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After 325k miles, it needed new tie rods (well, one).
Today I put new inner and outer tie rods in the car. The originals lasted a whopping 325k. Well, all except one really. The right inner was very bad and I should have done it a while ago, but I kept kicking the can down the road. I shouldn't have because it's so much easier on these cars than most; I was surprised.
The rack has an extension that puts the inner joint way out near the subframe and easily accessible. You can re-use the boots; I just took some long-reach pliers and twisted the inner band loose, then the same to tighten it. The outer is a Mubea clamp you can pinch off and back on. Easy-peasy.
If you aren't familiar with these inner tie rod removal tools, they are quite simple and easy. You pick an insert that fits the flats on your inner tie rod, and stick it on them. Then you slide the tool (really a big socket) down to grasp the insert, and then loosen it just like a conventional socket - a few wacks with a hammer and it will spin off. Torque on them is like 60 ft/lbs, nothing heinous.
I post this as if you are scared of this job, just do it. Count the turns to get the outer tie rod off, and screw the new one back on the same number to get you close enough to not damage your tires immediately. Go get an alignment and enjoy the new smooth and more precise steering!
FYI, if you are in need now, RockAuto had a great deal on quality Delphi parts so I used them.
The inner tie rod/rack joint is very accessible, unlike many cars.
The end of the tool has a 1/2" socket adapter on it. A little love-tap with your favorite BFH and you are done. This BFH is special to me; my dad smuggled it out of the L&N Railroad depot in Louisville, KY in 1967. He used it rebuilding the Civil War steam train "The General," among other things.
If not familiar, this is how the removal tool works. It comes with a selection of different socket ends. Choose the right one, slide it over the flats on your tie rod, then slide the socket down and attach - then remove! This one is free to borrow from Autozone; most auto parts stores have similar ones. I don't do this enough to justify having my own kit. So I borrowed this from a local Autozone.
Yikes! Just looked through all my records and found this is not something I've done on my 2003 ES with 358,xxx miles on it. Another to-do project.
Thanks for a timely reminder. Did this same thing on a '94 Plymouth Grand Voyager and it was as easy as you make this one sound.
That's amazing. I'm still using original tie rods as well with 300k, so this is good to know when mine go bad.
Yep, easy. I should have done it when I did the lower ball joints or wheel bearings in the past. I got hung up on a stuck outer tie rod end this morning and did not make the alignment appointment; now I have to wait until next tuesday before I can really drive it. I did take it down the neighborhood road a bit and back and oh it's so smoooooothhhhhh! Really rides like new now - it was nice before but that r. inner was really loose and the steering was affected.
I definitely recommend doing this the next time you need an alignment for another reason (struts, etc), or are doing major work like control arms or a wheel bearing. The inner tie rod ends were like $15 each and the outer $17 each for OE-quality Delphi parts, which was a good deal (RockAuto).
05-21-21, 07:07 PM
After 325k miles, it needed new tie rods (well, one).
