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1995 ES300 Cluster Bulb Replacements?

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Old 05-14-21, 03:03 PM
  #16  
jerlands
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
one thing i did forget to mention... after replacing the junk speed sensor i replaced the original failed sensor with... i drove the car over a thousand miles before the P0500 (probably 1500) so it seems the fault is something that has developed... the thing also is... coincidentally.. i installed a new stereo receiver, compatible with the system supposedly (crutchfield) along with new rear speakers... and blared that thing all the way during a 500 mile trip...
EDIT:... correction... it was over a 600 mi (1200 round) trip. i just checked the map...

Last edited by jerlands; 05-14-21 at 03:14 PM.
Old 05-14-21, 06:50 PM
  #17  
jerlands
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
ok... i installed the new alternator and noticed a few positive things... lke... P0500 did not go off at the same distance it had been previously... this time... i made it all the way back home... an additional 6 miles... parked... then headed back up the hill... before it went off... i'm now assuming some electronic component in the cluster is failing... probably the circuitry that does the same thing as the oscillator (resinator) in the '97 and onward models...


Old 05-16-21, 03:01 PM
  #18  
Arsenii
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Well, right now it's nothing but guessing, which won't get you all that far. You will either need to find a specialist with necessary equipment, or the same car that you can take parts off of. Check that you have signal going to the ECU, although quite unlikely, but you may still check if there are any issues with the connection from the Cluster to the ECU. If the connection is good and the speedometer is operating, then it is more than likely that you need a new cluster.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
Old 05-16-21, 11:21 PM
  #19  
jerlands
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
Well, right now it's nothing but guessing, which won't get you all that far. You will either need to find a specialist with necessary equipment, or the same car that you can take parts off of. Check that you have signal going to the ECU, although quite unlikely, but you may still check if there are any issues with the connection from the Cluster to the ECU. If the connection is good and the speedometer is operating, then it is more than likely that you need a new cluster.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
yesterday i think it was i replace the combination meters circuit place to see if there was any change... other than the odometer reading... i didn't notice much... but... that particular plate had over 260,000 miles on it so no telling if it was working 100%. i did recall my incident with the purchase of the chinese knock off speed sensor that didn't work... that was for the VSS1 (three prong gear driven) but then i remember thinking i had purchased OEM for the VSS2 (two prong sensor, direct clutch) so i checked and low and behold.. i'm pretty sure it's another piece of junk... so... i've ordered a "Dorman" as a replacement that i'm hoping will arrive soon... the Direct Clutch speed sensor is also called the O/D speed sensor so it makes sense to me if that sensor isn't working properly i should get the P0500? i don't intend to take this project to anyone else other than for advice.. it's pretty much my project...

Old 05-17-21, 01:05 AM
  #20  
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You are not the first person to experience such an issue, those cars are known for it. With such mileage, especially if it was taken off of junkyard, chances are it may have gotten the same flaw. Someone may have gotten the P0500 code, they tried fighting with it for a while, and when nothing helped, the car ended up at the junkyard, right in time for someone else with that same code to take that cluster out; all that is to tell that junkyard parts are not always to be relied upon. Throwing parts on problems is also not the best alternative, since it may still be wiring or ECU related, the only way to know for sure is to check the signal to ECU.

As for Direct Clutch speed sensor, it is a different circuit responsible for shift timing rather than car speed, so I doubt it has any relation to your code; that said, if you are not sure of its origins, then yes you should replace it. Dorman is not the best choice, especially when it comes to sensors, even used OEM off of eBay would be a better alternative, since they are pretty robust. Do you remember which brand was installed in your car? There were two, Toyota and Aisin, they are a touch different from each other, and I am not sure if they are compatible.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
Old 05-17-21, 01:10 PM
  #21  
jerlands
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
You are not the first person to experience such an issue, those cars are known for it. With such mileage, especially if it was taken off of junkyard, chances are it may have gotten the same flaw. Someone may have gotten the P0500 code, they tried fighting with it for a while, and when nothing helped, the car ended up at the junkyard, right in time for someone else with that same code to take that cluster out; all that is to tell that junkyard parts are not always to be relied upon. Throwing parts on problems is also not the best alternative, since it may still be wiring or ECU related, the only way to know for sure is to check the signal to ECU.

