Wheel Bearing / Hub / Knuckle Assembly Replacement
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Wheel Bearing / Hub / Knuckle Assembly Replacement
Anyone have a guide or video walk through on replacing the entire assembly? (not just the bearing or individual components)
I found the part below that comes as one unit, I found that to be possibly the easiest method for me to do it myself.
I travel a highway daily for work and there is a long curved section and I hear a warping noise when taking this curve each day and when braking. I have replaced rotors and pads, as well as new tires. I think that this is the next replacement based on what I have already researched on this site.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...assembly,10923
I found the part below that comes as one unit, I found that to be possibly the easiest method for me to do it myself.
I travel a highway daily for work and there is a long curved section and I hear a warping noise when taking this curve each day and when braking. I have replaced rotors and pads, as well as new tires. I think that this is the next replacement based on what I have already researched on this site.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...assembly,10923
#2
Moderator
Try looking at the Car Care Nut Channel on youtube. He is a Toyota Master Tech with many videos explaining various repairs. Note that this assembly is about the same on many Toyota and Lexus vehicles of the same or close model years such as Camry, Highlander, Sienna, RAV4.
Toyota Nation has some threads with tips under the Camry forum if you search around
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads.../#post-3687292
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads.../#post-1627092
Toyota Nation has some threads with tips under the Camry forum if you search around
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads.../#post-3687292
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads.../#post-1627092
Last edited by Clutchless; 04-21-23 at 06:21 AM.
#3
You need the press to do this job.
Last edited by ESh; 04-23-23 at 01:22 PM.
#4
No press needed. He gets the hub and knuckle as one unit. Wish this was available when I did the wheel bearing on our ES. This makes it a lot easier, but you pay for it. These average $200 vs $40 for a bearing, but you need less tools to do the job, and big time time saver. You need to get a new alignment afterwards, but easy peasy! I would replace the ball joint while you are there.
Remove CV nut; disconnect tie rod and sway bar; remove ball joint; unbolt the knuckle.
Remove CV nut; disconnect tie rod and sway bar; remove ball joint; unbolt the knuckle.
#5
If he gets the whole unit then the press is not needed, but why spend all that money when he can get the bearing alone for cheap?
Part number: 90369-45003
Part number: 90369-45003
#6
Time saver and dude may not have a press, and saves money not taking the parts to a garage to press them. BTW, I didn’t use a press to replace my wheel bearing. I used a five lb sledgehammer to hammer out the hub; didn’t really take much force. And since the knuckle stayed bolted to the car, I didn't need to get an alignment. Despite this, I would still seriously consider getting the preassembled parts. My biggest concern is the metal quality of the parts, probable Chinese metal.
#7
That is what I was thinking. I don’t believe the knuckle is strong as the OEM.
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#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
After jacking the car up and taking a look around this is what I have found to be some issues I think that the CV Axel is in need of replacement. And in the second photo I think its the shock/strut that also needs replacement the boot covering the metal shaft is now exposed.
These are the parts I plan to use as replacements, any thoughts or suggestions?
Strut/shock
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=15174&jsn=867
CV Axel
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2288&jsn=797
These are the parts I plan to use as replacements, any thoughts or suggestions?
Strut/shock
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=15174&jsn=867
CV Axel
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2288&jsn=797
#9
I say the strut is ok as the boot does not hold grease inside like the CV boot does. If the strut is not leaking and the ride is not compromised, I would repair the boot if possible. The CV I would replace if it has over 100K. If less and it does not vibrate, Lexus sells a CV boot kit. The Care Nut dude has a video on replacing it.
#10
Agree with that.
You replace only the rubber (plus the bumper for the shock) on both cases.
You replace only the rubber (plus the bumper for the shock) on both cases.
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
When replacing the CV axle, once you take out the old one and you insert the new one before connecting the bolt and spring clip. How do you know its properly seated? The videos I have seen, its just inserted until it cannot go any further and the bolt is put back in and the clip attached.
#12
Check the distance between the tranny and the old, it should ne pretty close, 2-3 mm.
#13
I have a question on the rubber boot, Mine is also torn but no leakage from the strut but I want to replace the torn boot. How can I do that without removing the strut? Is there any universal boot that can be used to cover like a CV split boot that can be glued? I tried to search but could not find it. I want to prevent from dust and mud sticking to the strut's inner seals and rod. Thanks
#14
You can't replace it without removing the shock. It is not an easy job.
#15
Moderator
sub786 - it is not worth the cost to repair the rubber boot on an old strut. How old is it anyway? Do you know? Is it original? If original it may say Toyota or Tokico on it.
Just keep driving it the way it is if the car is okay to drive. It could be years before there is any damage related to the missing boot. Save you money for when you need new struts or a new car.
Just keep driving it the way it is if the car is okay to drive. It could be years before there is any damage related to the missing boot. Save you money for when you need new struts or a new car.