Errors 2000 ES 300
09-16-20, 05:30 PM
#16
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
My main problem is finding where I can buy this part, and make sure that it isn't for federal models. From what you are saying, correct me if I'm wrong, I need to buy a CARB-compliant part from a legitimate seller.
09-17-20, 04:59 AM
#17
There is a cheap way out, universal style, but looks like a whole bunch of work because you have to have someone weld it in. Legal in CA:
https://www.autoanything.com/exhaust...50-state-legal
https://www.autoanything.com/exhaust...50-state-legal
09-17-20, 08:48 AM
#18
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
There is a cheap way out, universal style, but looks like a whole bunch of work because you have to have someone weld it in. Legal in CA:
https://www.autoanything.com/exhaust...50-state-legal
https://www.autoanything.com/exhaust...50-state-legal
09-19-20, 07:36 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you for the correction. Right now I am in the process of taking apart the car so I can get the view behind the engine. We have the part already to go, we just got to wait for the shop to open (Nappa, around 400$) then we can begin replacing the part and go from there. My father has taken apart the engine starting from where the air filter is, and clearing gaskets so we can see more clearly.
09-19-20, 05:35 PM
#20
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
There is a cheap way out, universal style, but looks like a whole bunch of work because you have to have someone weld it in. Legal in CA:
https://www.autoanything.com/exhaust...50-state-legal
https://www.autoanything.com/exhaust...50-state-legal
I meant to thank you. However, I talked to a mechanic about the part, and he is telling me that isn't the one. I have no way of knowing becuase it looks completely different from the one under my car. I don't know if it is allowed to share photos of said part with the members of this forum, but it if is I would so that everyone knows why I'm at a loss about this at the moment, and I really don't want to mess this one up.
Last edited by Bub3Ee2; 09-19-20 at 05:38 PM. Reason: Left out information
09-19-20, 05:53 PM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I wanted to clear this up with my mechanic, because we are at a huge disagreement between federal compliant vs CARB ones..I am indeed from CA, so does that mean I must order the CARB ones, or can I also order the fed ones?
09-21-20, 10:47 AM
#23
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Photo of Piping Below Car
Okay, so the cylinder on the top left, that is what we believe to be the catalytic converter bank 1. The cylinder with the shield and holes on the middle right is what my mechanic said was the bank 1, IF, there was a sensor behind the vertical pipe connecting to the left metal cylinder.
This is word for word what my mechanic said. And it threw me off. If someone here can correct me on this, I would appreciate it.
09-22-20, 07:24 AM
#24
Pole Position
You have a three-way catalytic converter system, Bank 1 and Bank 2 catalysts are only supplemental, hence much smaller. The cylinder on the top-left of the photo is indeed your Bank 1 catalyst, there should be a Bank 1 Sensor 1 on the exhaust manifold behind the engine, and the cylinder with perforated shielding on it is your Main catalyst, there is a Bank 1 Sensor 2 right behind it, which I can see on photo.
Did you try looking at A/F sensor output or diagnosing catalysts in any other way? As I wrote before, P0420 doesn't always mean that it is a bad catalyst, it may be a handful of other things, you need to make sure that it is a catalyst at fault before going out to replace it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Did you try looking at A/F sensor output or diagnosing catalysts in any other way? As I wrote before, P0420 doesn't always mean that it is a bad catalyst, it may be a handful of other things, you need to make sure that it is a catalyst at fault before going out to replace it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Last edited by Arsenii; 09-22-20 at 07:28 AM.
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LeX2K (09-22-20)
09-22-20, 10:20 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
You have a three-way catalytic converter system, Bank 1 and Bank 2 catalysts are only supplemental, hence much smaller. The cylinder on the top-left of the photo is indeed your Bank 1 catalyst, there should be a Bank 1 Sensor 1 on the exhaust manifold behind the engine, and the cylinder with perforated shielding on it is your Main catalyst, there is a Bank 1 Sensor 2 right behind it, which I can see on photo.
