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I'm replacing the rear speakers in a 1995 ES300 and would like to know the part number for the male end side of the connector (speaker end)... or... however they're sold... i can't seem to find replacements..
I am not exactly sure what you mean, can you please elaborate on the issue you are having?
Here you can find a PDF file that has Part Numbers for all connectors in a car, from what I know, the P/N for the Rear Speaker Connector is 90980-10825. The question is that I am not sure how it can help if you are planning on installing new speakers..?
I am not exactly sure what you mean, can you please elaborate on the issue you are having?
Here you can find a PDF file that has Part Numbers for all connectors in a car, from what I know, the P/N for the Rear Speaker Connector is 90980-10825. The question is that I am not sure how it can help if you are planning on installing new speakers..?
Hope this helps and best of luck!
unfortunately.. the part you listed isn't correct... i've searched a number of Lexus part distributors online... nothing... the connector i'm interested in is connected to the speaker off a short lead.. maybe 7 inches... it connects then to the harness... here is an image... i am replacing the rear speakers and wanted to replace the wiring also... since i didn't like the wiring that came off my speakers, i wound up pulling the wires with connectors off a junked model and have just soldered them on... this connector has a stay that locks it in place on the frame..... i think 92-95 the connector is the same.. but it seems they changed it on the 96 and up models because i'm able to find those but nothing earlier...
Does the one below look right? P/N: 90980-10833, but it has been discontinued, so it will be tough to obtain one of those.. What I could suggest is to replace both of your connectors with something that is more readily available, for example with the one that came with 3rd-gen ES300, or whatever you can find at the junkyard. You can replace just the connector, without cutting any wires, making this mod completely reversible. If you need to, I can add another post to the thread I linked above on how to de-pin non-waterproof interior connectors.
Yes... that does look like it... and i'd like to know how you found it... as for the wire (harness) I've already used a set I pulled from the graveyard. Those from my speakers the insulation seemed as though it were getting brittle. I also needed the speaker plastic mount because mine disintegrated when i removed the speaker. I'm at the point now where I'm trying to resolve ignition interference, or whatever it is. The receiver plays fine when it isn't running so i'm going to start by cleaning the 4 engine compartment grounds. it has 84k now and i'm pretty sure the plugs/coils/injectors were never changed... along with a fuel filter so that will be my step after...
Well, I went for an evening stroll around Google and managed to find a more complete version of the file I linked before, you can find it here.
I am really not into sound and stuff, not sure if there is much I can help you with.. Could it be a condenser in the engine bay..? One thing I can tell for sure is that it is way too early for coils and injectors to start giving you issues, if you do have only 84,000 miles on the clock; those would definitely let you know when they will need attention, so I wouldn't suggest replacing those unless there are some noticeable issues. As for plugs and filter, it is never a bad idea to swap those out, especially if you are insure about service intervals. Old plugs put more load on coils, which may result in their premature failure.
Well, I went for an evening stroll around Google and managed to find a more complete version of the file I linked before, you can find it here.
I am really not into sound and stuff, not sure if there is much I can help you with.. Could it be a condenser in the engine bay..? One thing I can tell for sure is that it is way too early for coils and injectors to start giving you issues, if you do have only 84,000 miles on the clock; those would definitely let you know when they will need attention, so I wouldn't suggest replacing those unless there are some noticeable issues. As for plugs and filter, it is never a bad idea to swap those out, especially if you are insure about service intervals. Old plugs put more load on coils, which may result in their premature failure.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i don't see much sense in changing out the plugs without changing out the coils? in order to change the plugs... don't you have to remove the intake plenum anyway?... and thanks for the manual... lots stuff in there...
i don't see much sense in changing out the plugs without changing out the coils? in order to change the plugs... don't you have to remove the intake plenum anyway?... and thanks for the manual... lots stuff in there...
I am not sure exactly, but it seems like you should have all six coils, unlike pre-facelift 3rd-gen with Wasted Spark system and only three coils, so you will most likely need to take the plenum off for that. The problem is that an OEM quality set of coils will set you back a few pennies, about $150 for each OEM or $70 for each NGK coil to be precise, and you have six of them to replace. With that, I don't think it would be wise to replace your coils unless there is something actually wrong with them. What you do need to consider replacing while at it are Plenum and Valve Cover gaskets, since they will be readily accessible once you take the plenum off.
I am not sure exactly, but it seems like you should have all six coils, unlike pre-facelift 3rd-gen with Wasted Spark system and only three coils, so you will most likely need to take the plenum off for that. The problem is that an OEM quality set of coils will set you back a few pennies, about $150 for each OEM or $70 for each NGK coil to be precise, and you have six of them to replace. With that, I don't think it would be wise to replace your coils unless there is something actually wrong with them. What you do need to consider replacing while at it are Plenum and Valve Cover gaskets, since they will be readily accessible once you take the plenum off.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i picked up 6 DENSO UF204 ignition coils for about $120... the set came with DENSO 4504 spark plugs but i was going to put iridium in? I also picked up the plenum gaskets but I didn't think about changing the valve cover gasket. I'm guessing that is problematic?... so are you putting in the OEM or a different aftermarket?. I read the plenum throat gasket shout be OEM because it's steel and not paper but that really has nothing to do with valve cover gaskets except the fact it's a gasket...
