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Take them the T-IV, or Mobil 3309 (same thing). Alternate is Idemitsu TLS (toyota-lexus-scion). These will give the best performance. 9oz of a 10oz bottle of Lubegard Red is a wise idea. Put the other oz in the PS resrevoir after you drain&fill it. Don't forget that, too.
Oro,
Have you tried Castrol Transmax Import for Toyota? If so, what were your thoughts?
Found on eBay the OEM strainer and gasket and 6 qts type T-IV... should be enough right? $130 all together.
The strainer is not a wear item. It's not a paper filter that clogs; it's just a cow-catcher device to grab out chunks. Don't waste money replacing it.
Get 4 or 5 qts of T-IV, Mobil ATF3309, or Idemitsu TLS. I believe four are enough for a drain/fill. Unless you think there's a lot of clutch debris settled in the pan (unlikely unless the car was abused), then dropping the pan is not necessary and I wouldn't get a gasket, either. I did eventually change my gasket at ~300k miles when it was weeping a very small amount (not enough to even leave drops on the driveway). The pan was spotless. The strainer was - well, just a strainer and I examined it to make sure a thrust bearing wasn't broken up in it, but otherwise didn't touch it.
I would also recommend buying 1 or 2 transmission magnets as well to put into the bottom of your pan.
This is not a bad idea when the pan is open. I *think* these pans had magnets in them and a magnetic plug - more than enough. On my SUV, which had neither, I put magnets in the bottom of the AT pans (yes, it had two). I would not open the pan on the ES just for this.
Oro,
Have you tried Castrol Transmax Import for Toyota? If so, what were your thoughts?
I have not used it. I did in fact think about it for this application at one point years ago, and again very recently for use in a 2003 Honda (problematic ATs). Thus I recall the specs and the only VOA I saw on it was not impressive - flash point was low, addpack was weak. For the Honda, I went with Lubegard ATF after a solvent (Chemtool B-12) rinse, then a short-mileage flush with MaxLife. Now on Lubegard and the difference has been dramatic and it is going to buy that transmission a MUCH longer life. This ATF:
It was $7/qt from TruTrans, sometimes I find it cheaper and stock up. It is a great substitute vs. MaxLife if you have a newer Lexus/Toyota needing WS. Also great for problematic Honda trans. or a Dexron vehicle. But it's more expensive than the best stuff for these cars so I haven't tried it or felt the need in using it in lieu of T-IV/3309.
Summit racing has 6 x qt containers of Mobil 3309 for $30 - as cheap or cheaper than MaxLife, this, or most any other "substitute" fluid for these transmissions. They have very fair shipping and free shipping at some break-point. So just no reason not to use the real-deal when it's as cheap or cheaper and works better.
The strainer is not a wear item. It's not a paper filter that clogs; it's just a cow-catcher device to grab out chunks. Don't waste money replacing it.
The filter is NOT a metal screen it looks like this. Needs to be replaced we had a member here that cured their transmission problem by replacing it.
The strainer is not a wear item. It's not a paper filter that clogs; it's just a cow-catcher device to grab out chunks. Don't waste money replacing it.
Get 4 or 5 qts of T-IV, Mobil ATF3309, or Idemitsu TLS. I believe four are enough for a drain/fill. Unless you think there's a lot of clutch debris settled in the pan (unlikely unless the car was abused), then dropping the pan is not necessary and I wouldn't get a gasket, either. I did eventually change my gasket at ~300k miles when it was weeping a very small amount (not enough to even leave drops on the driveway). The pan was spotless. The strainer was - well, just a strainer and I examined it to make sure a thrust bearing wasn't broken up in it, but otherwise didn't touch it.
This is not a bad idea when the pan is open. I *think* these pans had magnets in them and a magnetic plug - more than enough. On my SUV, which had neither, I put magnets in the bottom of the AT pans (yes, it had two). I would not open the pan on the ES just for this.
Once you drop the pan on any relatively high mileage vehicle and look inside - you'll be happy you did. Those magnets have a tough job as the mileage piles on.
The filter is NOT a metal screen it looks like this. Needs to be replaced we had a member here that cured their transmission problem by replacing it.
That is most definitely NOT the OE screen in our 2002. Same canister, but not a cellulose internal.
I have also seen owners mess up their transmission (when a moderator at TN) switching out the metal and installing the cellulose - starved the pump. The bottom line is to match what's inside and it's not consistent against all U transmissions and years.
That is most definitely NOT the OE screen in our 2002. Same canister, but not a cellulose internal.
The picture I posted is from a 2003. Yes of course use what came from the factory but don't say the filter is a screen when it may not be. BTW my 2000 has a felt filter not a screen.
Ummm.... be careful what you buy online and make sure the filter/strainer is a Genuine OEM Denso product. EBay and Amazon advertisers are some of the craftiest, wordsmithing retailers of fake parts in the market.
The picture I posted is from a 2003. Yes of course use what came from the factory but don't say the filter is a screen when it may not be. BTW my 2000 has a felt filter not a screen.