Did you try looking at A/F sensor output or diagnosing catalysts in any other way? As I wrote before, P0420 doesn't always mean that it is a bad catalyst, it may be a handful of other things, you need to make sure that it is a catalyst at fault before going out to replace it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Did you try looking at A/F sensor output or diagnosing catalysts in any other way? As I wrote before, P0420 doesn't always mean that it is a bad catalyst, it may be a handful of other things, you need to make sure that it is a catalyst at fault before going out to replace it.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
You all are awesome for helping me out with this, because I know that was the bank 1 cat., but I really wanted some confirmation and you gave that to me. Now all that's left is to double check the rest of my car. Arsenii, thank you, brother. Are there any other ways I can diagnose my car? Also, my battery needs replacing, can a bad battery also give me P0420 codes to come up? What other problems, from your experience, can the car be facing just from the problems I illustrated above?
Last edited by Bub3Ee2; 09-22-20 at 10:33 AM.
09-22-20, 02:43 PM
#26
Pole Position
The Mac Tools website says that ET110ANX is able to read live engine data stream, though I've never used one, so I cannot confirm it.
Below is a good video that shows basic steps on how to diagnose the P0420 code, though I need to add some details to it. In the video, he shows an old Subaru as an example, which came with O2 sensors, not Wide-Band A/F sensors that you have, so instead of seeing the output of a B1S1 switch around from 0.1-0.8V, you should see it stay close to, but not stuck on 3.2V. As for the B1S2, this is the Downstream sensor located behind all the catalysts, and you have the same O2 sensor there as that Subaru. The readouts of B1S2 should stay close to, but not stuck on 0.5V and not shift around rapidly, because, as the author said, it means that one of the catalysts is not doing its job. If both sensors appear to work fine, and you see B1S2 readings jump around, go to the part of the video where the author shows how to check catalysts with their temperature.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Below is a good video that shows basic steps on how to diagnose the P0420 code, though I need to add some details to it. In the video, he shows an old Subaru as an example, which came with O2 sensors, not Wide-Band A/F sensors that you have, so instead of seeing the output of a B1S1 switch around from 0.1-0.8V, you should see it stay close to, but not stuck on 3.2V. As for the B1S2, this is the Downstream sensor located behind all the catalysts, and you have the same O2 sensor there as that Subaru. The readouts of B1S2 should stay close to, but not stuck on 0.5V and not shift around rapidly, because, as the author said, it means that one of the catalysts is not doing its job. If both sensors appear to work fine, and you see B1S2 readings jump around, go to the part of the video where the author shows how to check catalysts with their temperature.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
09-26-20, 08:00 AM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The Mac Tools website says that ET110ANX is able to read live engine data stream, though I've never used one, so I cannot confirm it.
Below is a good video that shows basic steps on how to diagnose the P0420 code, though I need to add some details to it. In the video, he shows an old Subaru as an example, which came with O2 sensors, not Wide-Band A/F sensors that you have, so instead of seeing the output of a B1S1 switch around from 0.1-0.8V, you should see it stay close to, but not stuck on 3.2V. As for the B1S2, this is the Downstream sensor located behind all the catalysts, and you have the same O2 sensor there as that Subaru. The readouts of B1S2 should stay close to, but not stuck on 0.5V and not shift around rapidly, because, as the author said, it means that one of the catalysts is not doing its job. If both sensors appear to work fine, and you see B1S2 readings jump around, go to the part of the video where the author shows how to check catalysts with their temperature.
https://youtu.be/9VZ5K8n5jj0
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Below is a good video that shows basic steps on how to diagnose the P0420 code, though I need to add some details to it. In the video, he shows an old Subaru as an example, which came with O2 sensors, not Wide-Band A/F sensors that you have, so instead of seeing the output of a B1S1 switch around from 0.1-0.8V, you should see it stay close to, but not stuck on 3.2V. As for the B1S2, this is the Downstream sensor located behind all the catalysts, and you have the same O2 sensor there as that Subaru. The readouts of B1S2 should stay close to, but not stuck on 0.5V and not shift around rapidly, because, as the author said, it means that one of the catalysts is not doing its job. If both sensors appear to work fine, and you see B1S2 readings jump around, go to the part of the video where the author shows how to check catalysts with their temperature.