6 Denso coils with plugs included for $120..? That definitely smells fishy.. The fact that you got plugs in that kit that should be about $40 all on their own, each of the coils you got costs at least 5 times cheaper than NGK or equivalent Denso coil from a refutable supplier. UF204 number that you provided does not exist, you can only find it on eBay, so I can pretty much guarantee with an utmost certainty that you got yourself some counterfeit parts, which should be returned to the seller immediately. It's pretty much as it always is in life - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.. I know that because all 2 times I tried getting "genuine" parts off of eBay or Amazon, I ended up doing the same job twice, and that also includes valve cover gaskets, all I can tell about it is that it was not a fun adventure.
As for gaskets, OEM is pretty much a gold standard, especially their shaft seals, but those could get pricey. Fel-Pro would probably be a second best option for both valve cover gaskets, you can find those on RockAuto, or any other local car parts shop. As for plenum gasket, Fel-Pro would also work great, but it costs about the same as OEM, so it doesn't make a whole lot of sense..
6 Denso coils with plugs included for $120..? That definitely smells fishy.. The fact that you got plugs in that kit that should be about $40 all on their own, each of the coils you got costs at least 5 times cheaper than NGK or equivalent Denso coil from a refutable supplier. UF204 number that you provided does not exist, you can only find it on eBay, so I can pretty much guarantee with an utmost certainty that you got yourself some counterfeit parts, which should be returned to the seller immediately. It's pretty much as it always is in life - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.. I know that because all 2 times I tried getting "genuine" parts off of eBay or Amazon, I ended up doing the same job twice, and that also includes valve cover gaskets, all I can tell about it is that it was not a fun adventure.
As for gaskets, OEM is pretty much a gold standard, especially their shaft seals, but those could get pricey. Fel-Pro would probably be a second best option for both valve cover gaskets, you can find those on RockAuto, or any other local car parts shop. As for plenum gasket, Fel-Pro would also work great, but it costs about the same as OEM, so it doesn't make a whole lot of sense..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i know about counterfeit parts... i got hit with a knock off speed sensor that ran me in circles... i didn't have the sense to check it... i just assumed... thanks for the direction on the valve cover gaskets... i've already ordered them because i saw they came in a kit with spark plug o-rings... i see the same DENSO coils near the same price.. i bought on ebay from this listing... https://www.ebay.com/itm/DENSO-4504-...72.m2749.l2649
6 Denso coils with plugs included for $120..? That definitely smells fishy.. The fact that you got plugs in that kit that should be about $40 all on their own, each of the coils you got costs at least 5 times cheaper than NGK or equivalent Denso coil from a refutable supplier. UF204 number that you provided does not exist, you can only find it on eBay, so I can pretty much guarantee with an utmost certainty that you got yourself some counterfeit parts, which should be returned to the seller immediately. It's pretty much as it always is in life - if something seems too good to be true, it probably is.. I know that because all 2 times I tried getting "genuine" parts off of eBay or Amazon, I ended up doing the same job twice, and that also includes valve cover gaskets, all I can tell about it is that it was not a fun adventure.
As for gaskets, OEM is pretty much a gold standard, especially their shaft seals, but those could get pricey. Fel-Pro would probably be a second best option for both valve cover gaskets, you can find those on RockAuto, or any other local car parts shop. As for plenum gasket, Fel-Pro would also work great, but it costs about the same as OEM, so it doesn't make a whole lot of sense..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i haven't really looked into the detail of this job.... replacing plugs, coils, injectors, pvc valve, whatever else... but i know i have to remove the intake plenum... that doesn't seem impossible... or really difficult if you know what you have to do.. i figure doing it all in one fell swoop is the most effective way to go... i might be wrong...
Unless you buy from an established, legit auto vendor or an actual dealer you're probably buying fakes.
well.. i guess the question is whether or not the coils i purchased are Denso manufactured... my understanding is Desno has opened up to after market?...
Unless you buy from an established, legit auto vendor or an actual dealer you're probably buying fakes.
about that speed sensor... when i got smart and test it and realized it didn't work.. i ordered an OEM straight away... but as it was going to take a week to get it i hit the graveyard and pulled one... immediately the speedometer didn't work.. then.. suddenly.. it jumped up and started working... i didn't understand and assumed the computer was making some adjustments... so it worked until i replaced the unit with new... and it worked until.. it didn't.. and that was just after i stopped for gas... so about a couple miles down the road it starts working again.. and i think... this must be the computer getting hung up or something...this goes on... it's working... i replace the radio and speakers... then... it doesn't work... and it still doesn't work... so for like 6 miles on and off i'm wondering what is going on.. then it dawns on me... check the odometer.. it's working... so i hit the dash.. and... boing...
03-12-21, 02:51 AM
Rear Speaker Connector P/N? 1995 ES300
