NewSlang

Hey everyone! So after doing my engine oil change, I am now finally getting ready to do a transmission fluid drain and fill along with filter and gasket replacement. Now I know I've been very redundant in my probing as to weather or not it is safe to change the fluid for my transmission, but I just want to get some of your opinions on possibility that my transmission could be one of those that have suffered from damage and if the fluid was changed, it would result in irreparable damage.

So to start off I got my 1998 Lexus ES300 last November around 9-10 months ago with the supposed mileage of 45000 on the odometer. According to the carfax, I do not see any service history regarding the transmission fluid since 2005, when the odometer was at about 21,000. Since I've owned the vehicle, I've added 5,000 miles on it and have never changed the transmission fluid. The car as far as I can tell shifts perfectly fine; no problems accelerating, or going into reverse/drive/park etc. Lately though with the advent of summer and the heat that comes with it, (in my area in particular it has been reach average temps of about 110-117), I've noticed shifting becoming a little more "rough". For instance, sometimes the car would seem to "lurch" forward from first to second gear etc, and sometimes when going into reverse I would feel a distinct "thump". Now this does not happen all the time. I can say today that it did not happen really at all and the only difference between today and other days was that it wasn't anywhere near as hot as it has been the last several weeks. Today was about 85-90 average and my car didn't seem to have any shifting issues that I could tell.

So could my possible shifting hiccups be due the extremely hot weather? Another thing I would like to note is that even though I have not ever changed the transmission fluid and I can't find any records of the last time it was changed, the fluid as shown in this picture, looks absolutely fine:




Now, what appears strange is if you can notice there are "black marks" on the paper towel. I've realized that this residue comes from the transmission dipstick itself, but It's not at all a part of the fluid within the transmission. Just apart of the dipstick. Could this be a sign of the current transmission fluid being "burnt"? Or maybe the fluid was perhaps burnt in the past and left that residue? I've noticed a "pungent" smell that I believe comes from the burnt residue on the dipstick and when wiping the transmission fluid on a paper towel, the fluid also seems to carry this smell as well. Could this be a sign of my transmission going out and would it be safe to still change the fluid?

Again I apologize for all of the threads, I am just REALLY paranoid about performing this fluid change on my car, even though It is probably the most important fluid to change. As always, any and all suggestions/thoughts would be appreciated.

LeX2K

Black residue is usually clutch pack material it's normal. A large amount of course is not but every car I've serviced has at least some. BTW you can't tell a great deal by looking at the fluid wiped onto a rag or paper towel there is not enough fluid. Need to see it drained into white or clear container.

If it was my car I'd do several drain/fills as well as dropping the pan to clean it out, and clean the magnets. ATF does tend to be stinky, new or used.

sdls

If it was me, I’d change the transmission fluid and wouldn’t think about it again. If worries about dipstick residue are keeping you up at night then don’t trouble yourself with the fluid change. Any fluid is a lifetime fluid if it is kept through the lifetime of the component, after all.

75damien

what fluid does yours take regular ATF or type IV
i worked at Lexus 15 yrs. the regular atf should be drained and refilled every 30,000 but if you live in very hot climate wouldn’t hurt to do it at 25,000 far as the filter we don’t recommend it it’s a strainer not an actual normal filter that you see on chevys and gmc fords. I recommend just a drain and refill. Make sure you do it when it’s cold. It expands if it gets warm to hot which would give you an inaccurate reading. Good luck.

NewSlang

Well according to the manual, my car takes Dexron III. I was planning on using Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle ATF as it's suited for applications that call for Dexron III and I've heard that it is one of the best ATF money can buy. For the filter I've been told on my previous thread that it would be best to change out the filter as well as long as I'm draining the old fluid. I was planning on using this filter. Would there be any danger in doing so? The reason I want to change the filter as well is that even though the car is supposedly low mileage I just want to make sure that I do a more complete job since I don't really know when it was last changed.

LeX2K

The filter in your car is a super fine mesh, it can clog but only due to extreme neglect. I don't change them anymore because the filter that comes in the filter/gasket kits are made in China and looks iffy. You won't regret using Amsoil their ATF is stellar.

Oro

I agree it's not worth opening up for a filter.

What I would do is go off the fact it was last serviced at 21k/'05. ATF does not oxidize as badly and get subjected to the abuse of motor oil. I would just do a drain/fill with Dex III and add 10oz of Lubegard (red) protectant. Amsoil has a stellar reputation, but in less demanding applications I don't see the benefit if the service is done well - draining/filling every 25k or so. This partial periodic change is much easier than a full flush and more efficient (lest good fluid wasted over time; higher overall protection).

Nothing appears wrong w/the fluid you pictured; a drop test is best done by dropping fluid on a piece of paper (not towel) and letting it absorb/migrate. You can tell a bit from that, more so than just a wipe on a towel. Do not forget to service the PS at the same time as the AT and in the same way (drain/fill reservoir, add some Lubegard).

Your shift issues are likely motor mounts; they age with miles but also time - the low miles do not guarantee they are still intact.

NewSlang

Perhaps I'll just do a simple drain and fill and go from there. Dumb question but I was wondering; I bought the 2.5 Gallon bottle of Amsoil ATF and I was wondering how would you guys go about measuring the old and new fluid if you don't have any empty quart bottles lying around?

PFB

it’s simple. Just buy one, empty it and clean it. Lol

NewSlang

I'm just afraid of contaminating fresh fluid with old oil/fluid and soap/water if washed. I do have 4 empty quart engine oil bottles. Would it be safe to just wash these out with dish detergent then use them for fresh transmission fluid?

PFB

Just wash them well with dishwasher detergent, rinse with plain water and let dry. You’ll be fine.

LeX2K

Nope, nope nope don't use motor oil containers for your fresh fluid. Dish soap won't wash them clean, to do that is almost impossible it takes industrial strength products.

For filling get one of these

Funnel end fits in perfectly to the fill tube. Naturally you can use an old container for measuring what you got out.

NewSlang

As always I appreciate your advice! Thank you! I'm just really paranoid of botching up this job. I'm glad I was able to do my engine oil change successfully with no problems but with transmission fluid, having to empty out the old fluid, measure it exactly, and put the exact amount back in is a little nerve racking to me. Do you happen to know if this tool measures in quarts?

LeX2K

If it's the same as mine (it looks to be) it has millilitres, litres, pints and quart graduations.

Along with measuring you also need to check the fluid after a 20+ minutes drive (engine running) to verify the level. Well unless you know the exact level and measure accurately. The nice thing about that funnel is there is a twist valve, so you fill, twist, let it drain, fill twist etc. until you put in what you need.

FromFL

Why not use the dipstick? I'm not following the over complication about measuring what comes out.