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2004 es330 subwoofer unplug / fuse pull

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Old 10-27-21, 04:04 PM
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txlexes330
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Default 2004 es330 subwoofer unplug / fuse pull

Hey all, I'm short on time before a long drive on Friday and I'm pretty sure my sub just blew out.

Searching here says I'll need to pull the seat to get to it, and I don't really have the time to do that before I need to leave.

Long shot: Is there a fuse I can pull that won't affect the rest of the sound system?

Otherwise is there a plug I can pull or should I desolder the sub connections I see in the trunk?
Old 10-27-21, 04:19 PM
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Arsenii
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Hello,

Providence or not, this exact question was just asked a few hours ago, here is a link..

Hope this helps and best of luck!
Old 10-29-21, 12:55 PM
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txlexes330
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Thanks @Arsenii for the feedback.

I ended up having to cut and wrap the wires to the speaker in the trunk for the short term.

Pulling up the subwoofer grille turned out to be impossible. The front two posts simply would not pry up and seem to be secured from the bottom side. The rear part actually came up easier, but requires the front to pop off in order to lift out. I hope I didn't break anything here, but oh well.

De-soldering the wires from below also proved to be too difficult in the time I had. I was unable to get my butane iron hot enough to desolder it. The iron is old, so I don't know the truth of the matter here, but I ended up just snipping them to get it taken care of.

This all works just fine for now. My logic was: a little damage to resolve it now doesn't matter considering I have to pull the whole rear seat out to get to this nonsense anyways.
Old 10-29-21, 04:52 PM
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JapanBuick
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Originally Posted by txlexes330
Thanks @Arsenii for the feedback.

I ended up having to cut and wrap the wires to the speaker in the trunk for the short term.

Pulling up the subwoofer grille turned out to be impossible. The front two posts simply would not pry up and seem to be secured from the bottom side. The rear part actually came up easier, but requires the front to pop off in order to lift out. I hope I didn't break anything here, but oh well.

De-soldering the wires from below also proved to be too difficult in the time I had. I was unable to get my butane iron hot enough to desolder it. The iron is old, so I don't know the truth of the matter here, but I ended up just snipping them to get it taken care of.

This all works just fine for now. My logic was: a little damage to resolve it now doesn't matter considering I have to pull the whole rear seat out to get to this nonsense anyways.

.... I may do the same thing. I got a nice pair of diags I can use. I would like to actually *test* the stereo by cranking it up a bit, but do not want to damage the voice coil on the sub.

I am pretty sure all my speakers are OK but not sure until I really get my ear to them.

Re-soldering those after it is out of the car would not be difficult.

Thanks for sharing your experience.
Old 11-01-21, 06:43 AM
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I ended up attempting to pull the cover up, but txlexes330 was correct in that it will not pop up. I feel that the cover is pinned through from underneath, something is holding it on. I did not want to break it.

I clipped the wires from inside the trunk. They will be very easy to solder again when I remove the subwoofer.

I can at least turn my volume up and enjoy the rest of the sound system for now. I have a surround repair kit ordered on on the way.
Old 11-01-21, 01:35 PM
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Noting here: I think I discovered why my sub blew out so suddenly.

My wife's phone has some audio processing software included in it, and I think her bass boosting was on, which was then routed to the system through a tape deck plug.

I already had the audio deck mixed to +2 bass, so I think this, plus a particularly badly mixed bass song trashed it at a medium volume.

She showed me how loud she had it, and it really didn't seem loud enough.

Just something to keep in mind for others going forward - never run audio processing and deck processing at the same time.
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