Here's a great cheap socket if you want to service your hub or axle...
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Here's a great cheap socket if you want to service your hub or axle...
Stray thoughts on a quiet night...
I was having a conversation via pm with Fortitude today re: axle replacement (big hint - be sure to replace the inner seal in the transaxle).
Here's a great socket to get, it's only $6 and it's at Lowe's.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Metr...Socket/3387264
Three reasons to get this socket if you want to do this job:
1) it is low-profile vs. deep
2) it's 1/2 the price of others.
3) it's 12pt and not six like many 30mm sockets
The main point is that it's shallow(-ish). When putting a lot of torque on, a shallow socket is way more efficient transferring the torque and not slipping given a long lever-arm. This presumes most DIY mechanics are using a long lever and not air tools. Also, the hub nut is 12pt and many loaner tools and sockets are 6pt. Check the depth of your axle stub; most don't require a deep socket. Depending upon the axle, it might, though.
Indeed, for air-tools you'd want an impact socket (unplated/black oxide steel) vs. a chrome finished/hardened one. It's kinder on the air tool, and long vs. shallow doesn't matter as much when the force is in the same direction vs. offset like with a breaker-bar and cheater arm. (and if you can't get it with a breaker bar + cheater bar, stop what you are doing. The recall the old mechanic's formula: (Kroil + heat) = happiness.
And even if you have an air impact driver, this socket is still fine since you are only going to use it once or twice and not regularly like a professional mechanic. It won't damage your impact driver shaft with that little use.
Check the depth of your axle stub; most don't require a deep socket and this would do you great.
I was having a conversation via pm with Fortitude today re: axle replacement (big hint - be sure to replace the inner seal in the transaxle).
Here's a great socket to get, it's only $6 and it's at Lowe's.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Metr...Socket/3387264
Three reasons to get this socket if you want to do this job:
1) it is low-profile vs. deep
2) it's 1/2 the price of others.
3) it's 12pt and not six like many 30mm sockets
The main point is that it's shallow(-ish). When putting a lot of torque on, a shallow socket is way more efficient transferring the torque and not slipping given a long lever-arm. This presumes most DIY mechanics are using a long lever and not air tools. Also, the hub nut is 12pt and many loaner tools and sockets are 6pt. Check the depth of your axle stub; most don't require a deep socket. Depending upon the axle, it might, though.
Indeed, for air-tools you'd want an impact socket (unplated/black oxide steel) vs. a chrome finished/hardened one. It's kinder on the air tool, and long vs. shallow doesn't matter as much when the force is in the same direction vs. offset like with a breaker-bar and cheater arm. (and if you can't get it with a breaker bar + cheater bar, stop what you are doing. The recall the old mechanic's formula: (Kroil + heat) = happiness.
And even if you have an air impact driver, this socket is still fine since you are only going to use it once or twice and not regularly like a professional mechanic. It won't damage your impact driver shaft with that little use.
Check the depth of your axle stub; most don't require a deep socket and this would do you great.
Last edited by Oro; 01-04-20 at 02:35 AM.
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