The picture posted shows nothing, because there's a small felt/cellulose neck in front of the wire mesh screen. It's indeterminate.
[QUOTE][Yes of course use what came from the factory but don't say the filter is a screen when it may not be. /QUOTE]
That's fantastic advice; you should follow it.
BTW my 2000 has a felt filter not a screen.
Which is an unrelated data point. They are different and re-engineered transmissions. The 2002-2004 are well-known to come original with mesh screens. T/L may later have simplified parts logistics and stopped spec'ing the mesh - stands to reason and is VERY common. The pic of a new replacement part doesn't speak to OE equipment.
after all the comments in this thread and calling a local shop I’m doing this. No flush. Replace filter. Drain and refill. Thanks
Thanks for considering the comments and I “approve” of your decision of doing it yourself. This way, you know what transpired and can pass it on. That’s what this place is about.
But, if you’re going to do a drain and refill/filter change instead of a flush/filter change, consider this... Get a 12 bottle case of Denso T-IV ($75 online) and do two drain-and-refills, then do a drain/filter change and refill for the last one. I found it somewhere and posted it here a while back that this procedure will give you roughly a 65% “flush” of old fluid and tranny slush vs a full flush and you’ll be able to clean the pan and magnets. You’ll likely rid your transmission of a lot of slushy muck there also. Do other single drain and refill jobs like every 3 - 4 months. Your transmission will love you for it.
Drive about 30 minutes between changes and include a fair number of stop-and-go maneuvers to accelerate thru each gear. The fluid will be hot, so remember that when draining.
Cheers
Last edited by Richardsr; 01-03-20 at 07:16 PM.
Reason: clarify info
Thanks for considering the comments and I “approve” of your decision of doing it yourself. This way, you know what transpired and can pass it on. That’s what this place is about.
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Good idea to take responsibility of it yourself (theOP). It will be done more competently and carefully, and you will know exactly what happened. I took a Honda Civic to the local Honda dealership two weeks ago for the Takata Airbag recall. They also had to replace the seat belt buckle on the driver's seat for the sensor. They screwed up re-installing the seat and now it rocks like a deck chair on the Titanic. I know it was perfect before it went in because I personally had fixed it the week before (this gen Honda's are known for this fault). Even the dealership couldn't get it right...
But, if you’re going to do a drain and refill/filter change instead of a flush/filter change, consider this... Get a 12 bottle case of Denso T-IV ($75 online) and do two drain-and-refills, then do a drain/filter change and refill for the last one.
Here is a GREAT source for T-IV. Summit racing sells 6qt boxes of Mobil JWS3309 (that IS T-IV) for $30. Their shipping is very fair and there is free shipping at some break-point:
I found it somewhere and posted it here a while back that this procedure will give you roughly a 65% “flush” of old fluid and tranny slush vs a full flush and you’ll be able to clean the pan and magnets.
You may have seen my fractional dilution calculator I use to help convince people of how this works. I just updated it with U151e stats and you can see it here. It is set to the 9.4qt stated capacity of the U151e and a "typical" 3.5qt drain (it can vary a little):
2 x d/f will get you to 60% clean fluid. 3 x will get you to 75%. Since it was last d/f'd "only" 60k ago, I'd be ok with the 2 d/f's for 20k then I'd do it again, then every 30k after that. I have been running either T-IV/3309 or Idemitsu TLS (same) for quite a while now. I am finding 30k to be where the switch from old to new fluid is barely noticeable. The other reason I'd do it on the OP's car in 20 as then it is at 210k, and he's on the multiples - every 30k - 210 (7x30), 240 (8x30), etc. It helps me remember (that and a 200-line excel spreadsheet of all service back a decade!).
You’ll likely rid your transmission of a lot of slushy muck there also. Do other single drain and refill jobs like every 3 - 4 months. Your transmission will love you for it.
Actually, I disagree. I do respect your opinion as you do know your stuff. And, any other transmission, I would agree. These work well and clean; unusually so. I have opened many other and rebuilt two other transmissions; never seen something stay so clean like well-maintained Aisin transmissions.. I did not open our pan until ~260k, and then ONLY because I was kinda curious, really. My excuse was the gasket was a 'little wet' (it was not really leaking). the pan was super-clean, the screen clean - waste of time. On a GM transmission or Ford, oh heck yes. The OP may want to do it for peace of mind, but if I bought another well-maintained one of these, I'd not do it myself. These run clean and don't shed friction material like a lot of transmissions. The OP's tranny has had enough service that it should be ok and the debris have stayed in suspension in the fluid and pulled out when drained and filled, not precipitated out.
I still do advocated 9ozs of of Lubegard Red into the case on the last d/f, and 1 oz into the PS res after d/f'ing it twice. Or better yet, d/f it with Lubegard PS fluid. It has kept my seals and hoses intact (problem on these cars) and they are still original and not leaking at 315k.
12-27-19, 07:55 AM
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