Rear Speaker Connector P/N? 1995 ES300
#16
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
#17
Pit Crew
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#18
Lexus Fanatic
Don't use dielectric grease on low current connections, it can act as an insulator. For your speedo problem at this point you need a scan tool capable of graphing that way you can look at the data in real time. Without it you're guessing.
#19
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
what is a scan tool going to tell me?... the odometer is working.. the ecu is getting a constant signal... i'm guessing?...
#20
Pit Crew
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it seems to me the needle is no longer able to overcome the inertia it has... either a voltage problem.. or... deteriorating needle coil?...
#21
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
the dielectric grease is for the coil boots... i don't know if that could be a problem or not...
#22
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
i'm leaning towards a ground terminal corroded somewhat... hopefully... i do have a scanner (innova something or other) and i guess i could watch engine and vehicle rpm...
#23
Pole Position
i haven't really looked into the detail of this job.... replacing plugs, coils, injectors, pvc valve, whatever else... but i know i have to remove the intake plenum... that doesn't seem impossible... or really difficult if you know what you have to do.. i figure doing it all in one fell swoop is the most effective way to go... i might be wrong...
You can find plenty of good thread on how to replace spark plugs and valve cover gaskets, once you take the intake off, it's a matter of unscrewing 8 bolts on each cover to replace valve cover gaskets. Injectors last a while if you use good fuel, and we already discussed coils.
Are you sure the odometer is working as intended and not making a mile appear longer than it is?
Was the sensor from junkyard working as intended?
Check the operation of the sensor by rotating either the sensor or one of the front wheels and seeing if you have 4 signals per revolution, and that it is consistent. You can also check if your odometer is showing true mileage using GPS navigator, if so, it is probably a bad cluster.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
#24
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
#25
Driver School Candidate
I think that you might be making this too difficult by half.
That connector is for an OEM speaker. I hope that you are not thinking of putting more OEM speakers in this car.
You can get a lot better-sounding speakers for a lot less money. And none are going to need that connector. All that is running back there is a 2 pair wire to each door.
Your biggest challenge is going to be determining which is + and which is -..
You probably already know this with aftermarket speakers but you will want to get a Toyota mounting bracket and possibly a 1/2" spacer. This is if your speaker sits a little deep for the window to come down.
Those 2 things, for both sides of the rear speakers, should not set you back more than $20 total.
Beyond that, most speakers come with a wire to connect them with. Just cut off the OEM connector and wire in the replacement speaker's wire.
If you want to get fancy, you can pick up a quick disconnect kit to wire in for only a few bucks.
But it is not like you will probably ever need the OEM connector again.
That connector is for an OEM speaker. I hope that you are not thinking of putting more OEM speakers in this car.
You can get a lot better-sounding speakers for a lot less money. And none are going to need that connector. All that is running back there is a 2 pair wire to each door.
Your biggest challenge is going to be determining which is + and which is -..
You probably already know this with aftermarket speakers but you will want to get a Toyota mounting bracket and possibly a 1/2" spacer. This is if your speaker sits a little deep for the window to come down.
Those 2 things, for both sides of the rear speakers, should not set you back more than $20 total.
Beyond that, most speakers come with a wire to connect them with. Just cut off the OEM connector and wire in the replacement speaker's wire.
If you want to get fancy, you can pick up a quick disconnect kit to wire in for only a few bucks.
But it is not like you will probably ever need the OEM connector again.
#26
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I think that you might be making this too difficult by half.
That connector is for an OEM speaker. I hope that you are not thinking of putting more OEM speakers in this car.
You can get a lot better-sounding speakers for a lot less money. And none are going to need that connector. All that is running back there is a 2 pair wire to each door.
Your biggest challenge is going to be determining which is + and which is -..
You probably already know this with aftermarket speakers but you will want to get a Toyota mounting bracket and possibly a 1/2" spacer. This is if your speaker sits a little deep for the window to come down.
Those 2 things, for both sides of the rear speakers, should not set you back more than $20 total.
Beyond that, most speakers come with a wire to connect them with. Just cut off the OEM connector and wire in the replacement speaker's wire.
If you want to get fancy, you can pick up a quick disconnect kit to wire in for only a few bucks.
But it is not like you will probably ever need the OEM connector again.
That connector is for an OEM speaker. I hope that you are not thinking of putting more OEM speakers in this car.
You can get a lot better-sounding speakers for a lot less money. And none are going to need that connector. All that is running back there is a 2 pair wire to each door.
Your biggest challenge is going to be determining which is + and which is -..
You probably already know this with aftermarket speakers but you will want to get a Toyota mounting bracket and possibly a 1/2" spacer. This is if your speaker sits a little deep for the window to come down.
Those 2 things, for both sides of the rear speakers, should not set you back more than $20 total.
Beyond that, most speakers come with a wire to connect them with. Just cut off the OEM connector and wire in the replacement speaker's wire.
If you want to get fancy, you can pick up a quick disconnect kit to wire in for only a few bucks.
But it is not like you will probably ever need the OEM connector again.
Last edited by jerlands; 03-16-21 at 10:55 AM.
#27
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Denso does make some parts under their name, separately from Toyota, but I wasn't able to find coils for your specific car made by Denso, maybe there were some, but got discontinued. The only way I know to get OEM coils is to go to the dealership. You can also get NGK coils, which are pretty descent, but again, as far as I know, there is no reason to swap neither coils nor injectors at this point.
Where did you get the new one that is currently in your vehicle?
Are you sure the odometer is working as intended and not making a mile appear longer than it is?
Was the sensor from junkyard working as intended?
Check the operation of the sensor by rotating either the sensor or one of the front wheels and seeing if you have 4 signals per revolution, and that it is consistent. You can also check if your odometer is showing true mileage using GPS navigator, if so, it is probably a bad cluster.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Are you sure the odometer is working as intended and not making a mile appear longer than it is?
Was the sensor from junkyard working as intended?
Check the operation of the sensor by rotating either the sensor or one of the front wheels and seeing if you have 4 signals per revolution, and that it is consistent. You can also check if your odometer is showing true mileage using GPS navigator, if so, it is probably a bad cluster.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
#28
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
After 25 years of use, it is worth while to do some preventative maintenance while you are in there..
Check the operation of the sensor by rotating either the sensor or one of the front wheels and seeing if you have 4 signals per revolution, and that it is consistent. You can also check if your odometer is showing true mileage using GPS navigator, if so, it is probably a bad cluster.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Check the operation of the sensor by rotating either the sensor or one of the front wheels and seeing if you have 4 signals per revolution, and that it is consistent. You can also check if your odometer is showing true mileage using GPS navigator, if so, it is probably a bad cluster.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
#29
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
i had just the dab for the boots.. i picked up today 3oz. of grease and some contact cleaner.. if weather permits tomorrow i'll clean and grease the contact for the sensor and go on from there to the grounds... i'm not intending to use a lot of the grease... just enough to coat the contacts and mating services and seal the wires...
Last edited by jerlands; 03-16-21 at 11:28 PM.
#30
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Well.. I'm not so stupid after all... maybe... i found a ground that seems to have resolved the speedometer (loose connection on ED ground point.). i've test it numerous starts and stops... who knows though... but... it didn't take care of the engine feedback in the stereo system...