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I know this thread is all over the place but i can't seem to sort it out. I have replaced the backlight bulbs but since I'm going back in to replace the speedometer i thought i might as well replace the gear position bulbs (7 of 'em) as well as the trouble lights (14 of 'em.) My problem is getting a replacement without using the OEM bulb, which is much more expensive. Does anyone have the correct replacement for these two part numbers belonging to D and E series?... 1 - 83119-32010... 2 - 90981-11018
if anyone has this information it may be useful in the future... I gave up and ordered the OEM bulbs from partsouq.com . It seems to me there are no aftermarkets that are the exact replacement...
Try as I might, I wasn't able to find any difference between those two bulbs, yet I do have a 2000 ES300, so there may be some variables. Can you post the pictures of those two bulbs side-by-side one you will start taking the bulbs out? In any case, for the 83119-32010, Koito 1584 would be the way to go, but only if you can find them, even Amayama doesn't ship those here. Sylvania 2721 should work, but those are still as pricey.. I also found a seller of German car parts, here is a link to the Osram bulb off of some Mercedes that should work for your car, though it is on your own risk. Osram is basically the same company as Sylvania.
Try as I might, I wasn't able to find any difference between those two bulbs, yet I do have a 2000 ES300, so there may be some variables. Can you post the pictures of those two bulbs side-by-side one you will start taking the bulbs out? In any case, for the 83119-32010, Koito 1584 would be the way to go, but only if you can find them, even Amayama doesn't ship those here. Sylvania 2721 should work, but those are still as pricey.. I also found a seller of German car parts, here is a link to the Osram bulb off of some Mercedes that should work for your car, though it is on your own risk. Osram is basically the same company as Sylvania.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
90981-11018 (14 of 'em) is 12V1.2W it's base is 4.7mm in width... 2mm thick... overall length is 17.5mm... the tube is 4.9mm 83119-32010 (7 of 'em) is 14V 3.0W it's base is 5mm in width...2.9mm thick...overall length is 18.5mm... the tube is 6.4mm
i've been unable to find anything where the base matches the bulb rating... i'm now particular about the ratings because of how particular the engine control system is to voltage variations... I'm going so far as to replace the alternator with the 200 amp avalon...
i had an issue after just purchasing it in november of last year.. the speedometer went out... initially i assumed it was the speed sensor... so i purchased one from ebay... i went through this whole rigmarole after that in trying to trace down the fault.. i finally tested the sensor i put in and guess what?.. it was a chinese knock off that didn't work... anyway.. in my journey i found a loose ground on the back of the plenum i assume was left that way after the vehicle had it's 60,000 spark plug change... 23k miles before i purchased it... once i got a good speedometer the odometer and speedometer started working... after occasionally having to hit the dash every now and again to free the needle. I'm now assuming the loose ground point ED caused the speed sensor to fail and may also have impacted the speedometer. and since i've just started receiving a P0500 i'm assuming the signal isn't getting corrected at the speedometer and/or the signal is weak to the ECU for some reason...
Here is an image of one or the sockets I pulled from the transmission indicator bulbs 83119-32010. I'm thinking it became hot because of low voltage. it's odd though because i pulled a cluster from a junkyard and used a couple bulbs in it to replace those that looked spent in mine (since i wasn't able to find any) and notice the same type of deterioration but not as severe... i'm wondering if common with the sockets or maybe the alternator issue is more of a problem?...
200A Avalon alternator? Can you provide its Part Number, since I don't of any OEM 200A alternator that would bolt up to 1MZ-FE without modifications. Maximum I could find is 130A off of RX300 Towing Package.
Where did you find the specifications for those light bulbs? I have a few spare lights that I collected over time, they all vary in size, but all fit in the cluster socket, so my guess would be that those can be used interchangeably..
As for the issues with the socket, I don't think that could be caused by low voltage, since lower the voltage, less temperature the light produces (Ohm's Law). It actually looks more like a design mishap than anything else.. As for the fix, you can try using sockets off of next generation ES300, when I took mines out, they still looked spotless, though I am not sure if they will fit without modifications.
yes..., i have though switched out the speedometer with one i had pulled from the graveyard. i installed the entire cluster once before, when i had a failed speed sensor and was getting both P0720 and P0500 (since the speed sensor didn't work.) now.. i'm only getting P0500.
