LanceLink

I need the proper wrench to replace the Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper on my 2003 ES300. I found a YouTube video and someone commented (pardon their grammar), 'My mechanic use 23 wrench to loose it, and 22 wrench to tight it. No need to remove anything but the vacuum tubes. My car is 2003 ES300'.

Is this accurate? I know it's a tight area to work in. I'd rather buy only 1 wrench. If a 23mm can loosen, why can't it tighten? Any thoughts? Thanks!

*** UPDATE Monday, November 11, 2019 - Indeed, this afternoon, I used a 23mm to remove the damper and a 22mm (actually 7/8") to tighten the new one (OEM Toyota). Most importantly, the problem is now fixed! The car runs great! I'll provide more info later. Thanks to everyone who replied.

LanceLink

This is the best info I can find on YouTube.

Oro

It's a 22.

Several:

a) If you don't own a 22mm wrench, and it's an effort to go get one, consider if you have the tool kit and experience to repair things correctly, or if you find that's not the problem, or you bung it up along the way.

b) these are extremely low-failure pieces. How did you diagnose this as your single-point failure in the system?

c) I am not advocating you tuck it in and pay a pro - goodness no, how would young people learn if they took that approach (I hate it when people ask for advice and anonymous users say "call a pro" without adding advice). But consider asking some friends to help, advice, loan tools, or get on this board or others to double check your diagnosis.

d) "My mechanic use 23 wrench to loose it, and 22 wrench to tight it. No need to remove anything but the vacuum tubes." - The last modern piece of equipment I recall using a vacuum tube was a c. 1988 Luxman or McIntosh hybrid main audio amplifier, with hybrid digital/analog signal modulation. Probably some similar esoteric hardware since then. But not in a 2003 ES300. So this person has perhaps an idea of what they are talking about but no accurate way of describing it. Belay the nonsense and evaluate it on your own. Don't keep giving someone credit once they've impeached their own credibility (Schiff, Pelosi, e.g.).

LanceLink

Thanks, will buy a 22.

Recently, I found the damper cap on its side with the screw in it, and a gasoline smell. I tightened the screw which has remained in place, but the cap keeps popping off.

Also, with the engine idling and using a wooden dowel to listen to the damper, it makes a loud racket, sort of like a boat motor.

Engine roar while driving, diminished MPG, plugs and coils were recently replaced. I realize it could be something else (fuel regulator), but with 160K miles, I figure it's a good place to start.

Richardsr

A bit of advice... When in situations such as these, buy the Genuine OEM part, take it to wherever you’re going to buy your wrench in question and buy it to fit your part. Since the Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper you described is almost guaranteed to be OEM, I can see no problem following this procedure.

LanceLink

Thanks, second owner since 2009. Ordered Genuine OEM today.

LanceLink

UPDATE Monday, November 11, 2019 - Indeed, this afternoon, I used a 23mm to remove the damper and a 22mm (actually 7/8") to tighten the new one (OEM Toyota). Most importantly, the problem is now fixed! The car runs great! I'll provide more info later. Thanks to everyone who replied.