2008 ES wont start after checking all fuses
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I had my car interior detailed and exterior washed and received it back with a CEL outline light and VSC lights on that were not on when it was dropped off. There may have been more. I also noticed that the car would start without pressing on the brake which was unusual. I drove it around for a day and then I pulled all the fuses, in both fuse boxes, one by one to check but found none were blown. I cannot be sure I got them all back in the incorrect slots. I am particularly worried about the "short" fuse. Is there a chart I can use to check what is supposed to be in each fuse slot? It's difficult to get into a position to check them in the drivers leg well. Also looks like there is a defroster relay block not being used in the engine electrical box for some reason. Is that normal? Pressing on the brake turns the start switch from orange to LED green. The cluster lights for VST and Battery come on, steering wheel lowers into position, but there is no starter engagement.
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Wait, first you were able to turn the engine even without pressing the brake pedal and now you can’t?
On the fuse cover you can see which fuse should go where. You will see the amperage number (5A, 10A…).
On the fuse cover you can see which fuse should go where. You will see the amperage number (5A, 10A…).
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Thats correct. Got it back from the car wash and I didn't need to press the brake to start anymore. That was odd. Never did that before. Then, after pulling all the fuses and replacing them, it would not engage the starter at all. No clicking no nothing. I get a green light on the start button when pressing the brake and orange without pressing it. Which fuse block should I be looking at, interior or engine? Also, could I have damaged the "Short" that looks like a fuse and could that cause this problem? the Battery notification light is on.
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First of all, check all the fuses again and put them in the right place.
The fuses and relays under the hood control the startability.
Also, there’s a possibility that the worker damaged the brake switch. Does your brake lights work?
The fuses and relays under the hood control the startability.
Also, there’s a possibility that the worker damaged the brake switch. Does your brake lights work?
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That had occurred to me but the fact that the start switch changes from orange to green as well as the brake lights still work, pretty much validates the brake switch circuit I think.
While lying on my back upside down on the front seat with my head under the dash without my glasses I missed putting interior fuse #10 back in the correct location as there is an empty slot next to it. Who-da-thought? So I re-positioned the fuse and the car starts again! I'll have to do some testing on holding the brake when my son returns from ACE. His car dropped a window register and he's off for a metric bolt that stripped out being removed. The cluster "battery" light is still on. So there is still that...It's just really a relief to have it drivable with having another car down.
While lying on my back upside down on the front seat with my head under the dash without my glasses I missed putting interior fuse #10 back in the correct location as there is an empty slot next to it. Who-da-thought? So I re-positioned the fuse and the car starts again! I'll have to do some testing on holding the brake when my son returns from ACE. His car dropped a window register and he's off for a metric bolt that stripped out being removed. The cluster "battery" light is still on. So there is still that...It's just really a relief to have it drivable with having another car down.
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What the guy did to the car when detailing the interior? Did he remove the plastics under the steering wheel? Carpet?
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I had my car interior detailed and exterior washed and received it back with a CEL outline light and VSC lights on that were not on when it was dropped off. There may have been more. I also noticed that the car would start without pressing on the brake which was unusual. I drove it around for a day and then I pulled all the fuses, in both fuse boxes, one by one to check but found none were blown. I cannot be sure I got them all back in the incorrect slots. I am particularly worried about the "short" fuse. Is there a chart I can use to check what is supposed to be in each fuse slot? It's difficult to get into a position to check them in the drivers leg well. Also looks like there is a defroster relay block not being used in the engine electrical box for some reason. Is that normal? Pressing on the brake turns the start switch from orange to LED green. The cluster lights for VST and Battery come on, steering wheel lowers into position, but there is no starter engagement.
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