Stall on bottom end, runs crappy and burns fuel until warmed up to temp
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
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Stall on bottom end, runs crappy and burns fuel until warmed up to temp. Stall on rev is all the time, hit throttle and it dips then picks up and gains rpm great just initial stall. Have a brake light stays on until I get it to accel great and it will go off while on throttle then comes on when I let off... Not sure if its linked or not haven't figured out how to pull and codes for it yet. I'm pretty confused but I'm thinking twords the VVT BUT npt SURE where to start here any pointers? I am a mechanic and know enough and have shop and versus to use also, will update with more info of car history when I can.
TIA for any help, got lucky getting into this beauty of a car so I gotta fix her up. 2000 Lexus ES300 3L
TIA for any help, got lucky getting into this beauty of a car so I gotta fix her up. 2000 Lexus ES300 3L
#2
Pole Position
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Hello,
Any Check Engine Lights?
Sounds like the issue may be a result of a vacuum leak. To make sure, check your Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT), they should be close to zero. As well as a leak, it can be a defective MAF or A/F sensor, if it will show incorrect data, the ECU will not be able to adjust. For the MAF sensor, the readouts should be 3.3 - 4.7 gm/sec when idling, and 10.4 - 15.4 gm/sec when revving the car to 2500 RPM without load, and for the A/F sensor, you should see value close to 3.4-ish volts, it shouldn't fluctuate from min to max like in the olden days of O2 sensors, but it should not be stuck on one value as well.
As for the brake light, are you sure you have enough fluid in the brake system? There is not a whole lot of reasons that light can stay on, low brake fluid and worn out brake components are among the most common ones.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Any Check Engine Lights?
Sounds like the issue may be a result of a vacuum leak. To make sure, check your Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT), they should be close to zero. As well as a leak, it can be a defective MAF or A/F sensor, if it will show incorrect data, the ECU will not be able to adjust. For the MAF sensor, the readouts should be 3.3 - 4.7 gm/sec when idling, and 10.4 - 15.4 gm/sec when revving the car to 2500 RPM without load, and for the A/F sensor, you should see value close to 3.4-ish volts, it shouldn't fluctuate from min to max like in the olden days of O2 sensors, but it should not be stuck on one value as well.
As for the brake light, are you sure you have enough fluid in the brake system? There is not a whole lot of reasons that light can stay on, low brake fluid and worn out brake components are among the most common ones.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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