FIXED: P0171, P0325, P0330 (es300)
10-01-22, 04:22 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
FIXED: P0171, P0325, P0330 (es300)
so happy. I was getting pissed off because I had just replaced the suspension and added a new sub. Those problems have been plaguing me and it came at a really busy time in my life.
It was really weird, after I passed a smog check with flying colors, a few days later all those problems popped up after a hard acceleration. I even began to think that the smog tech did something to my car.
For reference:
P0171 : bank 1 too lean
P0325 : bank 1 Knock sensor
P0330 : bank 2 Knock sensor
I was really busy so I decided to just throw parts at it. First I tried the fix the too lean and I read it's probably a bad O2 sensor. So i bought a denso O2 sensor from rockauto. Code still pops up. I started regretting being cheap because maybe it's a bad (new) part.
Then I started thinking.. well maybe it's a bad fuel pressure damper, I had recently replaced the stock one because it was leaking. I used a rock auto part. So I ordered a new one from lexuspartsnow. And of course the code still pops up.
So I said ok forget that.. I'll try and fix the knock sensor problem and maybe that one will go away. Didn't want to overspend so I decided to fix only what I need to. I finally have more time at this point. I replace the sensor wires with lexus parts. No good, both banks still knocking.
Order one lexus knock sensor because bank 1 rarely showed up. Replaced bank 2, and that fixed it... but now Bank 1 knocking showed up.
Also did some research and the bank 1 too lean could be caused by a dirty MAF sensor. For a long time, that didn't make sense to me because if it's a bad sensor... wouldn't that affect both the banks? since the MAF sensor is sensing the air flow for both banks.. anyways I watched a youtube video on how to clean it. Pretty simple, just spray some carb cleaner and maybe scrape the wire thing gently with a flat head. I went and bought a used one off ebay just in case I destroy it. Didn't drive it and check if it's fixed.. but I was pretty confident I had fixed it because it really was dirty.
I decided to go cheap on the the next knock sensor because I also want to do a test, to see which one will last longer--and how much longer. I have owned the car for three years and the knocking issue only showed up now.. so for a $60 WVE knock sensor to last for 3 years seemed okay to me. It's only 2 hours labor, Ive become really good at getting to it.
Drove it for more than an hour today and it's all gravy. Usually the codes would pop up within 5-10 minutes and the computer will into limp home mode. So I think I did it boys.
It was really weird, after I passed a smog check with flying colors, a few days later all those problems popped up after a hard acceleration. I even began to think that the smog tech did something to my car.
For reference:
P0171 : bank 1 too lean
P0325 : bank 1 Knock sensor
P0330 : bank 2 Knock sensor
I was really busy so I decided to just throw parts at it. First I tried the fix the too lean and I read it's probably a bad O2 sensor. So i bought a denso O2 sensor from rockauto. Code still pops up. I started regretting being cheap because maybe it's a bad (new) part.
Then I started thinking.. well maybe it's a bad fuel pressure damper, I had recently replaced the stock one because it was leaking. I used a rock auto part. So I ordered a new one from lexuspartsnow. And of course the code still pops up.
So I said ok forget that.. I'll try and fix the knock sensor problem and maybe that one will go away. Didn't want to overspend so I decided to fix only what I need to. I finally have more time at this point. I replace the sensor wires with lexus parts. No good, both banks still knocking.
Order one lexus knock sensor because bank 1 rarely showed up. Replaced bank 2, and that fixed it... but now Bank 1 knocking showed up.
Also did some research and the bank 1 too lean could be caused by a dirty MAF sensor. For a long time, that didn't make sense to me because if it's a bad sensor... wouldn't that affect both the banks? since the MAF sensor is sensing the air flow for both banks.. anyways I watched a youtube video on how to clean it. Pretty simple, just spray some carb cleaner and maybe scrape the wire thing gently with a flat head. I went and bought a used one off ebay just in case I destroy it. Didn't drive it and check if it's fixed.. but I was pretty confident I had fixed it because it really was dirty.
I decided to go cheap on the the next knock sensor because I also want to do a test, to see which one will last longer--and how much longer. I have owned the car for three years and the knocking issue only showed up now.. so for a $60 WVE knock sensor to last for 3 years seemed okay to me. It's only 2 hours labor, Ive become really good at getting to it.
Drove it for more than an hour today and it's all gravy. Usually the codes would pop up within 5-10 minutes and the computer will into limp home mode. So I think I did it boys.
10-01-22, 06:27 PM
#2
Pole Position
Hello,
P0325 and P0330 codes don't indicate that the engine is necessarily knocking, they mean an electrical circuit malfunction, if there is a short or open in the system. Engine knock is something that can destroy any engine, even Toyota one, in a matter of minutes, it's when the mixture basically ignites a lot earlier than it is supposed to, sending a shock wave into the piston, that is at the moment traveling towards that wave at a considerable speed. Here you can learn more about it
Any engine is designed to do its darnedest to prevent the knocking at all costs, and that's where those sensors come in. If they are not working, the Fail-Safe function of the ECU is to set the Ignition Timing to constant 0, instead of 5 degrees at idle and closer to 25-ish at about 3,000 RPM, which can very well result in the Lean Mixture issue you had parallel to all the Knock Sensor codes.
Woooow, do not ever do that to a MAF sensor, a guaranteed way of wrecking it for sure. The heated wire in the sensor is extremely delicate, never touch it with anything, let alone a screwdriver, scratching or bending the element will wreck the factory calibration, making the engine run worse without letting anyone know. Carb cleaner was never designed to clean those wires either, it is not that quick to dry and leaves a film behind, which can make things even worse. There are specialized products designed to clean MAF sensors, like this one for example, they are very quick to evaporate and don't leave anything behind.
Huh, those are pretty delicate components, it will be interesting to see how those WVE sensors will hold up..
In any case, glad you got your issues sorted!
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Any engine is designed to do its darnedest to prevent the knocking at all costs, and that's where those sensors come in. If they are not working, the Fail-Safe function of the ECU is to set the Ignition Timing to constant 0, instead of 5 degrees at idle and closer to 25-ish at about 3,000 RPM, which can very well result in the Lean Mixture issue you had parallel to all the Knock Sensor codes.
anyways I watched a youtube video on how to clean it. Pretty simple, just spray some carb cleaner and maybe scrape the wire thing gently with a flat head. I went and bought a used one off ebay just in case I destroy it. Didn't drive it and check if it's fixed.. but I was pretty confident I had fixed it because it really was dirty.
I decided to go cheap on the the next knock sensor because I also want to do a test, to see which one will last longer--and how much longer. I have owned the car for three years and the knocking issue only showed up now.. so for a $60 WVE knock sensor to last for 3 years seemed okay to me. It's only 2 hours labor, Ive become really good at getting to it.
In any case, glad you got your issues sorted!
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Last edited by Arsenii; 10-01-22 at 06:31 PM.
10-02-22, 10:05 AM
#3
Rookie
Thread Starter
Woooow, do not ever do that to a MAF sensor, a guaranteed way of wrecking it for sure. The heated wire in the sensor is extremely delicate, never touch it with anything, let alone a screwdriver, scratching or bending the element will wreck the factory calibration, making the engine run worse without letting anyone know. Carb cleaner was never designed to clean those wires either, it is not that quick to dry and leaves a film behind, which can make things even worse. There are specialized products designed to clean MAF sensors, like this one for example, they are very quick to evaporate and don't leave anything behind.
!
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