When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
. Now this is where things go bad. I install all the parts and the cam gears are lined up and the oil pump is at TDC (Top Dead Center). I've noticed that the timing belt tensioner didn't fit so I reused my old one and not knowing until I typed up this post I installed the wrong No. 1 idler pulley so the timing belt tensioner was physically not even touching the idler pulley. So for good measure I rotate the crank 360 degrees and my timing belt physically skip multiple teeth and the sound is like single strings from a guitar. Then I immediately stop and when I check up on top. My Cam gears are completely off and my TDC position on the bottom position doesn't match at all. My question is how can get the car back in time again? I realized after the fact the kits are completely different, from both tensioners. Any help is appreciated
I didn't really understand the issue..
You are saying that the reason why the belt skipped teeth is because of wrong pulley, and that your engine is not an interference one. You already know the issue, the reason and the treatment - you just need to replace the pulley, remove the belt, adjust the engine and put the belt back.. Here is how you can adjust your shafts, just in case if you don't know how. Basically you just need to align mark on the shaft with the mark on the engine block.
I didn't really understand the issue..
You are saying that the reason why the belt skipped teeth is because of wrong pulley, and that your engine is not an interference one. You already know the issue, the reason and the treatment - you just need to replace the pulley, remove the belt, adjust the engine and put the belt back.. Here is how you can adjust your shafts, just in case if you don't know how. Basically you just need to align mark on the shaft with the mark on the engine block.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Since I bought and used the wrong timing belt kit from Amazon the No.1 Idler pulley (the pulley that uses a 10mm Hex socket) is a completely different shape from the newer ES300 models. Thanks for the input, I will use your advice and will update this thread. So what I plan one doing is to take off the timing belt tensioner, then the No. 1 idler pulley, remove the timing belt and will have to re-time the engine. Then put the belt on and see what happens.
Since I bought and used the wrong timing belt kit from Amazon the No.1 Idler pulley (the pulley that uses a 10mm Hex socket) is a completely different shape from the newer ES300 models. Thanks for the input, I will use your advice and will update this thread. So what I plan one doing is to take off the timing belt tensioner, then the No. 1 idler pulley, remove the timing belt and will have to re-time the engine. Then put the belt on and see what happens.
Perfect!
That is basically what you need for now. Just make sure that the belt is tight this time..
P.S. I would also suggest to go with the complete kit next time, like this one.
Perfect!
That is basically what you need for now. Just make sure that the belt is tight this time..
P.S. I would also suggest to go with the complete kit next time, like this one.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Hours later and the job is completely done!! The only annoying thing was that one of my cam gears where HALF a tooth off, Oil pump TDC was fine, when I re-timed the motor one of the cam gears slightly moved and I was getting tired of starting over. So I took the risk.
This video helped me give a good reference video on how to re time a motor. And I feel like if I wanted the get that one cam gear that was moving slightly I would have to take off the valve cover and "lock" it down with an adjustable wrench. Anyways I started her up and my motor sounds great, maybe even better that before.
Just keep an eye for some leaks, weird sounds, stuff like that for a few days, just to make sure..
So now I have an issue, I got a code while the car was idling. 2 weeks before I did my timing belt I did a simple oil change, but when I started my car it immediately died. Tried again and nothing. Since I don't have a personal scanner I removed the two battery terminals and waited 5 minutes and the code went away. Perfect now the car starts with no issue. Now I finished the timing belt as I'm idling my car gets a code, so I drive to the parts store and scan the car for codes. P0016 and P0018. Then I check previous history codes from the scanner for my car and its the same P0016 and P0018. Now I'm confused because I'm convinced my timing is off but is my sensor bad too?? So anyways I drive my car and I want to test it, so I immediately rev the car out to see if the car has some issue it will at higher RPMs. And BINGO the check engine light FLASHES so I immediately slow down, but when I slowed down the check engine light stopped flashing and the code went away, now I'm completely lost and don't know what to do because my car is completely drive-able.
Those codes definitely mean that your engine is out of alignment. The best thing I could suggest is to take a look at it again. You are probably just one or two teeth away..
On some occasions, it can mean a VVT-i solenoid failure
I doubt that those codes are the sensor malfunction, since they go from multiple different sensors, and the odds of several sensors malfunction at the same exact time are extraordinarily low.
Also, it is not a very good idea to rev hard the engine with such codes. You are lucky enough to have a non-interference engine, but if you would do it with something like 2JZ-GE, you may run into quite a lot of unwanted fun..
Those codes definitely mean that your engine is out of alignment. The best thing I could suggest is to take a look at it again. You are probably just one or two teeth away..
On some occasions, it can mean a VVT-i solenoid failure
I doubt that those codes are the sensor malfunction, since they go from multiple different sensors, and the odds of several sensors malfunction at the same exact time are extraordinarily low.
