
I found this video, and I am going to take a look underneath the car tomorrow to confirm there is nothing in the way that needs to be removed for the oil pan to be replaced.
I figured using a rubber gasket would be much easier since I have no prior experience making a gasket using an RTV sealant. That won't be an issue now because I will be doing this under the supervision of someone who is familiar with such matter.
Never use a gasket on the engine oil pan it will degrade and leak, or worse pieces will fall into the pan and clog the oil pick up. There is good reason auto makers long ago abandoned conventional gaskets here. For cleaning the pan use a wire brush on a bench grinder, or on a drill if that's all you have. The service manual will tell you not to damage the paint but it is nearly impossible to remove the old RTV without removing some paint, I've never had a problem. After I remove all the old sealant I wash the pan with soap and water then dry with compressed air. For applying the sealant it is much easier if you get a
Cleaning the engine block is easy enough with a razor blade, after that use lacquer thinner and a maroon or grey Scotch-Brite pad, you can do the same on the oil pan. Lacquer thinner is a powerful grease remover and won't leave any residue to speak of.
To remove the pan best method is a putty knife and hammer. In the 1MZ service manual I couldn't find where it says how to apply the sealant but the 3MZ shows it. Torque spec on the bolts is 79 inch pounds, inch not foot.
If you NEVER plan on taking the oil pan off again, FIPG (silicone tube - "form in place gasket") is a bad plan. It is a terrible, lengthy clean up-proceedure. It is durable, but no more so than a well installed cork gasket. (read again, "well-installed"). Manufacturers use FIPG because it's a lot cheaper, that's all.
If you don't plan on opening it again, go for it. If you do, you can see how to use gasket prep and conventional gaskets, and proper torqueing, to get the same life and WAY easier replacement. Also, unless you have a seriously leaking pan already, you can just tap the existing drain hole threads and fit an oversize drain plug. This is fast, easy, and cheaper. The Fel-pro gasket you linked is excellent; dress it with a little aviation #3, and install it correctly. I had to correct the factory FIPG installation a few years ago on ours because it was leaking; several years and 80k miles later and it's perfect.
For cleaning the pan use a wire brush on a bench grinder, or on a drill if that's all you have. The service manual will tell you not to damage the paint but it is nearly impossible to remove the old RTV without removing some paint, I've never had a problem. After I remove all the old sealant I wash the pan with soap and water then dry with compressed air.
This is good advice and what I do. It's a real PITA to clean up FIPG to get ready for a new good seal. I also dress the sealing surface with a light pass of a mill bastard file to promote adhesion, a transmission rebuilding touch I transfer to other uses. Bottom line, cleaning up after an FIPG install is a PITA. It will honestly take an hour or two just to get the pan ready to go back in, given you have a well equipped shop and the tools on hand, as well as knowledge and experience. Also the grinder throws rubberized silicone and paint everywhere, so you have to clean up a mess and either wear a mask or hack up black stuff for a day. So read between the lines.
As to oil, unless you are routinely starting the car in -10F weather, use a weather-appropriate oil like a 10w-30. 5w-30 recommendation is a catch-all CYA for North America to cover Alberta and Alaska sold models. It has more additives and less oil; is less robust. Poor choice for most of the lower 48. Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage is a better choice than the 0w-40, IMO; I've used both in various applications and in ours. There are more modern engines with GDI, other tech differences that make that 0w-40 a good choice. A 1mz-fe south of Billings - not the best choice. Our car now has 300k and runs like a top; uses about 16 ounces of oil every 7,500 mile oil change interval. No real change in oil use or engine performance over the last 1/4 million miles using that M1 10w-30HM oil; I like that (I am 2nd owner but have all records). If I bought a new, non-GDI Lexus tomorrow spec'd for 5w-20, I'd dump that at 500 miles (to get out break-in materials). Then I'd run 10w-30 PYB for 2k miles and dump it (same reason). Then I'd run M1 10w-30HM and change it every 7,500 miles and never look back.
I would also urge you to be careful about filter choice. The filter placement on these (horizontal, behind the cat and under the header) cooks drain valves easily. I can only get 2,500 miles out of a Motorcraft 910s (respected $4 filter), but 20k miles out of a Fram Ultra XG3614 (highly admired $9/10 filter). Listen for dry starts/drain back on cold starts and don't let it happen.
I would also urge you to be careful about filter choice. The filter placement on these (horizontal, behind the cat and under the header) cooks drain valves easily. I can only get 2,500 miles out of a Motorcraft 910s (respected $4 filter), but 20k miles out of a Fram Ultra XG3614 (highly admired $9/10 filter). Listen for dry starts/drain back on cold starts and don't let it happen.
For cleaning the pan use a wire brush on a bench grinder, or on a drill if that's all you have. The service manual will tell you not to damage the paint but it is nearly impossible to remove the old RTV without removing some paint
In the video link, it shows a body shop using an induction system to remove adhesive ( starting at 3:40 min mark & 5:40 min mark). They mist a liquid over the dried adhesive then make passes with induction unit. Scraping off the adhesive with no damage to the metal. I have seen a different style induction unit used for heating up bolts, but this one was new to me. And yes, I am certain the unit is $$$, so not cost effective for a weekend wrencher, but found the tool an innovative idea.
06-27-19, 02:54 AM
1998 Lexus ES300 Oil Pan Change RTV or Gasket?
