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Hey there. Watch a good video of this being done. There are marks on the cam cogs and the crank cog and behind each of the 3 in the motor. They line up for perfect timing, God willing your aren’t 180° off. Watch a good 1mz 3mz YouTube timing belt video. It will show you these marks
There is no way your car doesn't have filters for VVT-i system.. Sorry for being obvious, but are you sure that you unscrewed the right bolt? It is a 14mm fastener on the left side from the actual solenoid, it is not even a bolt, it's more like a nut (refer to the attached photos).
About those sensors - try diagnosing them first, because now you are throwing parts on problems, which is not much efficient and quite a bit expensive. For now, check the resistance of camshaft and crankshaft sensors when the engine is hot and cold.
There is no way your car doesn't have filters for VVT-i system.. Sorry for being obvious, but are you sure that you unscrewed the right bolt? It is a 14mm fastener on the left side from the actual solenoid, it is not even a bolt, it's more like a nut (refer to the attached photos).
About those sensors - try diagnosing them first, because now you are throwing parts on problems, which is not much efficient and quite a bit expensive. For now, check the resistance of camshaft and crankshaft sensors when the engine is hot and cold.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Well I haven't bought any parts yet I just put everything back together really. http://www.japan-parts.eu/lexus/us/2..._cylinder-head I put in my VIN so I'm trying to look at my filter just for reference. I can't really see any filter so I'm kinda stuck atm.
UPDATE PART 2: I made it to the OCV filter and it was noticeably dirty, the actual filter color was stained dark brown compared to @Arsenii s and at the nose end there was very fine black particles that I couldn't make what it was. I cleaned it out as best as I could with some brake clean and cleared my CEL by removing the terminals. Now I go out for a test drive, I drive the car for about 20 miles or so now thinking this fixed it and the light came back on. Now I down to two choices because mechanically I know my car is fine with this original TB job. 1. Either my sensor or sensors are bad because I've had this code and problem before. I did my oil change and then car wouldn't start. 2. Or the new oil I put in (Pennzoil 5W-30 Conventional) when I did my oil change is causing this issue. Mind your I do my oil changes about 3,000 miles because I know this motor has a sludge problem due to careless owners not changing it on time. Any suggestions? Maybe I should check wiring???
UPDATE PART 2: I made it to the OCV filter and it was noticeably dirty, the actual filter color was stained dark brown compared to @Arsenii s and at the nose end there was very fine black particles that I couldn't make what it was. I cleaned it out as best as I could with some brake clean and cleared my CEL by removing the terminals. Now I go out for a test drive, I drive the car for about 20 miles or so now thinking this fixed it and the light came back on. Now I down to two choices because mechanically I know my car is fine with this original TB job. 1. Either my sensor or sensors are bad because I've had this code and problem before. I did my oil change and then car wouldn't start. 2. Or the new oil I put in (Pennzoil 5W-30 Conventional) when I did my oil change is causing this issue. Mind your I do my oil changes about 3,000 miles because I know this motor has a sludge problem due to careless owners not changing it on time. Any suggestions? Maybe I should check wiring???
Hello, sorry for the delay..
At first, there are two of those filters on each of the heads.. Did you clean both of them?
About the oil - 3k oil change interval seems a bit overkill, maybe try using Full Synthetic oil and changing it every 5-6k? Also, I doubt that the oil can cause those issues, given that you don't have any Oil Lights, your oil level is good and you replaced the filter.. You can also test the solenoids while on the car by feeding the power to them, the engine should stall after that, because by doing that, you would shift the timing; or if you have a really advanced OBDII tool or Mini VCI cable, it should have a "Test" function, which will basically do the same thing.
And finally those sensors - before going out and buying those, I think you should test the ones that you have already. It is actually not that hard to do if you have some special equipment, like a scope tool and probe leads. Quality scope tools are kind of expensive, so I would probably suggest visiting a local service center and ask them if they could lend it to you? And if not, it will probably still be cheaper to ask them to check those sensors for you.
So, in conclusion - try visiting some local auto shops and asking them if they have scan tool or scope tool to lend. If not, ask them to do it, this issue could be caused by only one sensor, hence checking them at the service will still be cheaper than buying all three timing sensors for ~$70 each.
At first, there are two of those filters on each of the heads.. Did you clean both of them?
About the oil - 3k oil change interval seems a bit overkill, maybe try using Full Synthetic oil and changing it every 5-6k? Also, I doubt that the oil can cause those issues, given that you don't have any Oil Lights, your oil level is good and you replaced the filter.. You can also test the solenoids while on the car by feeding the power to them, the engine should stall after that, because by doing that, you would shift the timing; or if you have a really advanced OBDII tool or Mini VCI cable, it should have a "Test" function, which will basically do the same thing.
So, in conclusion - try visiting some local auto shops and asking them if they have scan tool or scope tool to lend. If not, ask them to do it, this issue could be caused by only one sensor, hence checking them at the service will still be cheaper than buying all three timing sensors for ~$70 each.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I cleaned both of the filters on each separate head and they were equally as dirty. The rear head bolt was kinda a pain to get to with the coolant lines being in the way. That is done though. You really think that is overkill? I've been doing that based on my automotive background and even did every 3k from my subaru before I got my Toyota Windom. I was thinking the oil was perfectly fine too but now I don't have an explanation of why my car started and died by itself. At this point I should invest in a decent scanner while I'm at it just for future reference. Then I can test the OCV solenoids that way too without buying probes. All in all I'll be doing as much testing before I start buying replacement car parts because I remember someone here had the same codes as me in a ES330 but never posted his solution back on this website. Who knows what actually fixed the problem. I guess this thread is on hold for now...