Also, it is not a very good idea to rev hard the engine with such codes. You are lucky enough to have a non-interference engine, but if you would do it with something like 2JZ-GE, you may run into quite a lot of unwanted fun..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Well it looks like I'll have to take off everything and start over again. Bad thing is that this my daily driver I wish I can fix it ASAP but the good-bad thing is my car is non-interference so no damage will be done. All I have to do is wait until next week and then fix my timing issues. Any yeah I won't be revving this car over 3,000rpms... now. I will be babying this car until then. Sucks how much time I put into this thing but atleast taking everything off will be faster, I'll update this thread in a week or so. I'm guessing that when I said I was off HALF a tooth maybe when the tensioner was tightened it moved to a full tooth.
Well it looks like I'll have to take off everything and start over again. Bad thing is that this my daily driver I wish I can fix it ASAP but the good-bad thing is my car is non-interference so no damage will be done. All I have to do is wait until next week and then fix my timing issues. Any yeah I won't be revving this car over 3,000rpms... now. I will be babying this car until then. Sucks how much time I put into this thing but atleast taking everything off will be faster, I'll update this thread in a week or so. I'm guessing that when I said I was off HALF a tooth maybe when the tensioner was tightened it moved to a full tooth.
Yeah, I know that sucks..
But don't be discouraged, stuff happens.. Just look at it from the positive side - at least now you've got some valuable, hands-on experience, you know how it all works, and I promise it will take much less time on a second try.
It honestly reminds me of how I was repairing my Nokia E7-00 back in the day - I took it all apart, cleaned everything, replaced a few bits and pieces and assembled it back, only to discover an extra screw still laying on the table... And oh man it took me a while to get back to it..
Looking forward for your follow-up and best of luck!
Yeah, I know that sucks..
But don't be discouraged, stuff happens.. Just look at it from the positive side - at least now you've got some valuable, hands-on experience, you know how it all works, and I promise it will take much less time on a second try.
It honestly reminds me of how I was repairing my Nokia E7-00 back in the day - I took it all apart, cleaned everything, replaced a few bits and pieces and assembled it back, only to discover an extra screw still laying on the table... And oh man it took me a while to get back to it..
Looking forward for your follow-up and best of luck!
Well I'm back and I have good news and bad news. The good news is that I was able to correct my timing belt, the front cam was off by two teeth, and with hard work and determination I put everything back on, the correct way. Now my idle is back to normal now and when I reset the code the P0016 and P0018 came back. Now I'm back at square one because when I did my oil change prior 2 weeks ago before my timing belt my car died on me. So I'm wondering, now could the sensor or sensors be actually bad?
This is the crankshaft position sensor for the 1MZ/3MZ, I've noticed that specific connector was specifically dirty and covered in dirt so I'm wondering if I should go ahead and change it because mechanically this car is fine.
OR
The VVT sensor or sensors (at least what this website calls it.)
Should I change out these sensors and see if my check engine light goes away? I'm wondering if anyone is have this issue, because I had this before I did my timing belt and now since my car has over 180,000+ miles, the problem can be anything...
I doubt that both sensors would go out like that, I would probably try checking VVT-i solenoids.
It is relatively easy to do, you just need to remove it from the car and feed power to it - the solenoid should open and close when you're adding or removing power. Also, check its filter, since that is probably what causes it.
I doubt that both sensors would go out like that, I would probably try checking VVT-i solenoids.
It is relatively easy to do, you just need to remove it from the car and feed power to it - the solenoid should open and close when you're adding or removing power. Also, check its filter, since that is probably what causes it.
Sounds like a plan, with the amount of miles on this car, it might of not been changed but regardless of that statement maybe there is some sort of sludge or dirt in the filter. Maybe the new oil from the fresh oil change pushed dirt to or near the solenoid. Bought this car used around 160k and did oil change intervals within 3,000 miles with the OEM filter so I didn't think much of it. I'll clean the filters first and check the solenoids second and update this thread. This car is getting interesting...
UPDATE ON THREAD **** Photo where the VVT filter bolt should be
So I when ahead and disconnected the battery during the whole time I was working on my ES and found out on my car, I don't have any VVT filter. Mind you I have an 2003 ES300 which is the last possible year that had the 1MZ-FE so I had the Plastic Intake Manifold with VVTi etc. And some more differences are the timing belt tensioner and pulley which I share with the newer 3MZ-FE motor (ES330s). Still I have a 1MZ because it's stamped on the block next to the automatic transmission. I pulled out the bolt where the VVT filter SHOULD be.
So I inspected both VVT (Oil Control Valve) Solenoids and I noticed that the front bank was already covered in oil prior to me taking it off so I inspected movement and cleaned with with some brake clean. The rear bank was the same but with no oil prior to me removing it. Now throughout this entire job I've noticed my Crankshaft and Camshaft sensors (nearest to me) is complete covered in dirt and I purposely didn't touch it to see if the CEL will go away. It did so I went on a test drive and as soon I pulled up to the Walmart parking lot my CEL came on along with VSC and TRAC OFF (as it did before). Now maybe the sensors are bad or there is some issue in the wiring?? This car is 17 years old so anything can be the problem at this point.
01-11-20, 05:46 PM
Timing belt problems? How to adjust your timing belt to fix mistakes
