Chipsterle

I have a 95 es300 that runs and idles fine but when the engine is revved there is a slight bog until the rpms smooth out into the higher revs. Also when it is shifted into drive there is no power what so ever the car moves at a very slow pace and never picks up full speed. Its feels like something is holding the car back. There are no check engine lights on and no stored codes.. Could it be the timing has slipped or a clogged cat?

Richardsr

More like your transmission is shot and you won’t get any codes with that. Timing and/or clogged cat certainly would.

Arsenii

Hello,

If it would have been a slipped timing, your ECU would have sat off the alarm right away. Could be a clogged cat, or a misreading sensor... Some sensors are really insidious, they could show information that is within ECU specs, but doesn't correlate with the reality. The only way to check that is to take a look an ECU's live data.

Starting from the easiest first, did you check fuel and air filters? Spark Plugs? Does your car consume any oil or coolant?

Maybe you should start by checking all the filters in a car. If it's all good, go check your catalysts. If you have access to a service equipment, you can check fuel line pressure and compression.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Chipsterle

Thanks for your reply.. I am pretty sure it is not a transmission slip. How would I go about checking the timing or a clogged cat?

Chipsterle

All of the filters have been checked in addition to the spark plugs and coils. I think we will try checking the cat to see if it may be stopped up...

Arsenii

To check the timing, you need to take off the timing cover, and then look for alignment tabs on the engine block, and on all the timing pulleys (see picture below).

Credit: AxleAddict

Checking a catalyst can be a bit trickier - the simplest way to eliminate the cat is to try loosening up exhaust bolts, so that exhaust would bypass the cat, and see if anything improves. It is not the best method, and not the safest, but it is fast and easy.
To go a bit more detailed, you can use a pyrometer and take the readings at the beginning of the cat, and at the end - the end should be hotter, not the front. Or you can try visiting your local parts store and renting a Back Pressure Tester. It would probably be the most accurate test.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

LeX2K

Can check the cat with a temperature probe (inlet and outlet). Does the engine rev up normally with the car in Park? As per usual my advice is look at live scanner data it's the most basic but important diagnostic method, anything else is guesswork.

Chipsterle

Thanks, will give it a try...

Chipsterle

The engine bogs for maybe a half second when revved in park but then goes up smoothly. If idle is maintained around 2000 and higher revving up down there is no bog or hesistation, but when it is shifted into park you can floor the accelerator and the car barely reaches 5 to 10 mph...

Chipsterle

I have a scanner and have seen the live freeze frame options but dont really know how to read them... Please explain what I need to be lookin for. Thanks...

LeX2K

Long term fuel trims if they are more than ~15% (or some crazy number) something is wrong. A bad MAF will cause your issue. You can do a back pressure check with your hand start the car block off the muffler for 15 seconds and release if you don't get a strong build up of pressure the system could be clogged.

Chipsterle

Ok will try that.. How many cats does this model have by the way?

LeX2K

Unless you have a California spec car, one.