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2000 ES300 Riddle

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Old 03-28-21, 09:37 AM
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jbl-1985
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Default 2000 ES300 Riddle

So after having some front end work done, along with the transmissions serviced, the car will not stay on. Meaning, it simply won't idle. Have to keep the engine revved to stay on. All of the vacuum hoses are in tact, nothing seems obvious. Any thoughts as to what else would cause this?
Old 03-28-21, 11:01 AM
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HomerJay
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Did you bring the car back to the shop that did the work?
What are the details of the various services and work performed?
Check engine light on?
Old 03-28-21, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by HomerJay
Did you bring the car back to the shop that did the work?
What are the details of the various services and work performed?
Check engine light on?
CEL is not on. Axle boots were leaking, so the front axles and boots were replaced along with left and right control arm bushings. Also serviced the transmission. And yes the car is back at that shop, to be looked over tomorrow.
Old 03-29-21, 08:32 AM
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Sounds like Idle Air Control Valve. It was probably ready to stick shut, before you brought it to them. It's probably just a coincidence.

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Old 03-29-21, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by BROCKES300
Sounds like Idle Air Control Valve. It was probably ready to stick shut, before you brought it to them. It's probably just a coincidence.

​​​​
Thanks - will pass it along to the shop for them to consider, if they aren't already.
Old 03-29-21, 05:28 PM
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wmj259
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Check your ground wires
Old 03-30-21, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BROCKES300
Sounds like Idle Air Control Valve. It was probably ready to stick shut, before you brought it to them. It's probably just a coincidence.

​​​​
Well the diagnosis was for the IACV. Replacing it accordingly. As a result, I checked the same part on my 99RX and it is a little sticky. Been blasting it with throttle body cleaner but not getting the results I expected. Feel like hosing some WD40 down the IACV port, but is that a good idea I wonder?
Old 03-30-21, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jbl-1985
Well the diagnosis was for the IACV. Replacing it accordingly. As a result, I checked the same part on my 99RX and it is a little sticky. Been blasting it with throttle body cleaner but not getting the results I expected. Feel like hosing some WD40 down the IACV port, but is that a good idea I wonder?
No, just use the cleaner. WD40 would probably make it get gummed up even faster. You could take it off if you really wanted. I just clean it every 3 oil changes.
Old 03-30-21, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BROCKES300
No, just use the cleaner. WD40 would probably make it get gummed up even faster. You could take it off if you really wanted. I just clean it every 3 oil changes.
Well maybe the unit on my RX is no good too. When I spray the cleaner, it turns freely but when I return a few hours later to spray again, it is pretty sticky again, that is when I try to turn the valve back and forth. I took the black actuator off but in order to take the entire IACV off it looks like you have to take the entire throttle body off, and I'm not sure I want to go that route, at least for now.
Old 03-30-21, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by jbl-1985
Well maybe the unit on my RX is no good too. When I spray the cleaner, it turns freely but when I return a few hours later to spray again, it is pretty sticky again, that is when I try to turn the valve back and forth. I took the black actuator off but in order to take the entire IACV off it looks like you have to take the entire throttle body off, and I'm not sure I want to go that route, at least for now.
If you have a very small 1/4 inch ratchet, with a philips end; you might be able to get to all of the screws. However they strip and brake off very easily. You can also remove just that side of the intake tube/throttle body, fairly easy.

If I had an RX or Sienna, I definitely wouldn't want to mess with taking off the entire plenum either...
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Old 03-30-21, 09:11 PM
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Hayk
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Disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the middle of the throttle body and connects with the IACV. Plug the exit hole with your finger or something that can make an air tight seal. Fill the IACV with carb cleaner and let it sit for 10 seconds, then release the finger and let it drain out. I found that to be the best method if you can’t take it off to clean.

Removing the IACV is not easy and definitely not recommended if you don’t have new screws or tools to extract stripped screws.
Old 03-31-21, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Hayk
Disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the middle of the throttle body and connects with the IACV. Plug the exit hole with your finger or something that can make an air tight seal. Fill the IACV with carb cleaner and let it sit for 10 seconds, then release the finger and let it drain out. I found that to be the best method if you can’t take it off to clean.

Removing the IACV is not easy and definitely not recommended if you don’t have new screws or tools to extract stripped screws.
Well, after nearly a can of brake cleaner "Blasting", the valve is finally loose and free turning. I can only gather it was pretty sticky in there. Also, I saw a video on YouTube on how to replace the IACV on a 1st gen RX, and all you have to do is remove the intake on the right side, which seems easy enough, only with an RX, you have to remove the windshield wipers and the cowl underneath those to get proper access.

Am definitely seeing real results with dousing the valve with the cleaner. For good measure, I will use another can over the next few days to at least be sure in my mind that the valve is clean. Let's hope anyway!

Last edited by jbl-1985; 03-31-21 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 03-31-21, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BROCKES300
Sounds like Idle Air Control Valve. It was probably ready to stick shut, before you brought it to them. It's probably just a coincidence.

​​​​
Just got the ES300 back from the shop. IACV replaced, car runs like new again.
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