Hello! I have a 1998 ES300 with about 50000 miles on the odometer (49700), and I wanted to perform my own transmission fluid change on it. I've watched a video on YouTube by Chrisfix on how to change the transmission fluid and I just had a couple of questions regarding my particular transmission fluid and the type the fluid that is compatible, as well as the overall process.

So upon checking my transmission fluid, it appears to be mainly pink, but with slight undertones of what would be considered darkish brown/black. Upon smelling it I can say that it does smell "burnt". That isn't to say that it looks black. Just pink with undertones of dark brown/black. Would this fluid be ok to simply to a fluid change? In regards to the type of fluid, upon checking the manual I could only find a reference to "Automatic Trans-axle" Fluid on page 220 which referes to Dexron III. I've read that a couple of forum users here vouch for Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF fluid. Would this fluid be compatible for my car?

Now if I wanted to do a simple transmission fluid change, would you guys recommend I follow Chrisfix's guide ( ) to changing transmission fluid (which includes not only draining the transmission fluid, but also changing the transmission filter and gasket)? He also includes instructions on tightening the bolts holding the transmission valve body (at the 5:27 mark), in order to increase transmission performance and longevity. Would you guys recommend that be done as well, or is it just not worth the hassle? I do appreciate all the responses, thank you!

 

Hello,

If you suspect that the transmission fluid is burnt, I would not suggest going in there, you may end-up with the transmission slipping. You may still replace the fluid, but only on your own risk, you will have to be prepared for a rebuild.

Pre-facelift ES300 used Dexron III fluid, while post-facelift got switched to Toyota's own T-IV fluid. In short, you should only use what is prescribed in the owner's manual. Might as well replace the gasket and the filter while you are in there. From my understanding, ES300 had a couple of different filter designs, you will be better off verifying it with the dealership.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Well, the fluid is still pink. I just seem to collect small traces of black substance when i wipe off the dipstick with a paper towel...To be honest I'm not really even sure how "burnt" transmission fluid is supposed to smell lol. Is there any for certain signs that the transmission is too far gone? The car has only 49000 miles on it so I wouldn't think that it would be too late.

 

That is what makes me wonder actually.. The mileage seems too small for the fluid to get burned, it should still be in reasonable shape, unless if someone was constantly racing the car to no end, or your level is too low.

Do you experience any shifting troubles at all? It will be hard to tell something here, so I would suggest asking a local specialist as soon as possible if the fluid is still good, if you should replace it or not, and what may be the reason for it getting burned at such a low mileage. Better to be safe than sorry..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Here's a photo of the transmission fluid after several minutes of it settling on a paper towel:



This is after driving for about 15 mins. Notice the "slight" black residue on the towel. I'm not sure if this is an issue or normal.

 

That fluid still looks good. I would just drop the pan, change the filter and gasket. I think that it uses Dexron III fluid. I have changed the fluid 3 or 4 times in my 1998 ES300, no problems. Be careful and do not drain the differential fluid as it is difficult to replace (it is contained in a small separate compartment below the main transmission fluid compartment with it's own drain and fill plugs. The later transmission had the differential fluid and the transmission fluid not contained in separate compartments). The drain and fill of the transmission in the 1998 ES300 is an easy job!

 

I would agree with that. The fluid looks like it is in great shape, there is nothing to worry about. That black residue is normal for any transmission, and it does not seem like it is burnt at all. You should be safe to do a drain and refill, there in no need to flush it. Contact the dealership and ask them what filter is used in your car, and if it is safe to just clean it. The last time I've checked, I've been told I can just clean it out, but I am not sure about it..

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

You’re worrying too much. You can drain the pan and refill a few quarts at a time to gradually refresh the fluid. Maybe once every oil change

 

I would say it is a bit of an overkill, but the point is right - just do a basic drain and refill every like 30,000 miles, and you will be fine. You don't have to drop the pan each time you do a refill, the filter should be able to last longer than that.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

In the U151 in the 2002+ models, you don't even have to drop the pan. You can pump almost the full pan contents out via the dipstick tube (~3.3 qts IIRC). I use a hand pump, you can get cheap but effective ones at Harbor Freight and most auto parts stores. I'd try this first to see if you can get the hose adequately to the bottom of the pan - usually, you can.

There really is no point in dropping the pan at that low mileage. If the car had 200k on it, I might consider a filter change and cleaning the pan worth it, were it still on original fluid. But that's overkill here, also. Please do know, you check the fluid fill level with the engine running and after shifting through all the gears while stationary. If I had just bought it, with that low a mileage, and with the fluid looking like that, I would just do a partial swap now and then at 75k miles, 100k miles, etc.

You can use Dex III if your manual says so, T-IV, or you can use the Mobil 1 Synthetic. A bottle of lubegard Red is smart, with one of the ounces going into the PS system.

Remember to do the same with the PS reservoir each time, too. Pull the lower house and catch the reservoir contents as they drain. Then refill with Dex III or whatever you use.

 

There is a filter that has been known to clog especially if a car sits for a long time.



edit- found the TSB from Toyota they say never to mix Dexron with T type fluid and that T fluid is not Dex compatible.
https://ravenol.co.za/wp-content/upl...E2%80%9399.pdf

 

So I've been trying to find Dexron III ATF online but all I find is newer ATF, such as Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF that says its compatible in situations that specify the need for Dexron III. What would you be recommended for Dexron III ATF?

 

This is the best ATF I've tried I don't bother with anything else now, and if you join the Asmoil preferred program the price is reasonable. I use it in all my cars now, well the ones with auto transmissions.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/oe-multi-ve...ion-fluid-otf/

If you don't want to spend that much go with a full synthetic that specifically says it is Dexron II/III compatible. Is this the stuff you're thinking about?
https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/...synthetic-atf/

....looks like the Amsoil price if you have preferred is about the same as the Mobil 1.

 

Looks good! I'll see if they have this brand at my local O'reilly's Auto Parts. Thanks!

Thank you to everyone for giving good advice! I think next week I'm going to go ahead and just do a drain and fill, and replace the filter and gasket next time I change the engine oil. It seems to me the more reasonable decision.

 

Just a quick question, would you happen to know the difference between these two products?:

1.OE Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

2.Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid