fortitude

I completed the following on my 2002 ES300.

PARTS:

Timing Belt Kit (Aisin TKT-026) - Rock Auto

Cam Oil Seals (both sides) Toyota 90311-38034

Crank Seal Toyota 90311-40022

Crank Pulley Bolt Toyota 90119-16004

M6-1.0 X 45mm Bolt (1)

· Used with puller for the crank sprocket


TOOLS:

OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder (Amazon)

Sunluway Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Crankshaft Crank Holder Tool (Amazon)

Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller (Amazon)

OEM TOOLS Harmonic Balancer Puller #27019 (rented)

· Use the M8-1.25 bolts provided

1.25” Schedule 40 Coupling

1” spring clamp (2)



This post will highlight several points regarding removal & install process.



Crank Pulley bolt - Of the entire process, the crank pulley bolt was the challenge. I have a 3/8 drive air impactor and a corded 1/2" drive Dewault impactor (this takes two hands...). Neither was successful on the bolt. I had the OTC Pulley holder for the crank pulley, and the force used broke one of its pins. I tried the bump start method at least 10 times with no success. At this point, I had not purchased the Sunluway crank holder. So had to wait for the following weekend to have a second go at it. I also purchased a new OEM crank bolt ($16).

The crank holder came with two M8-1.25 X 3" bolts & washers. They are 10.9 rating so decent strength. I fastened the holder ensuring the bolts were tight. If these bolts are not tight, you run the risk of shearing of them off. The length and washers worked. The holder’s tongue was long enough to rest on top of the engine mount so did not need to use breaker bar to support it.

Using several extensions, a ½# drive breaker bar, plus 3’ long pipe, I was able to break loose the bolt.

Installation: The holder and a breaker bar worked perfect to secure pulley while torqueing down new bolt


Cam gear bolts - required a breaker bar and pipe as well. The OTC pulley holder, using the large pins worked great. Be mindful, when using the holder, that the pins do not wedge against the bolts behind the cam gear. You can deform the bolt head.

Installation: The holder worked perfectly


Cam seals & Crank seal – the Listle tool worked perfect. No scoring of the cam or crank surface, the seals came out easily, in one piece

Installation: I used the schedule 40 coupling listed above, to seat the new seals. Its inner diameter allowed it to slide over the cam and crank. Its outer diameter was good to cover most of the seal diameter. I pushed the seals in evenly with this. For the cams, I gave a slight tap with hammer to final seat them. For the crank seal, I placed the crank bolt&washer through the coupling and slowly tightened. This walked the seal in evenly to its final seat.


Timing belt – The process I followed is from the Lexus service manual. Listed below are points related to the installation but are not the detailed total installation processes.

The crank timing sprocket has 2 index marks.

1. On the face of the sprocket – used to index the timing belt
2. On the second step of the sprocket – used to index crankshaft timing location with engine block (oil pump body)

Installation:

• Ensure you orient the belt correctly. Mine had arrows showing which edge faces out. If you do not follow this point, the pre-established timing index lines printed on belt will not line up with cam/crank indexes’.
• Ensure the cam gears index marks are lined up with the index marks on the timing cover
• Ensure the crank index mark is lined up with index on engine block (oil pump body)
• The belt will be installed in a counter clockwise direction. It is important, as you work through belt install, you keep the belt taught, removing the slack.

1. Starting at the crank sprocket, find the dashed index painted line on the timing belt, line that up with the index mark on the face of the crank sprocket
2. Then around the water pump pulley
3. Then around the Left Hand cam gear (the one on the right as you face the engine) - The printed index line on the belt should line up with the index mark on the cam gear. - Ensure you have pulled any slack out of the belt without puling too hard which could move the crank sprocket
4. Place a spring clamp on the cam gear securing the belt
5. Then under Idler Pulley No 2
6. Then around the Right Hand cam gear (the one on the left as you face the engine) - The printed index line on the belt should line up with the index mark on the cam gear
7. Place a spring clamp on the cam gear securing the belt
8. At this stage, look at the index mark on the timing cover (I used a mirror). While the index line on the belt lines up perfectly on the cam gear index mark, it may show the cam gear/belt not lining up with the index mark on the timing cover, like mine did. This was due to slack. I slightly rotated the cam gear counter clockwise (the belt has already been clamped to the gear) and the index marks line up perfectly. This step is more of a reference check ensuring all is good up to this point.
9. Then Idler Pulley No 1
10. Then belt should be in place perfectly at the crank sprocket
11. Double check your printed index lines on timing belt with index marks on crank/cam gears. They should line up perfectly.

• I removed the spring clamps holding the belt to the cam gears after I installed & pulled the pin on the tensioner

I have attached a document with photos of the tools

Richardsr

Excellent write-up and many thanks for taking the time to write it up. Cheers.

One question: Does this also apply to the 330 in my ‘05?

Not going to try this any time soon, but sometimes **it happens and the more info, the better.

fortitude

In theory, yes. With the correct tools, the task is fairly straight forward.

.