I'm attempting to install a new sub in my es 300 while keeping most things stock, I've scavenged these forums looking for something but nobody has done it quite like this. Already moved past fitting a 10 inch into a 8in inclosure now I need to get some proper power to this thing. The stock amp does 60w max which is very inefficient for my powerful sub, would I be able to use the two existing rear speaker cables for the stock sub as rsa cables for a aftermarket amp I would put in the trunk dedicated for the sub? Ofc running proper 12v and remote cables, the rest is plug and play right?

I assume the unanimous answer would be yes but just in case would I be able to tap into the subwoofers stock wiring near the glovebox to get a rsa cable, and where would that be? Before or after the stock amp.

I don't want to get confusing but read along if you will, I read through a forum of someone frying they're stock amp by using an overpowered sub in they're 98 es and I saw someone comment how that's not possible but never pursue after, I only bring this up because I'm in that situation and it makes complete sense, an overpowered sub will only ever receive an improper amount of power and be weak or blow out to, to much power, it's not actually outputting any power to fry anything, away from my point but a concern that I have. I don't feel like frying my stock amp while waiting for my new one. I'm very unhappy with the way it sounds with stock but I can only refer to the massive change between 60w@2ohm-150w@4ohms, hopefully getting the right power in the stock location will bring some real power considering it's 3 times the power. Most people say the 8inch stock sub isn't that good but it's hard to find anything better even in modern cars unless you look specifically for it obv, it's how we got Lexus. The stock 8 inch kicks some base so I expect this upgrade to do a big improvement

(Second question, I'll be getting a 150w amp because the sub is 150w rms recommended, 300w max and I don't want to overpower the sub by getting a 250w-300w amp and running over recommended specs, hense this here being a second out of the way question, was that the right choice?)

 

What year is your car? Yes you can feed a subwoofer amp speaker level signal but this is not ideal you'll get best quality by going with the pre-amp signal (RCA not rsa). I've experimented with the Pioneer system in my ES I've found the pre-amp signal is not really suitable for a standard amplifier the voltage is too high.

Either way need to know the year of your ES before I can give any specific advice. What amp are you looking to buy? Don't get too hung up on specs the quality of the components is far more important.

 

i have a 1999 es and I'm thinking of buying a 150w kicker amp and "bridging" the channels for max 150w output on the single mono sub.

 

Pioneer system? You can try tapping into the line in signal going to the factory amp, failing that pipe the subwoofer speaker output to your Kicker amp. But doing this means you are getting the crossover frequency from the factory amplifier so whatever the upper end frequency cut it set at, that's what you get. In other words the bypass control on the Kicker amp won't be useful.

BTW Kicker makes their own stuff it's not rebranded which is a plus in my book. I made a thread that gives the pin-outs for the Pioneer.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...and-specs.html

If you have the Nakamichi don't have any experience with that system.

 

I don't know the differences between the two systems, or what I have exactly, I took out the old unit and replaced it with a new touch screen by ATOTO which isn't reputable anywhere in my head but it works flawlessly, where it gets confusing for me is where I would tap in the wires from, considering I only remember there being 4 RCA cables coming into the old unit and then an antenna, which cable would I tap and bring to the trunk for the amp?

Edit: Autocorrect, needed badly

 

Got a pic of your old stereo?

 

I do not but I'm thinking about buying the right 12v, fuse, ground, rem, and RCA cables, and then splicing the RCA cables to the speaker wire because I saw it in a Amazon review rather than buying an adapter for reasons mentioned above, it was a little vague but seems simple. Other than that it's no writing with Lexus premium sound system on the top like everyone's, no special coach here

 

Since you’re using an aftermarket head unit and planning a powered sub, you want to bypass/abandon the factory amp. Read this thread.

About using the factory speaker wires for RCA signals… It’s easy to run a quality RCA cable from the console to the trunk.

 

I've ordered everything I would need for my one of system, this would keep me in phase 1 with the rookie problems but it doesn't bother me too much. I would rather want to find out why that ground loops an issue as that's what I've always wondered but the solution to everyone seems to be bypass which I won't get you wrong, it is the right answer, but since I've already gone a different route I'll see how that goes. My second question would be, How would I get a second amp turn on or remote wire to the back to power my second amp, ofc bypassing the amp fixes this problem by freeing up the cable I'm supposed to use, which is also why this is totally one off and shunned already but seems totally possible with no flaws other than what's in the thread posted in phase 1.

