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Wait, so you do have 12V coming to the Pin 4 of the Fuel Pump Connector? If so, that is all you need to know.
Check that you also have Ground coming to the pump, you can simply put a test light across Pins 4 and 5 of the fuel pump, if it won't light up, and your Blue wire has 12V, you will only need to run a separate wire from the Pin 5 of the Pump connector to the Chassis Ground. Those connectors can be taken apart quite easily, so you won't have to cut any wires to make a repair. From this point it depends solely on you whether you would want to restore the original Ground, or run your own, there is no particular difference, other than aesthetics. The Ground for the Fuel Pump is located under the trim piece for the driver side Center Pillar, you can unscrew it and check continuity of the wire to make sure it is still in one piece.
What I mean by "connecting across" is connecting one leg of a light bulb to one pin of the fuel pump connector, and the other one to the other pin, basically using a light bulb in place of your fuel pump. An easier alternative would be to use a multimeter and measure continuity between Pin 5 and Ground, but that may trick you a bit, since the continuity may still be there, but the wire could be damaged to the point of it not being able to handle the current.
when I connected across 4 and 5 and attempted to crank it the light did light up
Well, I am beginning to get a bit confused now, since Pins 4 and 5 are what actually supply voltage to your pump. How do you wire it when you add power directly to the pump from the battery, can you share a picture? Also make sure that all the contacts in the connector and a plug are solid. From what you are saying, your wiring is okay, and the pump should engage.
i disconnected the plug from pump under seat then used a old spliced pigtail that is exactly the same as the one on it but i only used the blue wire for power and the white and black wire for ground
Black and Blue wires are what actually supply voltage to your pump, Blue wire corresponds to Pin 4, Black is for Pin 5. In the test with a test light, you verified that your harness does get power, which means that it is doing the same as you connecting the battery directly to the pump. Try comparing both if the harnesses, you need to make sure that there is a solid contact. You can also try to take your connector apart, to do so, follow this guide (try it on your spare connector first), the only remark would be that you will also need to open a cover on top of the connector; after taking the wires out, connect them directly to the pump and see if it will spin.
Check the voltage on the battery while cranking the engine, see if it will drop significantly. You can also measure voltage from the Negative battery terminal and any bare metal on the frame while cranking, see if there is any voltage drop, if so, it will indicate that you need to clean and/or replace the Negative terminal. That said, if you already have the battery out, you may as well just take the whole Negative cable out and give it, as well as bolts that hold it a good clean with a wire brush, since it is pretty easy to access - one of the leads goes directly under the battery, the other one is located on the transmission, close to the air intake.
As for the relation to the fuel pump, it depends. The engine will stop spinning before the pump won't have enough voltage to create pressure. What you can try doing is short the Circuit Opening Relay to see if the pump will engage when there is no other load on the system.
Battery on car shows 11.6 volts approximately turn key to start it click click click put known good battery out my other running vehicle turns over fine just doesn't start put the battery from mine into truck click click click .I Need a new battery far as I see no if ands or buts.
on to prior issue with a good hot battery on it vehicle will start then die immediately start then immediately die
fuel filter is new
with fuel line off at fuel filter and attempting to crank pump will prime and a small amount of fuel will come out when attempting start
problem in ignition? problem with my key?
with 12volts applied to pump gas will pour out
what is causing that pump not kick on right at the moment the car goes to start ? this is how it should happen? pump primes vehicles starts pump kicks on?
as stated in earlier post if you spray cleaner into the throttle body it will start and run run run until you quit spraying
here is a new development tho i was told that if the pump was wired straight with 12 volts to run that the car would start and run this is not so even with fuel pump wired manually on vehicle wont start i was told many things this is not true attempting to crank it and its the same starts dies starts dies ,this however is true if you spray cleaner into the throttle body it will start and run run run until you quit spraying also also with filter off when attempting to start pump will prime but no gas comes out when attempting to crank it
05-12-21, 11:05 AM
