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Hello All,,,,,,,,
I am first time Lexus owner And First time posting Here at Club Lexus; PLEASE HELP/ADVISE.....
i recently acquired 1994 Lexus es300 with 94,705 Miles that had been sitting Un driven for several years (between 5 to 7 years).
Brake pedal went to floor when depressed while driving and brakes were very ineffective ( Barely stopped Car).
Anyway; i discovered that Right side (passenger) rubber brake Hose was cracked/Leaking brake fluid. So i had brake hose Replaced with New Rubber Brake Hose AND had the 2 Front wheels "Bled" and Refilled Reservoir with NEW DOT 3 Brake Fluid.....
BUT after Hose Replacement and Bleeding ; the ABS light on dash came ON and has remained ON every since repair. This ABS light was NOT on prior to repair And brakes seem to work Fine Now. I have checked All ABS related Fuses/Relays and they all "Appear" to be ok.
So Forum; Please advise or recommend what issue could be , as far as addressing ABS light that stays ON,,,,, THANKS; In Advance To All
You should find about 1000 ohms, don't know the exact specs but it's not that important. The sensor either becomes a short (close to zero ohms) or an open circuit this is most common.
There may also be a test you can do on the ABS system with a paper clip. Not sure if the 94 uses the same diagnostic system as the 98, but most Toyotas had this system for a while. There is a diagnostic port under the hood, usually on the passenger side of the engine bay. You would take a paper clip and connect two specific pins together (short them), then go inside the car and turn the key to the ignition ON, then count the amount of times the ABS light blinks on the dash. Once you have that recorded, you reference the number of flashes to a reference guide of codes. Each code is for a specific sensor or module, so you can find out if one of the front wheel speed sensors is not responding.
Here is a video of the ABS light reset procedure on a modern car with OBD2, but the process is similar for older models
Hopefully somebody with more knowledge of the 2ES platform could chime in.
Using a multimeter to measure resistance on each sensor is another way, but I find it to be more time consuming and you would need to remove the wheels and/or other trim to access the connector.
Paper clip method works on the 2ES. Since the one wheel was worked on it's fairly certain that sensor is faulty. Here's the FSM for additional info on how to get any codes.