02 ES300 Coolant System Issue
#1
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I picked up an 02 ES300 from a buddy that was going to junk it because of a leaking radiator. Car has over 200K and I DOUBT they took care of it (single owner though). I replaced the radiator and the engine stays cool. However I have only had it running for a few minutes
as I'm dealing with several other issues.
Now I have the overfill bubbling, which to me generally means:
1) blockage, as in thermostat is bad
2) water pump is bad or worse case
3) blown head gasket
I went to remove the thermostat to "test" it and it appears they didn't have a thermostat or it's in pieces inside their coolant system somewhere as I only pulled out the rubber gasket and ring for the thermostat but NO thermostat (spring, etc)
CAN this mean a bad water pump and is there a simple way to test VS taking off the water pump that's on there? Or does this mean blown head gasket (at which point I'm going to put in a new engine and transmission)
as I'm dealing with several other issues.
Now I have the overfill bubbling, which to me generally means:
1) blockage, as in thermostat is bad
2) water pump is bad or worse case
3) blown head gasket
I went to remove the thermostat to "test" it and it appears they didn't have a thermostat or it's in pieces inside their coolant system somewhere as I only pulled out the rubber gasket and ring for the thermostat but NO thermostat (spring, etc)
CAN this mean a bad water pump and is there a simple way to test VS taking off the water pump that's on there? Or does this mean blown head gasket (at which point I'm going to put in a new engine and transmission)
#2
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Put in a thermostat and the re-test. You cant start guessing about bigger issues if you don't have basic things in place working.
Water pump and head gasket on these rarely fail, so start with the basics.
Water pump and head gasket on these rarely fail, so start with the basics.
#3
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wouldn't NO THERMOSTAT in there allow the coolant to flow and NOT cause the issue.... I don't see ADDING a thermostat is going to give me any different results vs simply not having one in there and allowing it to free flow.
That is why I don't think that is the issue and it's something more serious such as the water pump and or head gasket. The person I got it from allowed it to overheat to the point the car shut off.
That is why I don't think that is the issue and it's something more serious such as the water pump and or head gasket. The person I got it from allowed it to overheat to the point the car shut off.
#4
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If you suspect a HG then pressurize each cylinder with air and see if it leaks into the cooling system. Or use a block tester.
#6
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@Lexus2000
Thank you SO MUCH! That was the fastest and easiest test I've ever done on a car LOL. Unfortunetly it resulted in proving I have a bad head gasket.
The fluid went from blue to yellow almost instantly after the first squeeze proving there is without a doubt exhaust in the coolant. Now to decide if I'm going for a used engine with
low miles or pulling the engine and doing a complete overhaul.
Thank you SO MUCH! That was the fastest and easiest test I've ever done on a car LOL. Unfortunetly it resulted in proving I have a bad head gasket.
The fluid went from blue to yellow almost instantly after the first squeeze proving there is without a doubt exhaust in the coolant. Now to decide if I'm going for a used engine with
low miles or pulling the engine and doing a complete overhaul.
#7
Lexus Fanatic
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Depends how badly the engine was over heated which is unknowable to you. If it was severely cooked then it will range from major work to the engine has to be scrapped. If you can find a low-ish mileage engine that's the way to go.
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#8
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new engine management system and had it tuned....
IF I do an engine swap for the exact same engine just with lower miles... do I need to go to the dealership and have cams timed, or ANYTHING.... or is it just plug and play?
#9
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Complicated question. If the donor is exactly the same including the engine harness it's a direct swap. If the harness is different you'll have to transfer it from your car to the new engine. You should at least replace the rear main seal. Could also do a timing belt job it's easy when the engine is out of the car.
When separating the transmission from the engine keep the torque converter seated into the transmission don't remove it or allow it to slip out, otherwise you can damage the seals in the transmission plus the torque converter is tricky to get seated properly again.
When separating the transmission from the engine keep the torque converter seated into the transmission don't remove it or allow it to slip out, otherwise you can damage the seals in the transmission plus the torque converter is tricky to get seated properly again.
#10
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Complicated question. If the donor is exactly the same including the engine harness it's a direct swap. If the harness is different you'll have to transfer it from your car to the new engine. You should at least replace the rear main seal. Could also do a timing belt job it's easy when the engine is out of the car.
When separating the transmission from the engine keep the torque converter seated into the transmission don't remove it or allow it to slip out, otherwise you can damage the seals in the transmission plus the torque converter is tricky to get seated properly again.
When separating the transmission from the engine keep the torque converter seated into the transmission don't remove it or allow it to slip out, otherwise you can damage the seals in the transmission plus the torque converter is tricky to get seated properly again.
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