Originally Posted by Arsenii
200A Avalon alternator? Can you provide its Part Number, since I don't of any OEM 200A alternator that would bolt up to 1MZ-FE without modifications. Maximum I could find is 130A off of RX300 Towing Package.
i was in error in the 200a... but it seems it does fit.. i just didn't buy it... i purchased a 100a... similar to what is on the highlander but i purchased aftermarket from "super_autoparts" on ebay... the 200a is advertised as compatible with the 1995 ES300... "Manufacturer Part Number: 13706 13558 27060-20070,27060-20010,27060-0A020 Part Brand: aftermarket Interchange Part Number: 101211-5620, 101211-9060, 101211-9100,101211-9780" . i purchased 13706
Originally Posted by Arsenii
Where did you find the specifications for those light bulbs? I have a few spare lights that I collected over time, they all vary in size, but all fit in the cluster socket, so my guess would be that those can be used interchangeably..
the ratings i got from a site called https://partsouq.com/ the dimensions i took myself.
Originally Posted by Arsenii
As for the issues with the socket, I don't think that could be caused by low voltage, since lower the voltage, less temperature the light produces (Ohm's Law). It actually looks more like a design mishap than anything else.. As for the fix, you can try using sockets off of next generation ES300, when I took mines out, they still looked spotless, though I am not sure if they will fit without modifications.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
i don't know what i was thinking but good point... probably motors... likely though i was thinking about voltage spikes that may have been caused by the loose ground point at "ED" that appears to be also for the combination meter.
the alternator should arrive tomorrow so i'll see if that has any effect but i'm anticipating having to replace the combination meter now... i've heard in later models where the odometer is attached to the speedometer a part called a resonator (oscillator) tends to go out but i don't see it on the '95 ES300 nor could i dig up any full drawn schematics rather than just one line.. i don't even know where the eprom is on this board?...
Frankly, maybe it's just me, but brands like "super_autoparts" are enough to rise my blood pressure.. No matter how many times I stumbled across eBay parts like that, they turned out to be flawed in one way or another. Denso alternators cost about the same, and RX300 100A (210-0439) or 130A (210-0509) alternator fits bolt-on, so I would suggest you to go with one of those. As for anything above 100A for that car, the wiring is just not up to the task, so you will have to replace the B+ wire from the battery to the alternator to utilize their full potential and not risk frying anything along the way, that said, a higher rate alternator can actually reduce the load on the engine.
The signal from VSS goes to the Instrument Cluster, then it gets filtered out and sent to the ECU. One thing I am not sure about is why and how you replaced only a speedometer itself, and not the cluster as a whole, considering that those can be quite tricky to take apart; in any case, trying to swap individual components in the cluster is probably not the best way to go about things.. As for further diagnostics, you will need to check the signal from the Cluster to the Pin 12 of the ECU. The diagram below was taken from a 1994 Toyota Camry, so it may or may not match your car. You can also refer to this thread for more information.
There is not a lot of things that can cause such deterioration on the sockets other than a normal operation combined with wrong type of plastic, hence why I made a suggestion to try sockets from the next generation ES300, which are made from a different material.
Frankly, maybe it's just me, but brands like "super_autoparts" are enough to rise my blood pressure.. No matter how many times I stumbled across eBay parts like that, they turned out to be flawed in one way or another. Denso alternators cost about the same, and RX300 100A (210-0439) or 130A (210-0509) alternator fits bolt-on, so I would suggest you to go with one of those. As for anything above 100A for that car, the wiring is just not up to the task, so you will have to replace the B+ wire from the battery to the alternator to utilize their full potential and not risk frying anything along the way, that said, a higher rate alternator can actually reduce the load on the engine.
yes.. the alternator itself is pretty critical... "super_autoparts" is a chinese knock off outfit that seems to specialize in motors but does have good ratings... the reason i didn't pick up a remanufactured OEM or a direct OEM replacement was price...