I ordered a 300w kicker 4 channel amp:
so I can bridge for my aftermarket sub 2 channel 4ohm 150w rms and run a second one possibly if I choose so

kicker speaker line to rca
Or optionally a
Line out high to nine converter

whichever one works best, my goal is to take the existing power running to the trunk and just running it like normal basically, adding a amp, taking the time out without taking the time out it's seeming like. Where could it possibly nip me in the butt...

Also forgot to mention I'm running an ATOTO head unit just because they're the smartest buy at the time, so glad to know I got lucky there as stated above ive never heard of them but it's been running super well since.

 

I had to read the thread again a couple times and do some own research but how would I actually bypass? My ATOTO head unit has an internal amp running everything it needs for the bypass, the thread gives me a hard time in actually understanding how that happens. Ive already got the head unit wiring harness 8112 going from my HU to the factory plug. So what would I have to do being in phase 1 to go into phase 2, it's a little weird at explaining since it looks like it's plugged into the factory amp input in your thread images, so if I could find clarity on that in terms of where it actually plugs in and where I'm finding these plug ins. QQ "another"
you need another
shall I add a cool diy fact, I learned early on about the "illumination" problem with it missing and decided to fix it myself by unplugging the brown radio pin and replacing it with where the illumination goes, I never noticed my **** ever turning down my HU display brightness and was pretty disappointed until I learned today that's totally not what it's for and I'm glad to have functioning headlights without realizing!
My HU has a subwoofer output so what could I do with that? Your thread seems to have a HU without this option so it wasn't mentioned but couldn't I technically hook up my system as a phase 2, and run out that output for my sub into a new amp. Next question is how do I get the internal amp signal to the factory speakers as said in thread but not really shown all too much as I can see. How would I connect it from my HU to the 1761 harness

 

Hey Tyler, I would need another few cups of coffee this morning before I could parse your posts and construct a useful reply for you.

My suggestion is that you go to the other thread and post concise questions about anything you want clarified.

 

Seems to me this has come down to an install that is not Lexus specific. If so there are tons of vids on YT showing you the basics of head unit, amp and speaker wiring.

 

I wish I could write an essay this easy,
and I also don't know how to delete a post so it's there forever, a thought process is a process.

What did you do to run rca cables from the internal amp on the HU to your speakers? Was it the 1761 harness? And if so where are you getting the cable in the first place to connect it?

 

I didn't do that! You started this thread talking about some big subwoofer you want to use. We know that a big subwoofer will need a capable amplifier, which in turn should get input from your HU via RCA cable. You also talked about feeding this subwoofer via the factory speaker wiring. That's a bad idea (hence our feedback). As @LeX2K indicated, this is aftermarket car audio 101 stuff that's not specific to our Lexus cars.

You're fired up about adding new stuff. Cool. You're bouncing from place to place and questioning things in ways that are natural for a thought process but confusing as hell for a communication strategy when posing a question or starting a conversation. You'll have us wondering if you're heavily ADHD or just stoned (not that there's anything wrong with that or that :-).

I had suggested that you read a thread I started to help people like you to understand how to go about upgrading their audio in their 3ESs. You say you've read this post/thread more than once, yet you are asking out-of-context questions that, if I do say so myself, are pretty clearly explained in said thread :-). If you understood that thread and want to "take another approach", I wish you good luck. In fact, @Cobalt just took another approach with his Nakamichi amp, and he apparently got lucky.

 

im a little confused on how you get sound to your system as it changes from phase 2 to phase 3. It's confusing since I haven't actually done anything with the systems or looked at the diagrams of any harness hence not knowing anything. Just trying to figure out an equation before I get to it but I definitely appreciate the check, stuff should be Delivered by mail all this weekend and hooked up for the system, I'll still try and get past that small problem as it arises. It will be bypassing the factory amp and doing something new by using the sub output hopefully so I'll be posting that update aswell. Coming from not knowing what RCAs are while installing my HU 4 months ago not bad. And I will hopefully be returning sound to my rear door speakers in the process!