It is a great idea to do the testing first, it will always be cheaper in a long run. About the tools though, you should buy them only if you are really planning on keeping this car, because they are quite expensive, and they have a learning curve to them. So sometimes it would be better to leave some jobs to professionals; but, if you don't mind spending a few pennies on tools, and then learning how to use them correctly, in a way, it may save your car's life. And no, I do not think that neither the oil nor solenoids are the culprit, since previously you stated that those are good, and you say that the car runs flawlessly. So for now, try checking timing sensors and their wiring, since those are the most probable cause.
By the way, you wrote that your sensors were really gunky - take the cam sensors off and inspect them, and inside of its compartment, the reading part of the sensor and the gear inside the head should be relatively clean. If they are not, it may very well be the issue.. You may also check the resistance of your sensors and if they are producing voltage at all, it will not tell you that it is definitely good, but it will give you a general idea. So, the resistance on my cold Bank 2 Camshaft sensor is 1.072K ohms, to test the voltage part, get a nice solid piece of metal and attach it to the sensor (be careful with it), and quickly remove it, you should see the AC voltage spike to around 0.3V, at least that is what I saw. Also, you can test the Ground that goes to the sensor by checking the continuity between one of the connector pins and the battery ground.. Those are all garage DIY methods that you could use (at least that I know of), others will require special equipment, as I wrote earlier..
About the oil: I don't know, it depends on the oil parameters. I know that synthetic oil in modern cars can last as long as 10,000 miles, but because of sludge issues, you would probably be better off replacing it more frequently. You are using Conventional oil, and it should be replaced a bit more often, but if you will start using Synthetic oil, you should be able to squeeze a bit more life out of it..
The best way to know for sure is to contact Lexus dealer about it, since, trust me, the last thing that they want is to collect your engine by pieces, they've had enough of it already.
CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL VALVE ASSY
Resistance inspection.
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.
Resistance: 6.9 − 7.9 Ω at 20C (68F)
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
(a) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals.
RESISTANCE:
at cold 835 − 1,400 Ω
at hot 1,060 − 1,645 Ω
CRANK POSITION SENSOR
(a) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals.
RESISTANCE:
at cold 1,630 − 2,740 Ω
at hot 2,065 − 3,225 Ω
NOTICE:
”Cold” and ”Hot” on the table express the temperature of the coils themselves.”Cold” is from −10C
(14F) to 50C (122F) and ”Hot” is from 50C (122F) to 100C (212F).
Hello everyone and I'll be informing you on how to adjust your timing belt properly. I've been fighting with these two codes: P0016 and P0018 and that all has to do with your timing belt being out of time.
But before I get into adjustment I learned some things throughout my journey and I hope to help anyone in the future who may come across the thread.
If you have an ES300/330 years 2002-2006 use this kit:
All iterations of the 1MZ-FE are not the same, starting from 2002 onwards the motor started to look and take components from the 3MZ-FE, that includes the plastic intake manifold and revision of the throttle body and many more etc (body style), the hydraulic tensioner and one pulley are different so don't be like me and buy the wrong kit. Now that is out of the way realize that STILL, all iterations of the 1MZ-FE are non-interference engines. SYMPTOMS THAT TIMING BELT PROCEDURE IS OUT OF TIME:
Rough/Harsh Idle.
Car will not start the day after replacement.
Check engine light Codes: P0016 and P0018 combined. (After Resetting and Code will come back)
Abnormal/Noticeable Vibration in the Steering Wheel from a Cold Start
Added cabin noise, motor will have some sort of grunt from acceleration.
If you have any of these symptoms, this is a good indication that you will have to redo your timing belt. NOW FOR TIMING BELT ADJUSTMENT:
(After Crank Pulley is removed) Put your 22MM socket in the motor and get ready to crank the motor clockwise and rotate until your motor is at TDC (Top Dead Center). Realize when you this do no matter how much times you do this, ATLEAST one cam gear will be off. In this case the rear (left cam nearest to the firewall) cam was off by 4 teeth and my front (right cam) cam was in perfect time. So now remove the hydraulic tensioner and start over from scratch.
If you have trouble installing the timing belt again use these 3 tips to fix your mistakes.
1. Get your 22MM socket and move the crankshaft one tooth off on purpose to the left for ease of installation.
2. Get your 17MM short socket or wrench, and for the rear (left cam): have one tooth off (FORWARD) to install belt on the rear cam, use a clip to hold it down.
3. Get your 17MM short socket or wrench, and for the front (right cam): have one tooth off (BACKWARD) to install belt on the front cam, use a clip to hold it down.
After this, you'll realize that the cam gears have slack, so now you should be able to rotate the both cams slightly back to match with the TDC timing marks.
Now once the belt is installed, rotate the crank clockwise forwards one tooth to ensure that the crank is at TDC.
That is my trick to adjust your timing belt, last time I trouble installing my belt because the cam gears kept on moving, from my understanding one of the reasons is that I had all my spark plugs in the motor and when I originally cranked the motor to TDC I was building up compression, so the proper way is to remove all spark plugs prior to the timing belt job to not have any extra pressure when installing but this is a transverse V6 motor layout.
So yeah I hope anyone who stumbles across this thread reads this for help.
02-01-20, 08:50 PM
Well by the end of this week or so I'll update this thread and let the people on Club Lexus know.
Now I down to two choices because mechanically I know my car is fine with this original TB job. 1. Either my sensor or sensors are bad because I've had this code and problem before. I did my oil change and then car wouldn't start. 2. Or the new oil I put in (Pennzoil 5W-30 Conventional) when I did my oil change is causing this issue. Mind your I do my oil changes about 3,000 miles because I know this motor has a sludge problem due to careless owners not changing it on time. Any suggestions? Maybe I should check wiring???
