Terix

Hello,

I recently bought a 2006 ES330 with 160k miles on the clock and with me, she has added about 10k (more) miles.

Right after I got her, I noticed that the AC wasn't cooling optimally. A shop detected that the condenser was blocked and changed, everything worked excellently as it should again. She was charged with a refrigerant that contained leak-sealing properties, just in case.

Turned out that was a wise decision: I discovered a leak around the lower pressure hose, leading out of the compressor. However, I wanted the refrigerant discharged before the leak would be sorted.

Now, 3 years and 10k miles after, warm air has taken over the AC vents and I believe it is now or never. The curious thing however is this: I discovered that, right after the refrigerant fizzled out, instead of condensate coming out of the evap drain (understandable if nothing came out with the AC on), green compressor oil is what has taken its place and made a puddle on the driveway (strange).

The AC worked and cooled optimally right to the end of the refrigerant's complete discharge. Is there something else I should be worried about beyond the low-pressure line's obvious leak? The evap drain never had anything come out through it all through my time with the vehicle except condensate.

All and every tip, pointer, or help will be appreciated.

- Terix.

LeX2K

First up, leak seal should never be used in an A/C system it usually ends up causing problems. Your problem is not complicated you have a leak sounds to me like the shop didn't do their job properly.

Terix

Thanks for validating my thoughts and providing a quick 'second opinion'. It appears I'll create time, roll up my sleeves and fix this issue myself, this time around.

Anything special I need to know? Some especially complex or sensitive piece that needs to be handled with extra care, for instance.

Regarding the compressor oil leak through the evap drain: any thoughts why it happened only after the refrigerant was expended? I've thought long and hard and have scoured the entire internet for leads...none exists.

Finally, my choice of refrigerant is a special blend made for older AC systems and comes formulated with stop-leak additives and compressor oil. Never had a problem with it.

- Terix

LeX2K

Pressure can actually slow down a leak since it puts pressure on O-rings and seats them into the fittings. But once the charge drops enough it leaks out quickly. At least that's my theory since I've seen the same thing, slow leak then at some point all leaked out in a few hours.

Compressor oil leaking out the evaporator is odd I'm wondering if what you're seeing is the leak seal additive. If you replace all the O-rings there is no reason to have a leak seal product. Disclaimer: I have less experience on A/C systems vs. other aspects so my advice may be not the best.

I have seen evap cores outright leak (not the O-rings) that may have happened in your case. Probably a good idea to pick up a new Denso unit. For safety, outside of the high pressure of a charged system (especially after heavy use) there isn't anything especially dangerous you're dealing with.

edit - forgot to mention the expansion valve, you probably know more about this than me some say always replace it. Looks to be about $85 online probably not a bad idea.

88515-28160

Terix

Thanks for the pointers. All points noted and sincerely appreciated.

About what the fluid leaking through the evap drain could be: I completely forgot that the refrigerant used has leak sealing properties; unfortunately, it is difficult to determine what the color could be, given that compressor oil is also part of the can's content and can easily influence the color of everything else. The puddle on the ground was a tint of light green, typically what compressor oil looks like. However, it all makes sense now, looked at from that angle.

Finally, using a product with leak-sealing properties is a sort of 'insurance' for me. Take for instance: when the shop replaced the condenser, vacuumed, and charged the system, everything was perfect. However, a few months after the job, I noticed a wet low-pressure hose, indicating a leak (this leak wasn't present at the time of the job as I was there and carefully took note of the gauge readings). Typical refrigerant would have leaked out in a week or less. With this option? It took 10k miles and 3 years - enough time to save up for replacement parts.

Thanks again. You have been truly helpful.

- Terix.

LeX2K

Friend of mine has an old Camry I told them many times, run the A/C during the winter if you don't all the refrigerant will eventually leak out. They didn't listen and guess what happened, shame because it was R12 the equivalent is not as effective. Not sure exactly why it helps to use the A/C I guess it makes sure everything rubber has compressor oil on it. I have a car that is 33 years old still has the original R12 I make sure to run the air conditioning on a regular basis.

Terix

UPDATE:

I decided to go DIY on this and changed the suction line and charged things up, at home. AC has been cooling optimally since then.

Thanks, LeX2K for the pointers and guide. I sincerely appreciate your input.