9SexyLexy9

NEED HELP IDENTIFYING WHAT LINE RUNS FROM NIPPLE ON MUFFLER .
Can anyone tell me what runs to and from this nipple on muffler just after the cut o2 sensor cable.? This is causing a bad reading on my obd but it doesn't register a dtc code .


WHAT LINE RUNS FROM THE NIPPLE COMING FROM MUFFLER JUST AFTER THE CUT O2 SENSOR CABLE FACING THE O2 SENSOR.? EXHAUST PIPE WAS CUT JUST BEFORE THE CONVERTER BY THIEVES AND LINES REMOVED SO I DONT KNOW WHAT LINE GOES TO THAT NIPPLE ON MUFFLER.
Obd does'nt put out a dtc code. Strange.

LeX2K

Keep driving and you'll get a code. Not sure I understand your question if that is the exact pipe and wire they cut then you need one of these
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5132&jsn=345

And of course exhaust repair. I'm guessing by your username you have a 1999 ES could be way off.

Cosanostra

Are you asking about the circled item? Isn't this the exhaust hanger that inserts into a rubber mount and keeps the muffler from sagging?

9SexyLexy9

Thank you for your response.😎. Here's the main issue... My catalytic converter had been cut almost all the way through, my obd didn't register a dtc trouble code instead it showed a fail red x as follows: EVAP-X, O2S-X, HTR-x. I do not know what the HTR-X OR EVAP-X refers to (but I need to know), I do know its a mark of failure and has to do with the vapor leak from the missing line on that nipple on the muffler.
​​​ o2s refers to o2 sensor 2 bank 1, which I replaced.I repaired the exhaust with a thermal wrap from O'Reilly's and it erased the red x on the converter and gave a green light instead. ( converter good).
After a while the red x came back as to the converter and the failing EVAP AND HTR remained the same. "All this has to do with that one line that connects to the nipple on the muffler and by God I don't know what line goes there nor where it connects to.!!!! Im confident this will take care of all the red failure marks. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much 9Lexy9. Ps...ill try to upload a pic from my obd that shows exactly what the problems are.



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Hayk

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you have an exhaust leak that is causing your Readiness Monitors to not pass their tests.

The “nipple” you’re referring to is not a line. It’s a metal exhaust hanger that’s welded to the center exhaust pipe.

I would recommend to have your car tested for exhaust leaks by a professional.

Also see the attached PDF for readiness monitor tests for more info. It will explain how to run the car through those tests.

EVAP-X is an EVAP Monitor failure.
HTR-X is an O2/Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor failure.

9SexyLexy9

YES!!!!! The circled pipe is what im referring to.!!! Thanks!!! Does a line( rubber\ metal ) of some sort connect from there? I was wondering if this wasn't the problem creating the red/bad marks on the scanner.? Tomorrow ill crawl under car and check it out , Perhaps your correct.I replaced the o2 sensor that is shown on the muffler in the pic but no better results. The obd shows a minimum and maximum voltage to sensor 2, bank 1but it marked the same with the original sensor so im at a loss.

9SexyLexy9

Thank you again. Im going to replace o2 sensor on bank#1 sensor 1and bank #2 sensor 1 just to be on the safe side. Obd doesn't register any defects towards sensor 1 bank # 1 nor sensor 1 bank #2,,, it only focuses on sensor 2 bank # 1and it gives me the minimum and maximum voltage required for that specific sensor. Im going to run a scan again and see what the voltage requirements are for sensors and match them against the voltage giving out now from the sensors. I'm trying to avoid the leak test ($) but I'm aware it may be my only course of action . Im still learning so for the time being im going to do my best to take care of what i can on my end then do the leak test if absolutely necessary. Thank you very much for your time and any trouble, I greatly appreciate it.
1999 LEXUS es 300 - 9Lexy9.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Do not replace B1S1 and B2S1 sensors. You’re chasing ghosts, I’ve been in your position before.

Please elaborate the B1S2 error. Are you able to monitor Live Data for that sensor’s voltage with your tool?

If your exhaust has a leak it may cause false negative results to show up for that sensor. I had a similar issue with that sensor until I fixed the rotten exhaust pipes and stopped the leaks.

The voltage for B1S2 will be stuck at 0V while driving and come back to a normal fluctuating value while stationary after a few minutes. That’s a symptom for an exhaust leak.

You will end up spending more money on known good sensors than paying for an exhaust inspection/diagnostic charge.

p.s.: please leave the font on default settings, it’s distracting and harder to read without them.

9SexyLexy9

Thank you again... Yes, i'm able to monitor LIVE DATA, I was just unschooled in how to interpret it on obd, so now that I received your info on it I'll be able to address the problem. The I/M READINESS shows that bank # 1, sensor #2 is below voltage, no other sensor registers any failure so( so i thought )i intended to replace the sensor that's at low voltage. There are no fault/dtc codes... but without plates I can only run car here in my manufactured home park to see if any dtc do pop up.You showed me exactly what the EVAP-X,, HTR-X and O2S-x refers to in the paperwork I received so i'm wondering if the notation on the obd that reads o2S-x( see above ) is not telling me that the heater (htr-x) sensor is failing.??? That I believe is located on bank# 2, #1 sensor.??? The exhaust I showed here is from a 99 LEXUS es 300,, that is NOT my cars exhaust, mine was still intact after thieves cut it but it resembles the exhaust posted here. Apparently I walked in on these crooks before they cut my converter completely off but it only had like 1/2" to go. Grateful for all your help, i'm confident ill get this car going again very soon.
Respectfully,,, 9Lexy9
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Arsenii

Hello,

Was the exhaust ever fixed after an attempt to steal cats? For the sensors to function properly, exhaust has to be completely sealed, holes in it will redirect exhaust gasses from sensors, causing them to not function.

The fact that the monitor is not set does not mean there is an issue, it means there hasn't been a chance to set it yet. Monitors require you to follow a specific driving pattern to get the ECU to question systems and set monitors, if the car is stationary, monitors most likely won't set.

Instead of looking at Monitors, check your Engine Live Data and see if the voltage output is indeed below threshold, and if it is fluctuating or completely solid. For the Bank 1 Sensor 2, the voltage has to fluctuate a bit, higher the amplitude, the worse the catalyst is performing, P0420 will appear after a certain threshold, if the voltage is stuck at 0 or 0.8V, there may be a wiring issue. If the voltage is fluctuating from about 0.4V to 0.6V, then the system is performing normally.



Hope this helps and best of luck!