https://youtu.be/9VZ5K8n5jj0
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I also notice that the car can have a smell of slightly smokey pancake syrup. It's not always evident, it doesn't always have that smell, but I know it isn't a good one. Could it be that some of the gaskets and hoses are leaking or ripped/damaged? I tried opening up the hood and I don't notice any apparent leaks.
Sorry, I'm not sure if I should take this new problem to a different thread. My apologies if so.
Thank you all. Seriously. Cheers!
09-26-20, 02:18 PM
#28
Pole Position
If your cats are worn out, you will definitely notice a bit more exhaust smell, though that said, it may indicate an exhaust leak, which may very well trigger the code you are having issues with right now. What you can do is start-up the car and spray some soapy water around the exhaust, especially near catalysts, as well as all the joints and other areas prone to leak, just be sure to do it on a relatively cold car, since otherwise liquid will evaporate and you are risking warping some parts because of rapid cooling.
As for the "smokey pancake syrup", I am really not sure of what to make of that.. Does it smell like an oil? Was there any work done on the vehicle recently? Take a look at the exhaust and other parts prone to heat-up to see if you have any stains from something dripping on them, that may be your smell. It may also be from the exhaust, since you have the inefficiency code. Look if all the liquids are topped off, if not, see if the level would drop even further with time. In any way, just make sure it is not getting stronger.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
As for the "smokey pancake syrup", I am really not sure of what to make of that.. Does it smell like an oil? Was there any work done on the vehicle recently? Take a look at the exhaust and other parts prone to heat-up to see if you have any stains from something dripping on them, that may be your smell. It may also be from the exhaust, since you have the inefficiency code. Look if all the liquids are topped off, if not, see if the level would drop even further with time. In any way, just make sure it is not getting stronger.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
10-01-20, 06:59 PM
#29
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
P0420 & c1201
After replacing the bank 2 cat., made sure the mechanic left no leaks, and after exactly 38 miles the check engine light and track off lights come on. After checking with the computer, I still get the C1201 & P0420 codes: Engine communication circuit & catalyst system efficiency below bank 1, respectively. The problem has not been fixed, but maybe the following paragraph has some insight that can allow everyone who is having this same problem something to work with. At this point, the only thing going on in my head is replacing the front catalyst, in front of the engine.
The mechanic showed me the catalyst in front of the engine once he removed the bank 2 catalyst (we had the car elevated and we saw from below using a flash light). The mesh that is supposed to be there isn't, so that means I have to order another catalyst and gaskets. So although I replaced the bank 1 catalyst, now I think the problem is coming from the catalyst that is in front of the engine when you open the hood.
I hope someone can help me, given that the above makes sense to everyone. I really have to thank everyone who has helped me thus far. Today is a really bad day.
On the bright side, the car has less fumes, and runs a whole lot more smoothly, but it isn't quite there yet.
The mechanic showed me the catalyst in front of the engine once he removed the bank 2 catalyst (we had the car elevated and we saw from below using a flash light). The mesh that is supposed to be there isn't, so that means I have to order another catalyst and gaskets. So although I replaced the bank 1 catalyst, now I think the problem is coming from the catalyst that is in front of the engine when you open the hood.
I hope someone can help me, given that the above makes sense to everyone. I really have to thank everyone who has helped me thus far. Today is a really bad day.
On the bright side, the car has less fumes, and runs a whole lot more smoothly, but it isn't quite there yet.
10-01-20, 07:32 PM
#30
Lexus Fanatic
Did you happen to take a picture of the inside of the catalytic?