As for Direct Clutch speed sensor, it is a different circuit responsible for shift timing rather than car speed, so I doubt it has any relation to your code; that said, if you are not sure of its origins, then yes you should replace it. Dorman is not the best choice, especially when it comes to sensors, even used OEM off of eBay would be a better alternative, since they are pretty robust. Do you remember which brand was installed in your car? There were two, Toyota and Aisin, they are a touch different from each other, and I am not sure if they are compatible.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
i agree about the cluster swap.. it's a crapshoot... it seems my options to technically diagnose the problem is to use Techstream which i can't seem to get to work on the model... use an oscilloscope to measure the signal at the ECU... or... invest in a hacked OBDII scanner that can read all the sensor outputs... which i've heard can be had at aliexpress.... both would probably be good investments.... as for the direct clutch speed sensor... what exactly does it do?... i'm not certain if the original was Aisin or Toyota... i've heard you should replace it with the same but i didn't know this when i threw the dead one away.. the thing is there is a new part number that seems to be compatible with both (89413-08020).... i'm assuming the new compatible design is used by 3rd party developers but i don't know. i am though concerned now with my purchase of Dorman... i heard Rock Auto was a good place for parts so i basically went off their selections... both Aisin and NTK were out of stock... the price wasn't low.. i paid $55.79 for it and it was one of those deals where you have to put it in your cart to see the price...
Old 05-17-21, 10:02 PM
  #22  
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In this case, Techstream or any other scan tool won't be of much service to you, since it will only tell you what is supplied to the ECU, which is either a very distorted signal, or a complete lack of thereof, which you already know, since you have a P0500 code. Any halfway descent OBD2 scan tool should be capable of reading engine live data, it should be stated in the spec sheet for the specific tool you chose as Live Data Stream. You don't need an oscilloscope to check the signal on the ECU, you can just lift one of the front wheels and turn it by hand. That said, if you really want to have some fun and ready to part with about $25, you may invest in something like a tool linked below. While it is not a real oscilloscope, it should be enough for your needs.

DSO138 Handheld Oscilloscope DSO138 Handheld Oscilloscope

As for the Direct Clutch speed sensor, the Part Number you provided (89413-08020) is actually listed as a replacement for both Toyota and Aisin sensors, so it should work regardless of the sensor that was originally in your car. RockAuto is a really good place to get parts, they usually have a vast selection for pretty reasonable prices, the heart icon you can see next to some parts is not their choice, it is the best selling part in the specific category, which is sometimes useful, but not to be relied upon. At least in my opinion, if possible, you should probably ship that sensor back and get something else, even if it is a used OEM, Dorman sensors are not really worth $56.. That sensor detects the speed of the direct clutch, ECU then compares the speed of the clutch and the car to determine a correct shift timing, and make a smooth gear change.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
Old 05-19-21, 07:26 PM
  #23  
jerlands
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
In this case, Techstream or any other scan tool won't be of much service to you, since it will only tell you what is supplied to the ECU, which is either a very distorted signal, or a complete lack of thereof, which you already know, since you have a P0500 code. Any halfway descent OBD2 scan tool should be capable of reading engine live data, it should be stated in the spec sheet for the specific tool you chose as Live Data Stream. You don't need an oscilloscope to check the signal on the ECU, you can just lift one of the front wheels and turn it by hand. That said, if you really want to have some fun and ready to part with about $25, you may invest in something like a tool linked below. While it is not a real oscilloscope, it should be enough for your needs.