Originally Posted by Arsenii
The signal from VSS goes to the Instrument Cluster, then it gets filtered out and sent to the ECU. One thing I am not sure about is why and how you replaced only a speedometer itself, and not the cluster as a whole, considering that those can be quite tricky to take apart; in any case, trying to swap individual components in the cluster is probably not the best way to go about things.. As for further diagnostics, you will need to check the signal from the Cluster to the Pin 12 of the ECU. The diagram below was taken from a 1994 Toyota Camry, so it may or may not match your car. You can also refer to this thread for more information.
There is not a lot of things that can cause such deterioration on the sockets other than a normal operation combined with wrong type of plastic, hence why I made a suggestion to try sockets from the next generation ES300, which are made from a different material.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
to check the signal at the ECU for waveform I'd need an oscilloscope... not expensive but just something i haven't done... the reason i didn't just replace the entire combination meter rather than just the speedometer is because on the '97 models there is a component within the speedometer circuit board called an oscillator (resinator) and when it goes out exhibits the same behavior as what i am experiencing. if i knew where the resonator was on this board or how the signal is rectified then i'd be steps ahead...
as for the pin locations on the '94... no.. they are not the same... only the '95 and '96 are the same but i'm not sure if the '95/'96 camry are the same...
initially when i started looking into the problem i was confused by the voltage signal source which i thought originated at the ECU...
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Here is the 95-96 E10 connector
i believe the wire color codes are different also...
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
I understand now i think the basics... what i can't see is the signal that is being generated to the ECU... the ECU is getting the signal but it is impaired... for some reason... so even not looking at the wave form... i know something is wrong with it... either voltage spikes as a result of a bad voltage regulator or possibly the loose ground connection I found at point "ED" caused variances that damaged circuitry in the meter... so... knowing which parts might be subject to that type of damage would help...
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
it seems the cluster remained the same from 94 through 96 and connectors are the same but i think the wire color codes are different also...
I doubt you will really need an oscilloscope for it, since you just need to make sure that the signal is actually getting to the ECU, and not what kind of signal is there, which is something you can always do later. As for the pinout, the pin for the speed input actually stayed in the same location all the way to the next generation ES300; I don't have any diagrams specifically for 1995 or 1996 ES300, so it would be tough to tell. In any case, all that's left are the cluster, ECU and wiring to check. If your speedometer works and resetting the CEL doesn't help, it may suggest that you need a new cluster, or that you need to check the connection from the cluster to the ECU.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
in '95... lexus implemented OBDII... one year ahead of its time....
Frankly, maybe it's just me, but brands like "super_autoparts" are enough to rise my blood pressure.. No matter how many times I stumbled across eBay parts like that, they turned out to be flawed in one way or another. Denso alternators cost about the same, and RX300 100A (210-0439) or 130A (210-0509) alternator fits bolt-on, so I would suggest you to go with one of those. As for anything above 100A for that car, the wiring is just not up to the task, so you will have to replace the B+ wire from the battery to the alternator to utilize their full potential and not risk frying anything along the way, that said, a higher rate alternator can actually reduce the load on the engine.
The signal from VSS goes to the Instrument Cluster, then it gets filtered out and sent to the ECU. One thing I am not sure about is why and how you replaced only a speedometer itself, and not the cluster as a whole, considering that those can be quite tricky to take apart; in any case, trying to swap individual components in the cluster is probably not the best way to go about things.. As for further diagnostics, you will need to check the signal from the Cluster to the Pin 12 of the ECU. The diagram below was taken from a 1994 Toyota Camry, so it may or may not match your car. You can also refer to this thread for more information.
There is not a lot of things that can cause such deterioration on the sockets other than a normal operation combined with wrong type of plastic, hence why I made a suggestion to try sockets from the next generation ES300, which are made from a different material.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
if worse comes to worse... i may try and locate someone to program the eprom for me... and then they can tell me where it is...
05-11-21, 11:22 AM
1995 ES300 Cluster Bulb Replacements?
