I bought my 2000 a few months ago and it was down on power during the test drive. I took a chance I could correct it and I finally have.
First I replaced the fuel filter, it looked original and are really needed to be swapped after 180,000 miles. I would recommend this to anyone.
I changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF, cleaned the throttle body and idle control valve thingy but power was still down when accelerating. It felt bogged down and there was lots of valve chatter.
On a whim i replaced the MAF and BAM the power is back baby! It's like a totally different car. Nice smooth acceleration this car feels quick. No valve chatter either. It even 'feels' like the trans is shifting better - before it felt like it was never matched up properly and I was hoping to avoid those issues.

Anyways I just wanted to share.

 

Good to hear, was the MAF damaged by you (easy to do) or someone else? BTW if the MAF is completely dead the car will idle but won't rev at all or maybe go up 200rpm. Might not get a CEL either.

 

I did not damage the MAF that came with the car. It had two different screws in it so someone messed with it at some point. The gasket looked messed up. The old one is a Denso 22204-21010 which appears to be correct. I used an off-brand. I know I know don't say it but I wanted to just try it without spending lots of $, I'm a cheapskate. But it works so let it ride. I used Million Parts # 5824077039 it was like $23.

 

Can someone post MAF sensor readings at idle at 3k and 4k rpm, Just trying to compare if mine should be cleaned or replaced. Have 200k miles on mine with nothing ever done to it.

 

Yes it does, thank you. Is this with car @ temp ?

 

Actually, it’s from a BMW forum, but I would suspect a similarity. There’s really nothing magic about an MAF and they pretty much all work about the same. I couldn’t find one for a Lexus of our board’s year “zone”. What year and size is your motor?

 

I have 05 Lexus ES330 V6 3.3 liter engine. I'm not sure the reading from another car would be the same and be a good reference point.

 

Here’s a good read on MAFs.

https://support.alldata.com/sites/ma...ing_110918.pdf

 

Check out the other link I just posted. They really are kind of “generic” in behavior. I’ll see what I can dig up about yours.

 

Thank you, appreciate the help.
Found those on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/1X43-12B579...r/401785634107
Wonder if they are actually legit.

 

Not a chance they are $135 from an online Lexus dealer. I have no problem getting a fake MAF for that price I've used generic they seem to work fine. Longevity is unknown.

 

Can’t find a specific link for the MAF readouts for a Lexus like yours. My point was that an MAF graph at 500rpm points should be a steady, straight rise. If it’s not, then your MAF needs servicing/replacing but only after the throttle body is removed and scrubbed down inside with CRC and a toothbrush. Not a bad idea to clean the cable connector too.

Denso is the only way to please the “gods” of Toyota/Lexus when it comes to electrical parts. When I clean my MAF, I use soft brushes from the craft section at Walmart and CRC to give it a good cleaning.

 

I apologize as I didn’t open your link last night, but for the price shown that’s not a genuine Denso MAF. Like Lexus2000 said, they’ll run you about $130 online and longevity is a concern.

When I first questioned my MAF, I also replaced it with a non-Denso for about the same bucks, but I went ahead and bought the Genuine Denso and installed it and put the non-Denso in my little box of “spare emergency stuff” for just-in-case problems if I need it.

I’ll iterate that removing the Throttle Body and cleaning it in-hand is the way to go. Yours isn’t that much of a chore to remove and you’ll be surprised at the junk built up on the back side of your valve plate. Not a bad time to replace your air filter if you’re serious about your intake issues and getting it right. Stay away from oiled filters such as K&N.