How to protect headlight assembly from moisture leaks at time of install
#1
4th Gear
Thread Starter
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Excuse my post, I'm don't post often, In researching buying options it seems TYC/DEPO/Dorman/etc are all about the same quality, from comments the concerns for any of these seem to be fit and how long before they start to show wear. But I remember seeing comments a few years back about seal and moisture getting into them. Does anyone know a way to add some additional sealant at time of install to help guard against moisture leaks?
parts:
Replaces OE Number: 8117033561, 8113033561 & Replaces Partslink Number: LX2503125, LX2502125
parts:
Replaces OE Number: 8117033561, 8113033561 & Replaces Partslink Number: LX2503125, LX2502125
#2
Lexus Champion
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TYC is the best aftermarket they are generally high quality. You should not have to do anything to a new headlight.
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mballew (11-02-20)
#3
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I bought brand new OEM headlights when I had a shop do a retrofit and install them. They used some sort of seal all around the edges to prevent what you’re talking about. Maybe try calling a headlight shop because I’m pretty sure it’s a common thing so the headlights will stay nice and pretty over time..
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mballew (11-02-20)
#4
Lexus Champion
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You're thinking of butyl tape. I've noticed that non OEM bulbs such as LED kits don't always have an O-ring that seals properly something to check for.
#6
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Butyl tape is a good option and just like funcrusher described, L2K id'd. You can get it at Ace and similar, nothing exotic. This is the first love of all RV owners to stop the inevitable leaks and gaps in the cladding from travel/flexing, aging, etc. Can come in narrow strips or wide-ish sheets.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fabral-1...40BT/207149821
I'm re-sealing some volvo headlights and another way to skin that cat is to just take some clear silicone sealant and lay a bead in the same place, the gap between the lens and the housing where it cliups together and there is a gasket in-between. Both should work fine if done carefully.
Also if you are putting in new plastic headlights, I strongly suggest starting a regimen of UV coating them to prevent the inevitable yellowing. I redid the headlights on the 2002 and used a UV protecting non-yellowing clear and it has held up well with no maintenance for four years (I should have been doing more maintenance). I know have some 303 and will coat it two to three times a years.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fabral-1...40BT/207149821
I'm re-sealing some volvo headlights and another way to skin that cat is to just take some clear silicone sealant and lay a bead in the same place, the gap between the lens and the housing where it cliups together and there is a gasket in-between. Both should work fine if done carefully.
Also if you are putting in new plastic headlights, I strongly suggest starting a regimen of UV coating them to prevent the inevitable yellowing. I redid the headlights on the 2002 and used a UV protecting non-yellowing clear and it has held up well with no maintenance for four years (I should have been doing more maintenance). I know have some 303 and will coat it two to three times a years.
#7
4th Gear
Thread Starter
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I researched the butyl tape, it seems they use it when they have to separate the assembly and on reassembly they heat and use butyl tape to seal the casing. I'm purchasing aftermarket assemblies which don't seem to require this step, so maybe the silicon sealant on seams of assembly is a good safety measure, and maybe use it around entries points for bulbs/wiring? what are your thoughts on this?
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#8
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Here's a mercifully short video on using sealant. I'm doing this later this week on a car like this. I'm pulling the bumper cover off and headlights out so I can be very thorough unlike here. But you'll get the idea.
There are a lot of videos you can google and debate the methods; this is adequate for me and should be unless the leaks are really severe.
There are a lot of videos you can google and debate the methods; this is adequate for me and should be unless the leaks are really severe.
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