DSO138 Handheld Oscilloscope

As for the Direct Clutch speed sensor, the Part Number you provided (89413-08020) is actually listed as a replacement for both Toyota and Aisin sensors, so it should work regardless of the sensor that was originally in your car. RockAuto is a really good place to get parts, they usually have a vast selection for pretty reasonable prices, the heart icon you can see next to some parts is not their choice, it is the best selling part in the specific category, which is sometimes useful, but not to be relied upon. At least in my opinion, if possible, you should probably ship that sensor back and get something else, even if it is a used OEM, Dorman sensors are not really worth $56.. That sensor detects the speed of the direct clutch, ECU then compares the speed of the clutch and the car to determine a correct shift timing, and make a smooth gear change.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
I swapped the direct clutch speed sensor with the Dorman... no real noticeable change... what seems odd about the P0500 is that i'm able to drive at least 70 miles (the furthest I've gone since getting it) with it not going off, but once i stop, be it 6 miles or 70, then start off again, P0500 comes back at about the same distance traveled. i'd be guessing at what the ECU is doing but this seems odd to me... i pulled another cluster today and am going to see how that one works out...
The oscilloscope i'm looking at is the LIUMY Oscilloscope Multimeter, LM2020
Old 05-20-21, 03:35 AM
  #24  
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For the ECU to trigger a fault code, ECU has what's called Trip Detection Logic, for the P0500 it is a 2 Trip Detection Logic, to put it simply, the condition that sets the specific code has to occur at least twice for the code to trigger a CEL on the dashboard. If the condition didn't occur enough times, the ECU will only set a Pending code, which doesn't light the CEL. All this is pure guessing though, and with no information on what is being sent to the ECU, you won't get all that far.

As for the tool you picked, I am not a expert here; as I wrote before, even that $25 gig will do the job.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Last edited by Arsenii; 05-20-21 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 05-20-21, 07:05 PM
  #25  
jerlands
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
For the ECU to trigger a fault code, ECU has what's called Trip Detection Logic, for the P0500 it is a 2 Trip Detection Logic, to put it simply, the condition that sets the specific code has to occur at least twice for the code to trigger a CEL on the dashboard. If the condition didn't occur enough times, the ECU will only set a Pending code, which doesn't light the CEL. All this is pure guessing though, and with no information on what is being sent to the ECU, you won't get all that far.

As for the tool you picked, I am not a expert here; as I wrote before, even that $25 gig will do the job.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
i replaced the cluster again today but nothing noticeable.. however... after my last cluster swap i started seeing something unusual... the ECT PWR light would come on without my pressing the button... and if i tried to press the button... the already lit lamp would dim a bit... this happened also after replacing the cluster today... so i decided to stop.. shut down... start back up.. engage the ECT PWR button and drove off... i stopped several time to see if P0500 would return but nothing... so i tested it for about 12 miles more with ECT PWR button engaged and it seemed to shift smoothly... but as i was pulling into the house... smoke started billowing out from the upper dash vent, inside of the corner speaker by about 6 inches... i stopped.. pulled the cluster but don't see anything that may have gotten hot... yet...

Old 05-20-21, 09:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Arsenii
For the ECU to trigger a fault code, ECU has what's called Trip Detection Logic, for the P0500 it is a 2 Trip Detection Logic, to put it simply, the condition that sets the specific code has to occur at least twice for the code to trigger a CEL on the dashboard. If the condition didn't occur enough times, the ECU will only set a Pending code, which doesn't light the CEL. All this is pure guessing though, and with no information on what is being sent to the ECU, you won't get all that far.

As for the tool you picked, I am not a expert here; as I wrote before, even that $25 gig will do the job.

Hope this helps and best of luck!
it appears i fried some components on the meter board... i'm not really certain what they are or what they do but i'd like to find out...



Old 06-06-22, 01:16 PM
  #27  
leirazepol
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Hello,

Now I'm scared to use aftermarket bulbs. Is there any reference table to understand the correct replacement Bulb to replace instrument cluster bulbs? I mean, OEM are too expensive for a bulb and you may need 25 of them.

Can anyone share a cross reference table or past experiences?

I was aiming for the LED bulbs, but the problem is that they don't dim as normal bulbs. Any thoughts on this last?
Old 06-06-22, 01:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by leirazepol
Hello,

Now I'm scared to use aftermarket bulbs. Is there any reference table to understand the correct replacement Bulb to replace instrument cluster bulbs? I mean, OEM are too expensive for a bulb and you may need 25 of them.

Can anyone share a cross reference table or past experiences?

I was aiming for the LED bulbs, but the problem is that they don't dim as normal bulbs. Any thoughts on this last?
if you google "Lexus Parts Catalogs LEXUS ES300 VCV10L-BTPGKA VCV10,MCV10 METER" you can see the cluster with light layout and bulb type. https://partsouq.com/
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